Okay, if you want to start blending, this is how I do it. All my blending is done with the fire control parts, and mainspring internals, installed. That way the end result should look right. On my first one, I started to blend without the parts installed, and there was a noticeable difference in appearance when I installed the parts. Because of this, I had to do some extra blending.
First I check the front of the magwell fingers (I like to call them fangs, 'cause those suckers are SHARP) as they extend toward the frontstrap. Most likely, they won't be the same length. Pull the magwell off, and grind them to the desired length. I like the recess them from the magazine basepad notch by around 1/8".
The edges of the magwell should extend into the magazine tunnel. Rough estimate is around 1/4" on the left/right hand sides. The rear of the magazine well and the frame is usally much closer. I start with a 60 grit tapered roll, and begin grinding the lowest portion of the magwell (the part that overhangs the mag tunnel). Going slowly, I try to get it close to the edge of the frame. Also, don't just hold the dremel at a 90 degree angle (vertical). You can tilt it to the left and right as you blend. It worked well for me. Don't be concerned about creating your taper at this point. Keep the dremel moving smoothly as you grind down the overhang. You will probably use nearly all 10 rolls of the 60 grit paper before you begin to get close.
Once I get fairly close to the sides of the frame, I switch to the 120 grit. Now is when I try to work on blending the taper so that it flows smoothly, and matches any angle beveled on the frame. Make sure you keep the dremel moving, so that you don't create any flat spots. Also, try to keep both sides symetrical. You want to try and create nice clean lines, and
smooth curves, to include the front portion of the magwell. Again, you will probably use up all 10 rolls here.
Next, move onto the 240 grit rolls. This is great for smoothing out small imperfections and trying to keep everything uniform and looking like it flows smoothly. I use the 240 grit to round off the top of the magwell, and creat a nice slope as it drops toward the front of the fangs. You don't want to create any sharp angles, or square anything that should be a nice smooth radius.
Finally, I break out the Cratex, and polish it up.
Final advice: Go slowly. You can always take more off, but it is not easy to put it back on.
Keep the dremel moving smoothly. Don't let it rest in any one spot, unless you want to create a flat spot. Don't worry about creating the downward slope (taper) until it is time. It is much easier to grind the magwell close to the frame and then just blend in the taper. Use the tip of your index finger to feel for flat spots, bumps, and any areas that need additional work. Don't use a more agressive grit than necessary.