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User Panel
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Posted: 9/10/2013 7:45:21 AM EDT
[#1]
As well as any spray paint will, which is always not that great.
They're called piss cans for a reason. ETA: I find Krylon and Dupli-Color to be two of the better spray cans out there. |
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Posted: 9/10/2013 8:31:56 PM EDT
[#2]
I think it depends on your prep job as to how well it works.
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Posted: 9/10/2013 9:08:14 PM EDT
[#3]
Look in to the high temp engine enamel paint that needs to be baked on.
Good metal prep, high temp metal primer, engine paint then bake it might get you further than krylon. |
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Posted: 9/11/2013 1:52:31 AM EDT
[#4]
I've used ceramic header paint (flat black) that has to be baked/cured after it dries. Its tough.
I need to do my 11-87 but haven't gotten around to it. In order to bake the parts after painting you need to disassemble the gun and remove the springs or any parts that might melt. The FAL we did had upwards of 600 to 800 rounds through it before we stopped shooting it (my son wanted an M1A so the FAL went to pasture in the safe - but it looks great.) |
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Posted: 9/11/2013 6:02:48 AM EDT
[#5]
If you are baking it the Moly resin stuff from Brownells is pretty cheap.
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Posted: 9/11/2013 8:15:02 AM EDT
[#6]
I used a can of Krylon on my sons beater 500. looks great. if it flakes off blast it again..
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Posted: 9/11/2013 10:55:49 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I used a can of Krylon on my sons beater 500. looks great. if it flakes off blast it again.. I was going to post this. It's a 500  Don't spend more on the finish than the gun is worth. SPEND YOUR TIME PREPPING THE SURFACE, hit it with your best three-color camo job and let it dry for a week or so. Then, enjoy it and welcome the scrapes and scratches as a badge of honor not seen on safe queens. If it starts to look ugly, spend another $10 on more spray paint. 
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