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Posted: 7/19/2008 3:06:22 PM EDT
I love the 1911 grip's on my gun. But the bolt release was a tad too short, hard to get to.


I kind of jerry rigged this thing together. I'm sure some of you can come up with something better, and probably have the right tool's for the job. A Drillpress, possibly a small tap also, if they make them that small.

In case you can't tell, that's just the head of an Allen bolt. With a smaller allen bolt inside, extending into the bolt release. It took a few tries before I got one straight enough to work. That's where a good Drillpress would help.



But it serves it's purpose, as long as the JB Weld holds. Much easier to hit the bolt release now with the 1911 grip's.  

If anyone has done anything similar, post up some pic's.
Link Posted: 8/14/2008 4:40:54 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 8/14/2008 6:24:31 PM EDT
[#2]
There was a guy on here a day or so ago asking about this....
Link Posted: 8/14/2008 7:36:18 PM EDT
[#3]
I have a drill press and some taps.  I will get mine out tomorrow and tap it for a single allen head.  I won't need to put one in the center of another like you have it.  I hope it takes a little wear and tear off my thumb.  
Link Posted: 8/16/2008 3:43:04 AM EDT
[#4]
FWIW Most Ruger 22/45 MK series experts (I am not one) do not recommend using the bolt release to chamber a round as it is said to wear the release to the point it no longer will function. In the MK III 22/45s I have, I did the bolt "sling-shot" mod after doing the 1911 grip mod which for me eliminated the need to extend the bolt release. YMMV
Link Posted: 8/16/2008 4:01:37 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
FWIW Most Ruger 22/45 MK series experts (I am not one) do not recommend using the bolt release to chamber a round as it is said to wear the release to the point it no longer will function. In the MK III 22/45s I have, I did the bolt "sling-shot" mod after doing the 1911 grip mod which for me eliminated the need to extend the bolt release. YMMV

I tried the Sling shot thing, it did'nt work so well. You are talking about just pulling the spring and detent out? Relying on Gravity to let the bolt release fall when you pull the bolt back? Needs a spring or something to pull it out of the way, to be reliable IMO.
Link Posted: 8/16/2008 7:41:00 AM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:

Quoted:
FWIW Most Ruger 22/45 MK series experts (I am not one) do not recommend using the bolt release to chamber a round as it is said to wear the release to the point it no longer will function. In the MK III 22/45s I have, I did the bolt "sling-shot" mod after doing the 1911 grip mod which for me eliminated the need to extend the bolt release. YMMV

I tried the Sling shot thing, it did'nt work so well. You are talking about just pulling the spring and detent out? Relying on Gravity to let the bolt release fall when you pull the bolt back? Needs a spring or something to pull it out of the way, to be reliable IMO.


Then something is holding it up (rubbing, hole is smaller, etc.). I have done it to two MK III 22/45s and one acts as you describe (not every time) but I will remedy that when I replace the hammer pin. I would rather spend a little time getting it to fall free then have a premature failure. You can still "sling-shot" by holding down the release and letting the bolt go home which also prevents wear but requires two hands. The other 22/45 works just like a MK II when you "sling-shot" it. It shouldn't need anything added to work. YMMV and, of course, you can do as you please.
Link Posted: 8/16/2008 10:33:23 AM EDT
[#7]
I am doing the slingshot method but even when I take the spring and plunger out the slide stop has too much friction on the plastic frame to just drop.  I pull the bolt back with my left hand and then push the bolt stop lever down with my right thumb at the same time.  My thumb is sore.  Ideally the way to complete this mod would be to find a spring that would go around the trigger pin, brace on the frame and push down on the slide stop.
Link Posted: 8/16/2008 11:13:23 AM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:
I am doing the slingshot method but even when I take the spring and plunger out the slide stop has too much friction on the plastic frame to just drop.  I pull the bolt back with my left hand and then push the bolt stop lever down with my right thumb at the same time.  My thumb is sore.  Ideally the way to complete this mod would be to find a spring that would go around the trigger pin, brace on the frame and push down on the slide stop.


I just did some work on my Mark III 22/45 today (as I was having the same problem you mention).  I lightly sanded the slot that the rear of the slide lock goes in, as well as the inside of the frame that the slide lock contacts.  I also lightly filed the inside of the hole through which the slide lock button goes.  After that, mine drops every time I slingshot.
Link Posted: 8/16/2008 12:47:02 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I am doing the slingshot method but even when I take the spring and plunger out the slide stop has too much friction on the plastic frame to just drop...


I just did some work on my Mark III 22/45 today (as I was having the same problem you mention).  I lightly sanded the slot that the rear of the slide lock goes in, as well as the inside of the frame that the slide lock contacts.  I also lightly filed the inside of the hole through which the slide lock button goes.  After that, mine drops every time I slingshot.


I figure I will have to do just the same to loosen mine up and all will be fine. I see no need  to add complications with springs, etc. when it is not needed. Ruger shouldn't have messed with the MK II to begin with but all we can do is correct their frackups.
Link Posted: 8/17/2008 10:30:04 PM EDT
[#10]
Ok...I just wanna know where you go those grips.  Those look real nice.  I've googled Punisher 1911 grips but I'm not finding anything "exactly" like what you're showing.  
Link Posted: 8/24/2008 4:05:51 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
Ok...I just wanna know where you go those grips.  Those look real nice.  I've googled Punisher 1911 grips but I'm not finding anything "exactly" like what you're showing.  

Got them in the EE, don't know where the original buyer got them.
Link Posted: 8/25/2008 7:59:02 AM EDT
[#12]



i89.photobucket.com/albums/k216/trukreltrog/nfe/DSCI0090.jpg

But it serves it's purpose, as long as the JB Weld holds. Much easier to hit the bolt release now with the 1911 grip's.  

If anyone has done anything similar, post up some pic's.


I noticed that your 1911 grips are ALOT fatter than the one's I have installed.  My grips are slim lined (still feels good in the hand) but it doesn't cause any interference with the catch release. Could look into getting slimmer grips.  Just a thought.

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