i have got this S&W 469, blued

its got some rust spots and the bluing is wearing out on the slide

would it be easy to re-finish w/ paint like Lauer custom Weapoanry Duracoat, or something?

prep work?

do i have to remove the bluing completely?

thanks all

Quoted: i have got this S&W 469, blued its got some rust spots and the bluing is wearing out on the slide would it be easy to re-finish w/ paint like Lauer custom Weapoanry Duracoat, or something? prep work? do i have to remove the bluing completely? thanks all

I refinished a cheapo LLAMA I got practically for free.

I highly recommend Norrell's moly resin.

Here's what I did:   I stripped the gun down, and degreased in acetone, then blasted with 90 grit at a local machine shop (I know the owner).   Attached hanging wires, and then a final soap and water clean up, followed by  final rinse in acetone and dry with pure clean cotton towels.

Parts were preheated in a toaster oven, and airbrushed with a "testors" airbrush from Walmart ($10).   Two coats lightly misted, then into the regular oven (rack at the topmost position, hanging from wires) for the suggested time.

Moly resin is VERY hard and durable, with impressive scratch resistance.

I've used some of the Brownells and others' products in the past.  Chipping and scratchign were much more common.   It is actually difficult to scratch the Moly Resin.

I've been doing some "two tone" things lately, i.e., his stainless look silver on the frame with a medium gloss or flat black on the slide and controls.

Looks nice.

Ive  used Brownell bake on paint on a few 1911s, very durable and long lasting.
The first 1911, was refinished almost six yrs ago & still look freshly painted.

Just do the  prept  & your good to go.

TG

get yourself a good blue sharpie and call it good.

Quoted: get yourself a good blue sharpie and call it good.

no thanks

thanks for the additional info gonzo and texasgunman

i'll check out brownell's and norrell's moly resin and decide which to use from there......

so it sounds like prep work is primary work

do i have to sandblast off the old bluing or can i just degrease it and coat w/ some of the above re-finishes (kinda like on ARs, but i know that bluing is different than anodized black)?


is there another way to get the bluing off, casue i dont have ready access to a sandblaster?

thanks again all

Quoted: Quoted: get yourself a good blue sharpie and call it good. no thanks thanks for the additional info gonzo and texasgunman i'll check out brownell's and norrell's moly resin and decide which to use from there...... so it sounds like prep work is primary work do i have to sandblast off the old bluing or can i just degrease it and coat w/ some of the above re-finishes (kinda like on ARs, but i know that bluing is different than anodized black)? is there another way to get the bluing off, casue i dont have ready access to a sandblaster? thanks again all

Birchwood Casey sells an acid based blue remover.

But you're going to need to use blasting to get the right texture for the new finish to attach to.  A high polish (such as is underneat most blue finishes) will not promote good adhesion.

Do not blast with glass beads.

90 grit sand is the order of the day.

I agree, I'd have to say if you can't have it sandblasted don't bother trying to paint it.  The paint will come off much faster and in bigger chunks and you won't be happy.

+1 on the moly resin.  This stuff wears very well, and when it comes off it looks like worn bluing instead of worn paint.

ok thanks for the help and info

will try to locate someone w/ a blaster

Here are a couple photos to put things in perspective:

This 1911 is a beater and it has been subjected to more abuse than most of my other guns.  It's wearing Norrell's moly resin and you can just begin to see a few scuffs and wear marks on it, along the high edges.



This 1911 was finished in Brownell's teflon moly and the gun had only a satin bead blasted finish beforehand.  You can easily see where the finish is chipping away.

Quoted: Here are a couple photos to put things in perspective: This 1911 is a beater and it has been subjected to more abuse than most of my other guns.  It's wearing Norrell's moly resin and you can just begin to see a few scuffs and wear marks on it, along the high edges. grahamcracka.dns2go.com/kt-tactical.jpg This 1911 was finished in Brownell's teflon moly and the gun had only a satin bead blasted finish beforehand.  You can easily see where the finish is chipping away. grahamcracka.dns2go.com/sistema/tmcloseup.jpg

ok thanks for the pics; illustrative examples are always good

do yall think that this sandblaster kit would be fine www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=31823&R=31823?

i got a friend who has a big air compressor w/ a 5hp motor, so i guess i just need a sandblaster kit and protective covers/masks.....

nice 1911s by the way ken

That blaster should be fine.  The big question mark will be the compressor.  I'd say if it produces anything less than 5 cfm @ 90psi you are going to be at it a while.   Mine generates a little over 6 cfm @ 90 psi and it took me about an hour to sandblast a 1911 and all the parts.   I run it around 80 psi.

I have a blast cabinet so I can't give you any tips on keeping your sand from getting away from you.  I've heard of folks making a field expedient blast cabinet out of a cardboard box, I'm sure you can find something on Google.

nice 1911s by the way ken

Nah, believe me, that one's a beater :)

ok thanks for all of the advice and help

if it takes me a while, oh well

might be a beater, but its still nice looking