MN sticking problem, I'm at a loss on what to do.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - MN sticking problem, I'm at a loss on what to do.

Posted: 8/1/2005 11:07:47 AM EDT

It seems I haven't been able to fix either my M91/30 or my M38's problems of the bolt sticking after firing most rounds. I know about the dried cosmoline problem, and I have ground out the chambers with solvent and bronze brushes as best as I think could be done. I've looked at the chambers with the light and they seem spotless.

It also seems to be partially an ammo issue, with the worst being czech. But even Wolf sticks most of the time too. Brown Bear so far seems to be the smoothest, but it again sometimes sticks.

Is it a headspace issue? Maybe the shell is expanding ever so slightly and getting stuck in both chambers?

any help or other things I can do would be appreciated.

-mark

Posted: 8/1/2005 1:43:57 PM EDT

[#1]

Try some brass cased ammo.

Dennis Jenkins

quote]Quoted:
It seems I haven't been able to fix either my M91/30 or my M38's problems of the bolt sticking after firing most rounds. I know about the dried cosmoline problem, and I have ground out the chambers with solvent and bronze brushes as best as I think could be done. I've looked at the chambers with the light and they seem spotless.

It also seems to be partially an ammo issue, with the worst being czech. But even Wolf sticks most of the time too. Brown Bear so far seems to be the smoothest, but it again sometimes sticks.

Is it a headspace issue? Maybe the shell is expanding ever so slightly and getting stuck in both chambers?

any help or other things I can do would be appreciated.

-mark

Posted: 8/1/2005 4:58:06 PM EDT

[#2]

+1 on try the brass cased ammo.

I like the Albanian myself. My M44s M91/30 and Finn M39 love the brass cased Albanian. I have a whole case of Czech steel hull that I'm just going to use as a last resort.

Posted: 8/2/2005 8:51:46 AM EDT

[#3]

just out of curiosity, why would brass cased ammo be better? I use wolf and it sticks just as bad, thought it was mostly a brass case.

-mark

Posted: 8/2/2005 11:05:14 AM EDT

[#4]

How about NOT using lacquered case ammo?

Dennis Jenkins

Quoted:
just out of curiosity, why would brass cased ammo be better? I use wolf and it sticks just as bad, thought it was mostly a brass case.

-mark

Posted: 8/2/2005 1:38:16 PM EDT

[#5]

These rifles should be checked out by a smith. If bolt lug raceway setback has occured the bolt lugs may have "peened" recesses in the lug locking raceway so that with each shot the lugs get hammered back into the recesses. This causes the handle to be hard to lift or a sticking feeling. If this has happened then those receivers are toast and should only be used for wall hangers as there is no way that I know of that will fix those receivers. Also if this has happened very likely the headspace will be way out.

Posted: 8/3/2005 1:44:24 PM EDT

[#6]

thanks for the tips BBore.

I think I've pretty much given up shooting milsurps anyway, they're just not as fun as an AR15, or SKS/AK.

I only have one that I will shoot the hell out of till I die, my smooth as can be K31

, couldn't be happier with that, now if wolf would just..............

Posted: 8/3/2005 3:49:37 PM EDT

[#7]

Brass is better becasue it is softer and tends to return to it's original shape after firing. The steel cased bullets tend to expand and hold their size thus sticking in the chamber a bit more. Barnaul sticks in the chamber of my '03 Springfield Mark I. I would go out and buy some Sellier and Bellot and see if that sticks. It has brass casings. Of all the milsurp ammo, I have had best results with with Albanian ammo.

You may want to try a 20 guage shotgun brush attached to a drill and use it to really scrub the chanber. Some people have reported success doing this. Two sites with really good information on these rifles are: http://7.62x54r.net/ and http://www.mosinnagant.net/

Two good forums are found at http://www.gunboards.com/forums/ and http://pub113.ezboard.com/bparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums

I hope this helps.

Posted: 8/3/2005 4:20:33 PM EDT

[#8]

i've had your problem happen to a couple of my guns.
i got some scotchbrite, cut a piece to fit into a shotgun patch holder, and chucked it with a single length of cleaning rod into a drill. i hit the chamber just like when you hone a cylinder, but i didn't do it for too long, just long enough to polish it up a bit.
the problem disappeared and hasn't returned.
just a mention.

Posted: 8/3/2005 7:12:54 PM EDT

[#9]

Quoted:
i've had your problem happen to a couple of my guns.
i got some scotchbrite, cut a piece to fit into a shotgun patch holder, and chucked it with a single length of cleaning rod into a drill. i hit the chamber just like when you hone a cylinder, but i didn't do it for too long, just long enough to polish it up a bit.
the problem disappeared and hasn't returned.
just a mention.

where do you get scotchbrite? is it like steelwool?

Posted: 8/4/2005 3:32:41 AM EDT

[#10]

Scotchbrite pads are available in supermarkets and hardware stores.

Posted: 8/4/2005 5:34:45 AM EDT

[#11]

Quoted:
Scotchbrite pads are available in supermarkets and hardware stores.

should I soak the chamber with something? like hoppe's solvent? before I start grinding.

Another question.

Why do Aks eat this stuff like nothing?

Even my AR shoots Wolf .223 without a hitch.

Posted: 8/4/2005 7:03:23 AM EDT

[#12]

AKs have tapered rounds. Chromed chambers help a lot.

Posted: 8/4/2005 7:27:01 AM EDT

[#13]

The reason you get away with it in you AR is surface area. in contact with the chamber. The 7.62x54r cartridge had a lot more surface area. Putting a little Hoppes or other cleaning solvent is not a bad idea. Many people just use a 20 guage brush.

Posted: 8/4/2005 12:10:19 PM EDT

[#14]

Quoted:
The reason you get away with it in you AR is surface area. in contact with the chamber. The 7.62x54r cartridge had a lot more surface area. Putting a little Hoppes or other cleaning solvent is not a bad idea. Many people just use a 20 guage brush.

yeah but I thought you had to soak the area to break up any remaining cosmoline.

Also, shot my RC K98 the other day as a test with new production winchester 8mm, surprise surprise, smooth as a (insert whatever you'd like). But still who wants to pay $20 a box for shooting these rifles? I'm just frustrated. Did Russian or German soldiers have these problems?

But I guess if I want to fix my Mosin itch for a reliable shooter, I need to pick up an unissued M44, I'm sure that would solve the sticking problems. I just really love these bolt action rifles, if they work smoothly, but haven't been successful yet in finding one that isn't a PITA. The Swiss is the best, and I can't shoot that enough, but would like something else.

Anyone have any feedback on these unissued M44s that everyone sold at one time, I think my local gun store might still have them, they were in paper and soaked in grease for $100, worth it to me.

-mark

Posted: 8/4/2005 2:24:47 PM EDT

[#15]

Quoted:
Quoted:
The reason you get away with it in you AR is surface area. in contact with the chamber. The 7.62x54r cartridge had a lot more surface area. Putting a little Hoppes or other cleaning solvent is not a bad idea. Many people just use a 20 guage brush.

yeah but I thought you had to soak the area to break up any remaining cosmoline.

Also, shot my RC K98 the other day as a test with new production winchester 8mm, surprise surprise, smooth as a (insert whatever you'd like). But still who wants to pay $20 a box for shooting these rifles? I'm just frustrated. Did Russian or German soldiers have these problems?

But I guess if I want to fix my Mosin itch for a reliable shooter, I need to pick up an unissued M44, I'm sure that would solve the sticking problems. I just really love these bolt action rifles, if they work smoothly, but haven't been successful yet in finding one that isn't a PITA. The Swiss is the best, and I can't shoot that enough, but would like something else.

Anyone have any feedback on these unissued M44s that everyone sold at one time, I think my local gun store might still have them, they were in paper and soaked in grease for $100, worth it to me.

-mark

The M44 is a fine gun on the cheap, but if I had my bucks back I'd go with a '38. The bayonet serves no purpose but to make the gun more unweildy. As for whether the original users had issues, the answer is YES!

I ended up with a case or three of the Czech 60's production. Before I could shoot the stuff I heard about all these sticking bolt handles, so I dropped a rubber mallot into the range bag just in case. Have never used it once. Just depends on the gun I guess.

Posted: 8/5/2005 2:40:23 AM EDT

[#16]

I have an M38 and a MN91/59. Great little rifles with one heck of a fireball as the milsurp ammo has no flash supressant in it. The M38's can be rough. These were heavily used, but many are still goo shooters. The 91/59's were arsenal refurbs of older guns in shich the barrels were shortened to the length of the M38 's and M44's. The triggers were reworked and after being completed, never issued to anyboady as far as most people can tell. Mine is in great shape and shoots great.

These are great rifles and the Finnish rewoorked versions are even better. My two Finnish M39's shoot as well as any Mauser of '03 Springfield made.

Posted: 8/8/2005 8:37:31 AM EDT

[#17]

I have an unissued M44 and I've never had a round stick. I've used 203gr SP Silver Bears, 147gr silvertip milsurp, and 174gr yellowtip milsurp. All steel cased.

Also, I would reccomend an Enfeild No.4 if you want a good, accurate milsurp bolt action. With it's extremely tapered, always brass cased .303 ammo, I really doubt you'll have a bolt stick!

Posted: 8/8/2005 11:14:44 AM EDT

[#18]

I had a sticky bolt on my M44 and 91/30.

I thought I got all the cosmo out. Scrubbed and soaked and everything looked good.

Still had a sticky bolt.

Hit the reciver with a heat gun to loosen any old cosmo, put some 0000 steel wool on the end of a bronze brush, attached it to my drill and gave it a spin.

No more sticky bolts. You would be amazed how resistant old cosmo can be to cleaning solvents.

Av.

Posted: 8/8/2005 6:44:34 PM EDT

[#19]

You also just might want to try polishing the bolt camways. I have one of the 44s that came in the wrap. Overall it appeared new, but I had the sticky bolt issue too. Polishing the cam smoothed up the action noticably & haven't had a "sticking" issue since.

Posted: 8/11/2005 5:58:53 AM EDT

[#20]

Quoted:
You also just might want to try polishing the bolt camways. I have one of the 44s that came in the wrap. Overall it appeared new, but I had the sticky bolt issue too. Polishing the cam smoothed up the action noticably & haven't had a "sticking" issue since.

1. What's the camways?

2. Whoever recommended scotch guard to me, I bought a pack of thin scotchguard pads, now how do I put those things in the chamber and start grinding?

thanks.

-mm

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - MN sticking problem, I'm at a loss on what to do.

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