But i just got a NIB Cimarron Model P w/ 7 1/2 inch Bbl case colored frame, blued cylinder and barrel and walnut grips in .45 LC.  I've been wanting a cowboy gun for a long time and i finally pulled the trigger on Gunbroker.

I got it for 290 + shipping too, which is nice since they usually go for around 400

Remember to fully cock the hammer before lowering it, after loading/unloading. If you don't, it will eventually wear the internals enough to cause problems.

Quoted: Remember to fully cock the hammer before lowering it, after loading/unloading. If you don't, it will eventually wear the internals enough to cause problems.

thanks, good to know, any other tips?  how are these weapons?  I've gotten the impression that Cimarron is about mid-upper end quality for the SAA copies.

if you dont alreay know.

with colt saa copies w/o xfer bar type ignitions.

only load 5 in the cylinder and rest the hammer on the empty one.

Quoted: Quoted: Remember to fully cock the hammer before lowering it, after loading/unloading. If you don't, it will eventually wear the internals enough to cause problems. thanks, good to know, any other tips?  how are these weapons?  I've gotten the impression that Cimarron is about mid-upper end quality for the SAA copies.

Load one, skip one, load four. That will put the empty chamber under the hammer(after fully cocking and then lowering it).

I've read in a few places that SAAs and their replicas need the springs replaced at regular intervals(not sure on round count) to prolong the life of the internals.

Don't fan it either, that kills them.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Remember to fully cock the hammer before lowering it, after loading/unloading. If you don't, it will eventually wear the internals enough to cause problems. thanks, good to know, any other tips?  how are these weapons?  I've gotten the impression that Cimarron is about mid-upper end quality for the SAA copies. Load one, skip one, load four. That will put the empty chamber under the hammer(after fully cocking and then lowering it). I've read in a few places that SAAs and their replicas need the springs replaced at regular intervals(not sure on round count) to prolong the life of the internals. Don't fan it either, that kills them.

Yeah, I know the 5-shooter thing, and not to fan, dry firing should be doen with snap caps only too right?

Yes, Snap Caps are a good idea.  The Cimarrons are about the best of teh Italian imports and you got a great price on that one.  I've shot SAA copies for quite a few years and there are a few weak points on them.  The steel is not quite as good as American steel.  Keep an eye on the recoil shield; the area of the frame at the rear of the cylinder, where the firing pin pokes through.  If the hole is smaller than the FP, metal will get peened out some.  When the cartridge fires, the primer can get caught up on that little nipple of metal.  Simple thing to dress down with a file or stone.  This will take many hundreds of hammer falls to happen and will get to be less of a problem as time goes on, as you are moving metal out of the way.  Once the frame and FP fit to each other, no more problem.

On the many SAA copies I've owned, I've broken two trigger/bolt springs and one hand spring.  Some of the newer guns use a coil spring to push the hand forward.  You can tell by taking off the gripstrap and looking under the 'ears' of teh strap, up by the hammer.  If you see a littel filler screw, you have a coil spring and will, most likely never have to touch it. The trigger bolt spring is easily accessable by taking off the forward/lower part of teh grip/trigger guard.  It's a double legged flat steel spring held in by one screw towards the muzzle end of the frame.  If you want to help lighten the trigger pull and make the gun more reliable, you can get a music wire srping from Brownell's made by Wolff or Heinie.  Simple installation and well worth the $5 or so they cost.  Another way to ease up on the cocking force/trigger pull is to put a small tab of leather between the hammer spring and the grip frame.  I cut a hun as wide as the frame metal and then either cut a slot or drill a hole for the screw to fit through.  One you take it apart or look at an exploded diagram this will all seem pretty easy.

These are great guns, and will give you lots of entertainment.  If you don't handload, I'd reccomend the Remington 250 or 255gr round nose ammo.  It's bullets are fairly soft and have a slight hollow base which will expand to fit the cylider mouths and bore.  They usually give good accuraccy.  And, if you have any desire to keep it loaded for defence, the CCI Blazer ammo with a 200gr Gold Dot is priiced competitively and has good performance.  Out of the 7 1/2" barrel I'd bet it will best the .45 acp.

Enjoy that shooter and of course, we all want to see some pics of that beast!

Doug K

Quoted: Yes, Snap Caps are a good idea.  The Cimarrons are about the best of teh Italian imports and you got a great price on that one.  I've shot SAA copies for quite a few years and there are a few weak points on them.  The steel is not quite as good as American steel.  Keep an eye on the recoil shield; the area of the frame at the rear of the cylinder, where the firing pin pokes through.  If the hole is smaller than the FP, metal will get peened out some.  When the cartridge fires, the primer can get caught up on that little nipple of metal.  Simple thing to dress down with a file or stone.  This will take many hundreds of hammer falls to happen and will get to be less of a problem as time goes on, as you are moving metal out of the way.  Once the frame and FP fit to each other, no more problem. On the many SAA copies I've owned, I've broken two trigger/bolt springs and one hand spring.  Some of the newer guns use a coil spring to push the hand forward.  You can tell by taking off the gripstrap and looking under the 'ears' of teh strap, up by the hammer.  If you see a littel filler screw, you have a coil spring and will, most likely never have to touch it. The trigger bolt spring is easily accessable by taking off the forward/lower part of teh grip/trigger guard.  It's a double legged flat steel spring held in by one screw towards the muzzle end of the frame.  If you want to help lighten the trigger pull and make the gun more reliable, you can get a music wire srping from Brownell's made by Wolff or Heinie.  Simple installation and well worth the $5 or so they cost.  Another way to ease up on the cocking force/trigger pull is to put a small tab of leather between the hammer spring and the grip frame.  I cut a hun as wide as the frame metal and then either cut a slot or drill a hole for the screw to fit through.  One you take it apart or look at an exploded diagram this will all seem pretty easy. These are great guns, and will give you lots of entertainment.  If you don't handload, I'd reccomend the Remington 250 or 255gr round nose ammo.  It's bullets are fairly soft and have a slight hollow base which will expand to fit the cylider mouths and bore.  They usually give good accuraccy.  And, if you have any desire to keep it loaded for defence, the CCI Blazer ammo with a 200gr Gold Dot is priiced competitively and has good performance.  Out of the 7 1/2" barrel I'd bet it will best the .45 acp. Enjoy that shooter and of course, we all want to see some pics of that beast! Doug K

that was a question i wasn't sure of.   Cimarrons website says any standard .45 LC ammo is good to go, i'm just not sure whats standard.  I know there are BP loads, Cowboy loads, what look like regular defense rounds and then +Ps.  I know not to use anyhting Buffalo Bore or +P, anything else is good to go then right?

Yep, anything not +P is fine.

Well, I guess I screwed up when I tried to post this earlier.  I just went and traded in a deer rifle for cash/trade today at the gun store up the street.  Had every intention of bringin home cash; however, they had this cimarron 5.5" Model P Jr in .38spl that just looked like it had my name on it.  I have always wanted a cowboy gun and at this price, i figured I could afford to figure out the hard way if I liked it.  

Now I need a rig.

And to set a good example for the OP, here at this pictures.  (I could have sworn I posted this, but I guess I had a blonde moment or something.  Wierd)

I had a SAA clone a while back...a...Mitchell?

That was, hands down, the most accurate handgun I've ever owned or fired...

I will post pics as soon as i get it, should be about tuesday.

Quoted: I will post pics as soon as i get it, should be about tuesday.

Likely excuse.... :D

Quoted: Quoted: I will post pics as soon as i get it, should be about tuesday. Likely excuse.... :D

I'm running around my house like an idiot waiting for it, believe me, i will be very excited to show it off.

yeah, it was like gun christmas for me yesterday.  Got the SAA, my C mags showed up in the mail and I found a box of ammo I thought had been used.  Life was good yesterday :D

I have a cimmaron 7.5in in 45lc.....That thing shoots, at 25 I can keep them in 4 inches (good for me) on par with a walther or Beretta.....Also if you get the chance the sucker will shoot pretty accurate groups out to 100 yards about as good as a cheap yugo AK.

Congratulations on your new six gun. Now, if you don't reload yet, it's time to start. Hornady 255 gr. swaged bullets loaded with 8 grains of Unique make a very accurate load for .45 Colt handguns. Very comfortable to shoot, and is a lot cheaper than factory ammo.

i reloaded in the past on single stage RCBS, i'm looking forward to getting a 550 when i get back from overseas.

+1 on reloading.  Not set up for my 38 yet, but getting there.  My 40 loads are so much better than anything you can buy and about 1/4 of the cost.  Buy in large amounts, it hurts, but the pain goes away :D

Where are the gun pictures already?

I've only had cap and ball single actions and a few Vaqueros (four so far, only one left) and a few modern Rugers thrown in.  But I had the itch for some SAA replicas lately, and I just happen to have fallen into three.  Not an easy thing to do here in MA, since no new ones can be sold by a dealer here since they are not "compliant".

The first one I picked up was an Uberti, 4-3/4" barrel, CCH frame with a nickel plated gripframe.  Nice shooting gun, but I did have that peening problem mentioned by someone else in this thread around the firing pin.  I little bit of filing one time and the problem went away.  I guess the parts did wear themselves in.

The second one I found was a Cimmaron Arms, still NIB, but I have the original papers from when it was bought in the early 90's.  It's another 4-3/4" barrel, CCH frame with a brass gripframe.  It came with 2 cylinders, one in .44spl (the only one I've used so far since I handload for it) and another in .44-40.

The third is another Uberti.  This time it's a .45 Colt, 4-3/4" barrel (see a pattern here?), CCH frame, blued gripframe, but it has the older blackpowder-style frame.  I found the grips to be slightly wider, too.

The one thing I've learned about them is they are just like the cap and ball replicas.  Stock spare parts for them.  I'd recommend spare triggers, hand/spring assys, bolt and trigger/bolt springs.  I keep two on hand for every replica I have.  I've lost count of all the times I've had to replace parts on my old CVA 1858 Remington .44.  And, about a week into shooting the SAA replicas, I broke a hand on the first one I got.  The parts require fitting.  My first attempt took me about 2 hours and I had to scrap the part.  Learning from my mistake, the second attempt took me about 10 minutes and worked out perfectly.

Enjoy shooting them.  At times, I have a lot more fun shooting my SAA replicas than I do training with my modern guns.  I've already started making a double gun rig.  I made the patterns for the holsters, but I still need to sit down and saddle stitch them and make a belt.  If leatherwork isn't your thing, check out this site for holsters.  I've heard nothing but great things about him:

Holsters

took mine out to shoot for the first time today after working the hammer constantly in my time off.  

This is now my favorite shooting revolver.  I think I am going to look for a second one in .38 spl.  But something slightly different.  I was originally thinking about a matched set, but I think I am going to go for either a 7 1/2 or something along those lines.  Anyone else have any Cimarron revolvers?

Quoted: took mine out to shoot for the first time today after working the hammer constantly in my time off.   This is now my favorite shooting revolver.  I think I am going to look for a second one in .38 spl.  But something slightly different.  I was originally thinking about a matched set, but I think I am going to go for either a 7 1/2 or something along those lines.  Anyone else have any Cimarron revolvers?

i promise to post pics tomorrow, been really busy.

Range Report:

200gr cowboy loads are soft as marshmallows, and man is this gun laser accurate!  I was hitting 1/2" thick Pokeberrys at 10yds and cutting them down with 1 or 2 shots.  very fun to plink with.  I've also got some Georgia Arms 200gr GDHPs that rocket out at 1100fps for my defense loads.  nice punch and super accurate as well (though i have to aim 5 inches low on the target.

good gun, love all mine


and you got it in the right caliber too

Quoted: took mine out to shoot for the first time today after working the hammer constantly in my time off.   This is now my favorite shooting revolver.  I think I am going to look for a second one in .38 spl.  But something slightly different.  I was originally thinking about a matched set, but I think I am going to go for either a 7 1/2 or something along those lines.  Anyone else have any Cimarron revolvers?

I got the Model P 4-5/8" Old Frame in peacock blue in .45 LC. Prettiest SAA I ever saw. Although Uberti makes the actual parts, Cimarron finishes them to their specs and they do a bang-up job! I have their color catalog and I just drool and lust for the Henry and Winchester and Sharps replicas they sell!