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Posted: 12/28/2005 8:37:32 PM EDT
I am finally starting to upgrade my bone stock 10/22.....   I am putting in an extended mag release, and a bolt catch that will allow me to just pull th ebolt back to release it.

I want a lighter trigger, but don't wish to pony up all the money for an aftermarket set. Is there any site out there that shows how to lighten up th estock trigger, or at least make it smoother with less "felt" weight.


I am kind of poor after settign aside funds for a new barrel and stock (going Heavy barrel) and I also need new optics instead of the cheap 3-7 power Bushnell rimfire scope that I have been using for years on various rifles.



any help on the trigger issues?


thank y'all very much
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 10:56:31 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 12/29/2005 1:02:56 AM EDT
[#2]
Buy a VQ hammer for $35.  Just swap it out with your factory hammer.

You'll feel the difference the first time you pull the trigger.  Mine is pretty light, and thats all I've done with it.  It's around a 2.5lb pull weight.  I barely put any pressure on it, and it breaks.  VERY nice.

go to hawktecharms.com and order one.
$35 and free shipping too.  GREAT place to order from, and very fast too!    
Link Posted: 12/29/2005 6:27:18 AM EDT
[#3]
WeaponKraft is another great place to buy aftermarket parts. A bolt buffer is a mist also.
Link Posted: 12/29/2005 8:27:54 AM EDT
[#4]
+1 on a hammer replacement.  Cheap.  EASY.  2.5lb pull just by replacing the hammer.  If you polish the remaning stock parts, WATCH OUT cuz it will kick ass.

$0.02
Link Posted: 12/29/2005 9:14:47 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
I am finally starting to upgrade my bone stock 10/22.....   I am putting in an extended mag release, and a bolt catch that will allow me to just pull the bolt back to release it.



You can just Dremel or file your existing bolt catch/release to do the same thing.  Search online for a photo of one, and see what you need to modify.  Hell, I'll search and post a picture for you....
Link Posted: 12/29/2005 9:16:31 AM EDT
[#6]
More pics:

Link Posted: 12/29/2005 7:35:08 PM EDT
[#7]
Thanks guys!


looks like i have alot to go with right now, any suggestions on Barrels, I heard Butler Creek are nto the way to go?  Anythign of decent quality for a *similar* price?
Link Posted: 12/29/2005 8:28:52 PM EDT
[#8]
buttler creek is ok just don't get carbon fiber, they are junk. adams & bennett makes a blued bull for a/b $89 or less. it's the best for the money. green mountain also makes a decent barrel.
Link Posted: 12/29/2005 11:18:57 PM EDT
[#9]
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 5:31:23 AM EDT
[#10]
vq hammer
weaponkraft buffer
dremel bolt release


gtg!
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 7:57:27 AM EDT
[#11]
Penguin. go to www.staffordsales.com and check out the bull barrels. He's a great guy, and doin business with him is great. i got a GM fluted blued bull for 104 bux there. also, the first reply on your post sent you a place where it shows how to polish the internals. i did this last night, and it is great. I am only 16, so if i can do it, you can too. It took away all but a few ten thousanths of take-up. if you go to www.hawktecharms.com, you'll see some hammers. i have skeeters adjustable hammer, and i love it!! just get a VQ hammer to start out with..here's what i'm going to suggest to you: GET THE BARREL AND STOCK LAST! DO TRIGGER WORK FIRST!!!

VQ hammer (or power custom or skeeter adjustable)
weaponkraft buffer
do the JB weld trick, CLICK HERE
polish your trigger internals and your bolt assembly
then, get a green mountain bull barrel. best barrel for the money, hands down..hope this helps

after all these inexpensive mods, you will have a smooth action and a better shooting gun. I have done alot more to my gun, and am doing more next week, but i only listed those because it's cheap and you wanted the cheapest
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 10:00:13 AM EDT
[#12]
Thanks Beretta, you are right on cheap being good, I have a fmaily so at this juncture of time I have no money

I figured the 10/22 would be the cehapest toy to play with and upgrade for themoney.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 10:32:06 AM EDT
[#13]
i started to polish some spare parts i had for a second 10/22 i plan on building up.

heres a really good cheap trick and good one too.

what i did was chamfer/radius the lower rear portion of the bolt to allow easier setting of the hammer. then i polished it at the work place till i could see myself in it. the thing is smooth as butter! plan on working on my trigger group next.


link to thread about it at rimfirecentral.com




Link Posted: 12/30/2005 12:46:35 PM EDT
[#14]
+1 on the hammer replacement.  Best money spent.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 2:11:24 PM EDT
[#15]
another +1 for the vq hammer replacement.  if you get it from stafford sales--www.staffordsales.com-- he'll throw in the auto bolt release free.  be sure to use the original springs w/ the new hammer, i.e. just replace the hammer (not the new springs that come w/ it).
well worth the $37.50.
while you are at it spring for the vq exact edge extractor ($12.50).  another must have addon for the 10/22.
now you are ready to really enjoy your 10/22.

earlybirdnj
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 11:50:07 AM EDT
[#16]

Quoted:
You can just Dremel or file your existing bolt catch/release to do the same thing.  Search online for a photo of one, and see what you need to modify.  Hell, I'll search and post a picture for you....
www.rimfiresports.com/graphics/00000001/10-22boltrel.jpg




Quoted:
what i did was chamfer/radius the lower rear portion of the bolt to allow easier setting of the hammer. then i polished it at the work place till i could see myself in it. the thing is smooth as butter! plan on working on my trigger group next.

link to thread about it at rimfirecentral.com

img.photobucket.com/albums/v629/eklikewhoa/ruger%20ten-twentytwo/IMG_0633.jpg



Wow, great info guys.  I got my Volq hammer in today and with these other mods, my little Ruger is nice.   After 15+ years of shooting 10/22s, I never thought about changing anything on it.  I'm going to take it out this weekend to burn up some ammo!
Link Posted: 1/9/2006 4:46:39 PM EDT
[#17]
Go to Midway and order their Power custom sear and hammer kit and follow the instructions that come with the kit. Cost is less than 50 bucks.Most gunsmiths charge way more and very few can do any better
Link Posted: 1/10/2006 2:05:01 PM EDT
[#18]
i just polished my vq hammer and the hammer strut, the action is now smooth as butter!
Link Posted: 2/5/2006 6:10:10 PM EDT
[#19]
Ok, I slapped in the new parts, as well as started the polishing of the bolt, and will be doing the JB weld trick this week. What shoudl I look for in barrels?  Today i was looking at soem Butler Creek Bull Barrels, stainless and not, as well as fluted and not. I have been warned against the carbon fiber butlers... what shoudl I look for in the others, they are pricy enough I don't want to just drop money on them until i find oen I like. What has worked for y'all?
Link Posted: 2/5/2006 8:08:52 PM EDT
[#20]
green mountain bbls. have a strong following, i myself got a good deal on a 20"ss fluted butler creek and it loves federal champions.


check out hornetproducts.com for gm bbls.
Link Posted: 2/16/2006 6:06:53 PM EDT
[#21]
ugh.....



My bolt hold open is not working correctly, it is Volquartsen of course. If I leave the factory mag release in it works as it should, if I put in my extended mag release it works like a factory original bolt stop (meaning I have to manually release it) and the new extended mag release works as it is intended to do (witht he original bolt catch and the new one), I can not see why it is not working, and am thinking I got a cheaper mag release. The mag release I have is made of molded plastic and looks kind of chintzy, the bolt release looks better than factory original.



does anyoen have the link to the extended mag release I should have bought?
Link Posted: 2/17/2006 4:01:54 AM EDT
[#22]
go to hornetproducts.com or hawktecharms.com and get either the vq or pc


did you check and make sure you had the spring leg on correct?
Link Posted: 2/17/2006 4:44:31 AM EDT
[#23]
I have a plastic mag release and it was binding on the bolt release.  I had to dremel a bit off to get it to work properly.
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