No offense, but what's the problem? You sound like you're worried about your trigger due to what someone else said. Who cares what that guy thinks? You shouldn't.
TWIRE asked a couple times what it was about your pull you didn't like. Let me go over a few things with you. There are several factors to the trigger pull. Here are some:
-Trigger pull weight: this is largely affected by the engagement angles and surfaces between the sear and hammer. The sear is the internal piece that holds the hammer back in the cocked position. In a trigger job, the engagement angles and surfaces are carefully cut and polished, and are responsible for the largest redusction in pull weight. Another factor is the amount of spring tension in the system. As already mentioned by TWIRE, there is the weight of the mainspring, and there is also the weight of the sear spring, specifically the sear and disconnector/trigger legs. Also, there is friction in the system to overcome, which is achieved by polishing parts like the trigger stirrup, the diconnector, the trigger track in the frame, etc.
-Trigger takeup: this is the initial distance the trigger travels before it engages the sear. There needs to be a certain amount for the disconnector to do it's job. Another term for this is slack, and yet another is pre-travel. Eliminating this is a function of limiting how far forward the trigger sits at rest (some triggers have a tab for this), and also some sears have a fitting pad. Most smiths don't even mess with this, as the distance is so minimal to begin with.
-Triger creep: after takeup is pulled, the trigger stirrup/disconnector engages the sear, and pulling the trigger further rearward will pull the sear away from the hammer, allowing the hammer to fall. The face of the sear can dag across the bottom of the hammer hooks to a degree whare it's felt. If you can feel it, it is described as creep. It feels like sponginess or noticeable grittiness. This is not to be confused with grittiness due to dirt and rough surfaces felt during takeup. Creep is the single worst thing to most users of 1911s regarding trigger pulls. The only way to get rid of it is to properly prep the sear and hammer, and to an extent the disconnector and sear spring.
-Trigger overtravel: after the sear breaks free of the hammer, the trigger will move rearward. This is known as overtravel or backlash. There again needs to be a certain amount for the sear to clear the hammer sufficiently. Most aftermarket triggers have a small screw in them to adjust out overtravel. This is where many screw up their trigger job. Adjust out too much, and the sear bumps the hammer's half cock notch. The sear gets battered from the constant hits on it's face. Eventually you end up with creep. Adjust out too much on a Colt with Series 80 parts, and you get light firing pin hits from the insufficent lift of the plunger in the slide. Worse yet, it can cause the firing pin and firing pin stop to fall out of the gun.
Anyway, that's a lot to throw at you, but basically, if you dry fire your gun, you will figure out what it is about trigger you like or dislike. If you have issue with any of the above items, by all means have a professional trigger job done. If you have not noticed any problems, and are just worried because some a**hat told you there was something wrong with your gun, don't sweat it.