I have little experence with all if not all of these, so how bout some imput about the tangs/blending, and other pros/cons on these from the more knowledgeable members?  


MCCORMICK:   Extreme Control Grip Safety.  250" radius


WILSON COMBAT:


WILSON COMBAT: DROP-IN BEAVERTAIL


KING'S: Drop-In
#203: Govt. model frames with standard hammers.
#204: Commander/Officers ACP/SA Govt. frames with Commander hammer
#205: Govt. with notch to allow for Commander hammer


KING'S:  SUPER-HIGH HANDHOLD


ED BROWN: HIGH SWEEP BEAVERTAIL


ED BROWN: MEMORY GROOVE BEAVERTAIL: .250" radius

I know that Brown, STI and CMC make a .250 radius. To install one of them, get this:
.250 radius jig

The Wilson is a compound radius. To install a Wilson, get this:
Wilson Jig

Wilson's drop in safeties work well, but they pretty much look like crap because they are relieved to fit any 1911 frame, so you are left with huge gaps.

Springfield pistols require a 0.220" radius.

thanks guys, I'd also like to see good up close pics of these various ones installed properly, and perhaps have someone recemend the proper smoothing and blending tools, i.e. which grit papers/files, etc,

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I saw a post here where you installed a straight back strap, eliminating the grip safety. What's the deal with that? I guess some feel you don't need them.

Here are some articles that will answer many questions, including different beavertails:

www.precision-gunworks.com/FAQ.aspx

Quoted: Here are some articles that will answer many questions, including different beavertails: www.precision-gunworks.com/FAQ.aspx

excellent source, thank you!

Quoted: I use the standard sanding drums that come with a Dremel, and they are very coarse.  I believe they are 60 grit, but they might be 80.  I use them because they cut quick.  They also leave deep gouges, so you need to go to a finer grit drum after that.  You can use 240 and 320 grit blending rolls, which can be had at Brownells.  You can also find the Dremel stuff at larger hardware stores and places like Home Depot or Lowes.  Here is where most home gunsmiths stop.

Thank you hobbs, that's exactly what i was looking for

Quoted: Springfield pistols require a 0.220" radius.

Is that a fact?
Does anyone disagree?  I'm looking to install a beaver tail on my Mil-Spec, and I've narrowed my options down to "not Ed Brown and not drop-in" because I don't think I can affoard to have the frame refinished after grinding it to fit the Ed Brown one.  What's it cost to refinish a frame?

Quoted:What's it cost to refinish a frame?

It depends on what type of finish you want. The least expensive would probably be blueing, but I'm not sure what it usually costs. Hard chrome plating and most of the polymer type of finishes will cost a little more. I know Virgil Tripp will refinish the frame and all "lower" parts for under $100. Other shops will probably be in the same ballpark.

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I've finally grown the balls to take on this project.  IT was quit an experience, so far I've got 8 hours of work into it and have a rough project so far.  

I went with the following parts:
WILSON COMBAT High Grip beavertail
C&S 4.5 lbs TACTICAL MATCH KIT
WILSON COMBAT Narrow Extended Thumb Safety\

I also decided to use the SMITH & ALEXANDER INSTALLATION JIG.  it was an extremely rough fit, the upper recess in the beavertail needed a ton of fitting even with the jig.  I wonder which of the other jigs are better?

These pics are pre blending of the beavertail, but post check.  All parts work and engage properly and is a blast to shoot.  The big things that I ran into that were unexpected was, the beavertail was too wide and required fitting to allow it to depress.  The groove inside the thumb safety was too shallow and required deepening, which was a pia with a hand file, so I had to gently use a dremel.  There is maybe .002-.005"  difference between the right and left side on the contour, but overall, not too shabby a job for my first time.  If I do say so myself.