Does anyone have a link with a detailed link and description of cleaning auto shotguns, or the m1 super 90? What do I need? The manual doesn't say much about cleaning.

This is the second shotgun I've owned, and it's the first auto. Just took it out for its first time today.

IIRC, from before I made the mistake of selling my M1 (sheesh what a brainfart that was), here's how it goes.  I don't remember how the trigger group comes out, but a couple of pins come to mind.  Remove the barrel, pull the charging handle out of the side of the bolt, pull/slide/drop the bolt assembly out the front of the receiver and clean/oil away.  

Just a light coat of oil is all that needs to be left in there.

And make sure that the "leg" on the back of the bolt engages the recoil spring follower in the stock when you reassemble it.

Eric

How do I apply the oil? What oil do I use? Benelli gave me a bottle of what looks like oil or lubricant?|

I've never cleaned a gun before so I'm unsure of the whole process. So far I've used a barrel wire thing and also a barrel cloth....

Are there any write ups or anything on rifle/shotgun cleaning on the internet?

Usually the bore of a shotgun doesn't get that dirty.  Most of the crap simply wipes out with a patch or a "mop".  Most shot loads are contained in plastic "wads" which keep the shot from touching the barrel metal.  Just go buy a generic $10-20 shotgun cleaning kit  (Hoppe's is a good brand) with a sectional cleaning rod, bronze bristle brush, a jag with which to run large cotton patches through the bore, and a "mop" to finish up with.

Believe it or not, I use motor oil.  Mobil1 0W-30 to be specific. And I use cheap tooth brushes and Q-tips to wipe out the crud from the small places.  Then I use clean Q-tips to apply the oil to just about every interior surface where moving parts rub together.  Just a thin coat of oil mind you, not globs or enough that it starts to run and drip.  Just quickly dip the Q-tip into the oil and pull it back out.  Let the oil completely soak into the Q-tip and then proceed to re-oil the guns surfaces.  Don't forget to occasionally wipe the outside of the gun with an oily cloth too in order to prevent rust.

Why motor oil?  Simple.  If it works in a car engine with tolerances that are FAR smaller than in any gun, and at the speeds and  number of cycles that an engine produces, then it'll work just fine in a gun that is looser and whose parts move much slower.  Motor oil also contains detergents which are great at dissolving and removing crud and powder residue.

Being a synthetic oil, it also stays fluid at really freaking cold temperatures and yet still "sticks" to the parts at really hot temps.

And the best part is that a $5 quart of Mobil1 will last you many, many years.

Eric

nevermind