Gentlemen,
Don't belive the hype of needing to replace hammers and sears because of hammer follow, unless you had a trigger job done or you have had a lot of hammer follows. Like you just kept cycling the pistol as if it would fix itself.
For stock parts look at your sear and hammer after you pull them out of the pistol, if the two mating surfaces have cracks, chips or are rounded out then get new parts.
Just a bit of hinting of what each leaf on the sear spring does.
Holding the sear spring as it is set in the pistol:
Left leaf (the one with the hook) is to hold the sear against the hammer.
Center leaf is to push the trigger forward.
Right leaf is to push back the grip safety.
So If you bend the left leaf forward it will cause the sear to engage the hammer with more force and also makes your trigger pull heavier.
If you bend the center spring forward it will make your trigger heavier and help to reduce the trigger bounce problem.
Pull the right leaf back and you grip safety will need a firmer grip.
Most people don't understand that all most 1911's need is adjustment of the sear spring.
But you need to have a quality sear spring so that it retains the adjustment. Many of the pistols these days come with substandard sear springs that don't hold adjustments well.
DO NOT MESS WITH THE SEAR SPRING TO LIGHTEN YOUR TRIGGER PULL UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. IT CAN CAUSE ACCIDENTAL DISCHARGE IN A WORST CASE SITUATION!!!! Leave trigger jobs to the gunsmiths.