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Posted: 1/27/2006 4:28:06 PM EDT
Before:


After:




Both have Nowlin hammer, sears and disconnectors. Refinished in manganese phosphate.

Warrior:
Brown thumb safe and mag catch, Nowlin bushing, McCormick rosewood stocks.

Clackamas:
C&S slide stop and thumb safe, Briley bushing, S&A magwell, Bomar rear sight, Wilson government plug and guide rod and Hogue rosewood stocks.
Link Posted: 1/27/2006 4:53:33 PM EDT
[#1]


Very nice.



Link Posted: 1/27/2006 4:59:26 PM EDT
[#2]
Sweet.

I have a Yonkers Kimber - it's fine, but I need a Clackamas, earlier one too ;)
Link Posted: 1/27/2006 5:01:36 PM EDT
[#3]
I missed the chance at a Clack Kimber for $425 a few months back, it was in excellent condition, and I was in broke condition.

BTW:  Nice refinish!
Link Posted: 1/27/2006 5:13:42 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
I missed the chance at a Clack Kimber for $425 a few months back, it was in excellent condition, and I was in broke condition.

BTW:  Nice refinish!



Good price!

I paid $450 new in 96 or  97 when they came out.

Thanks guys!
Link Posted: 1/27/2006 5:14:20 PM EDT
[#5]
super nice
Link Posted: 1/27/2006 6:35:29 PM EDT
[#6]
That is pretty much identical to what I'm going to do to my Warrior.  I may be in the minority, but I really don't like the Kimpro finish.

Comp1911,

What did you do to strip the Kimpro?  Did you just sandblast it?  If so, what media did you use?
Link Posted: 1/27/2006 8:11:52 PM EDT
[#7]
tag
Link Posted: 1/27/2006 8:20:14 PM EDT
[#8]
FWIW the beavertails are also MIM. As well as the sears hammers and the regular fixed sights. I don't know if the Novak type sights are or not.
Link Posted: 1/28/2006 6:37:46 AM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
FWIW the beavertails are also MIM. As well as the sears hammers and the regular fixed sights. I don't know if the Novak type sights are or not.



I'm not worried about the beavertail failing. Other beavertails are cast so I don't see much difference. The Warrior has actual Novaks.
Link Posted: 1/28/2006 6:40:18 AM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:
That is pretty much identical to what I'm going to do to my Warrior.  I may be in the minority, but I really don't like the Kimpro finish.

Comp1911,

What did you do to strip the Kimpro?  Did you just sandblast it?  If so, what media did you use?



Sandblasted in blast cabinet. Be aware that the plunger tube, thumb safe, ejector, mainspring housing and mag catch are stainless and will not parkerize. I replaced some of these with steel parts. I left the ejector and plunger as I didn't want to mess with them.
Link Posted: 1/28/2006 9:42:11 AM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:

Quoted:
That is pretty much identical to what I'm going to do to my Warrior.  I may be in the minority, but I really don't like the Kimpro finish.

Comp1911,

What did you do to strip the Kimpro?  Did you just sandblast it?  If so, what media did you use?



Sandblasted in blast cabinet. Be aware that the plunger tube, thumb safe, ejector, mainspring housing and mag catch are stainless and will not parkerize. I replaced some of these with steel parts. I left the ejector and plunger as I didn't want to mess with them.



Thumb safety, grip safety, and mainspring housing have already been replaced.  I tried to refinish one of my other Kimbers, and found out that the barrel bushing, grip screw bushings, plunger tube, ejector, and thumb safety were stainless.  Makes for an interesting look.
Link Posted: 1/29/2006 2:13:15 PM EDT
[#12]
Just wanted to show a pic of my parkerizing contraption. I built the frame around a old gas fireplace burner. I run it off a 20lb propane cylinder. I use a cheap engine temp gauge to monitor temp. It takes about 20  minutes to get the 3-4 gallons of solution up to 190 degrees. I use Brownells manganese phosphate solution. I clean the parts with laquer thinner and then into a hot water dip in my basement laundry tub. Then they go to the park tank then to the hot water again. I used WD40 to displace all the water after the dip and then hose down with CLP, I have used BreakFree and G96.

I had the stainless tank fabbed at a shop I do business with at work.

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