I'm considering my first revolver S&W 686  .357
I'm familiar with the round.
It's only purpose would paper target perforation.

What's the deal with "moon clips"?
Are they required/optional?
Are they caliber/manufacturer specific?
Are they an option in addition to, or in lieu of spped loaders?

Moon clips are used in the 45ACP revolvers. The .45ACP lacks a rim and the moon clips aid in loading and ejecting. Speed Loaders woould work well for a 686, they are not needed but are very nice to have for fast reloads.
Hope this helps, let us know if you pick up the 686.

Chris

Moon clips are generally for cartridges meant for semiauto handguns, the moon clips give the extractor something to grip for extraction after firing.

There are revolvers out there for 45ACP, 9mm, 38Super, and 10mm Auto that all make use of moon clips so that extraction of the fired cartridges is easier.

Enter the game gun revolver scene and sometimes you see revolvers like the 357Magnum making use of moon clips, not for the purposes of extraction but for the purpose of easier reloading without needing multiple speed loaders.   357Moon clips are a pretty specialized adaptation, don't run into them too frequently.

oh damn i thought you were talking about a ruger sp 101 ( nice carry wheel gun )... nevermind...

J

Quoted: It's only purpose would paper target perforation.

ONLY purpose?  Or maybe you meant "primary?"

If you're only punching paper, .357's massive overkill.

Like you need someone telling you ONE MORE point of view on this, but...

The 686 is a perfectly good revolver, though, as Hal mentioned, really a lot of power potential for paper only, and the L-frames are beefier than you need for punching targets.

If you truly plan on "paper only", maybe consider one of the K-frame Smiths w/ adjustable sights that show up frequently at gun shows or shops as a result of police or security service trade-ins. You'll have plenty to look at (be picky!), and prices are generally good. I got a used round-butt Model 65 for less than $200 that was perfect. This is a fixed-sight model, but I saw a number of Model 66 as well (adj sights).

For that matter, paper-only shooting would make a .38Spl a better choice. Some of these I saw were stunningly cheap, but many looked a bit holster-worn.

Now, if you suspect you might get into silhouette shooting, the 686 is a great beginners piece. Also, it will certainly do for small game/varmint hunting; further, a skilled hand and a cool head can make the 686 a solid self-defense revolver.

Speedloaders are cool to play with and look neat, but if you're not planning on making this a self-defense piece, they're not really useful for you. (Of course, should you plan on potentially using the 686 as a self-defense piece, go take a course from a reputable instructor who doesn't have a vendetta against wheelguns.)

best to you

The 686 is fine..  

It will chamber and fire .38 specials.  Have fun with it.

Tx, didn't mean to imply 686 wouldn't shoot .38 -- az, if I gave that impression, sorry. Obviously, any .357 will.

My only pont was that, if you are paper-only oriented, adjustable sighted K-frame Smiths are readily available for a lot less, and will do a great job. If you do LOTS of .38 shooting in the 686 and wish to switch to .357, you might have some vigorous chamber cleaning to do; likewise, if you become a better shooter than most of us (and our revolvers) can do, shooting .38s from a .38 cylinder should be more accurate than out of a .357 chamber. NOT generally noticeable for most of us and most revolvers.

Thanks for all of the info.

Paper punching has always been the extent of my shooting. From 22LR to 12ga, that's all I do.
There's always the "what if?" self defense issue. However, this gun would not be in that line up.

Frame type doesn't matter to me, I don't know the difference.
Model#s are greek to me. I looked at several today and couldn't tell the difference other than grips, finish and berrel length/type (I'm probably not paying much attention).
Hand picking one isn't a good idead for me, as I don't know what to look for in a revolver.

I actually don't like revolvers and have purposely never owned one. I just want to try something different, and decided on a big stainless .357 revolver. A behind the scenes idea is to get the little woman to try it using .38, but that's not likely. She's not a gun fan. In 7 years, I've gotten her to the range once. That was only to watch the oldest, who I take shooting with me.

This is kind of like a Desert Eagle or S&W 500 to me. Yeah, it's overkill for anything other than game. Plus I'm sure there are more practical options, but I want it anway, just 'cuz I do.

I was just curious as to how the moon clips tied in.

Thanks again for all of the info

I have a 6" barreled 686 that has seen literally thousands of rounds. Matter of fact, I shot it for a while saturday. They are excellent handguns.

And as a bonus, I can get remanufactured .38 LSWC's for around $105, shipped to my door.

LSWC?  

What is that?

Quoted: LSWC?   What is that?

Lead, Semi-WadCutter

Quoted: The 686 is fine..   It will chamber and fire .38 specials.  Have fun with it.

Yup...I love mine.  Sweet trigger too.

you can get your 686 reconfigured for moonclips.

ispc and ppc shooters do it all the time..

the gun will be awesome...and one of the best shooters you'll ever handle.

i would just use safariland or HKS speedloaders, myself.

4 inch tube...with some night sights.

i should have NEVER sold mine..it is the only gun i have ever sold...

if you dont use it for man stopping..your missing out on one of the GREATEST MANSTOPPING CARTRIDGES OF ALL TIME...

125gr JHP...

if you dont use it for man stopping..your missing out on one of the GREATEST MANSTOPPING CARTRIDGES OF ALL TIME... 125gr JHP...

Yup, I carried one on duty for 5 years, damn fine weapon, excellent accuracy, good power, and with a little practice and speed loaders, you could load it ALMOST as fast as a semi.
Hell, if not for capacity, I'd rather use my old 686 over the Beretta 96D that we transitioned to.