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Posted: 9/30/2007 7:15:12 PM EDT
I've had only one in my past and it was a Ruger .22...
Not sure which caliber to go with. I've handled my Father's Colt .357 Magnum (I liked the way it handled). Anyways, which Caliber would you recommend and why? And which brand would you suggest for me to get? S&W, Ruger, Taurus, EAA Witness, etc. Fixed sights are preferred but it doesn't matter too much. I need some ideas! Thanks. |
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Start with a S&W .357 in some form, or if you are on a budget a Ruger GP100 or Six Series .357
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what are you going to do with it. carry it, range, home defense?
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Everything. So something with over a 5" barrel probably isn't a good idea. |
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Start out with a ,357 w/38's in it to develop your skills and then move up to bigger calibers. If you start with a really heavy hard kicking handgun you'll develop flinching and bad habits that are very hard to overcome.
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+1 Without answering these questions, it's hard to say. If I can only have 1 wheel gun, I'd make it a Dirty Harry Special. |
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Ditto the GP-100. .38 Spl or ..357 Magnum gives you a wide choice in ammo. The 44 Magnum just plain hurts. I shot one (borrowed) for my CCW quals and couldn't shoot anything else for the rest of the day. (This after shooting 40 rounds of .45 ACP, several 9mm and some other stuff.) ETA If money is no object, get a 4" Medusa Model 47. This puppy will shoot ANY of the 9mm/.38 /357 Magnum cartridges!! About 30 or so different bullets! |
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Tough to beat a 4" .44 Magnum for an everything revolver.
You can run everything from pussycat .44 Special target loads on up to full-throttle .44 Magnum bear killers. Go with a S&W pre-lock or a Ruger Redhawk. If you don't venture out onto the trail, a .357 would work. The S&W 686 and Ruger GP-100 are both great options in that category. |
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Yup they shoot 38 cal ammo too... |
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Roger that! |
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If one is only going to own one revolver, I suggest it be a .357 Magnum. From softball wadcutter loads to WFN cast boomers, the .357 has much more versatlity than most give it credit for. The .44 is versatile as well, but ammo costs will break you if you don't reload.
Look for a S&W L or N frame, or a Ruger GP-100. Blackhawk if you're into single actions.. |
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+686 SW686 FTW! I'd look for pre-lock versions as they won't be making any more. Once you've located the pre-lock 686, check hammer and trigger for MIM casting marks...if it doesn't have them, buy it. Hell, buy it regardless. You're getting a forged frame/cylinder/internal parts 357 magnum from SW that's a pussycat with 38s (perfect for the wife or first time shooter). Never ever been a fan of the GP-100 Rugler. |
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The 686-5 represents the change to MIM internals. Anything before that meets the qualifications listed above. |
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Thanks vanilla_gorilla... |
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Nice grips........where did you get them?
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It's a Hogue grip. Brownell's, maybe? It's been a while. |
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.357
good price - used Ruger Security Six or GP 100 decent price- used Smith 686 or 19 The best - Colt Python |
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+1. My thought exactly. The 44 Magnum is the "can do anything" cartridge. |
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What's the differences between a SP101 in .357 and a GP100 in .357?
ETA: And I didn't see a "Security Six" Listed on their page... |
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The SP-101 is designed as a concealment weapon. It's a 5 shot steel-framed .357 with a smaller grip, 2 1/2 inch barrel and (I think) fixed sights. The GP-100 is available in barrels from 3 to 6 inches, is larger in the frame and has a larger grip. It holds 6 rounds, and can have either fixed or adjustable sights. |
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SP is a 5 shot, smaller frame (it's still pretty big), GP is a full sized 6 shot. Security and Speed Six's are no longer made but can easily be found used for a bargain price. The GP is a modern version of the older Security/Speed Six. Side by side you can tell the GP is a direct decendent of them. All 4 of these Rugers seem to get better with age, (the triggers just get better and better) and even the most absued ones work great. Hard to kill. |
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Thanks for the Info... I'm starting to lean towards the GP100. |
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From someone who has all the above I say .357 mag. The .500 is a definite no-way-in-hell for someone not seriously into heavy handguns. Mine is a beast and I am currently trying to work out a loading that doesn't cause a lot of pain. Unless you reload the .44 mag probably not be a great choice. Ammo is expensive and I can't see it getting cheaper. A .38 would be ok but I doubt it would satisfy a serious shooter for very long.
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I recently bought a GP-100 used, and am pleased with it..........now I want another wheel gun, so I am looking at either another .357 or .44 special...........decisions, decisions
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I know what u mean! |
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I'll sell you my Ruger .357 Speed Six and 500 rounds of .38 special hollow points. I don't like it much. If you want something .44 Mag is the way to go. JMHO.
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IM Sent. |
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he's right and it takes alot of work to correct ask me how I know |
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Depends, I'd want at least 2. Before I start, nobody here can say what you should get, you need to decide it for yourself by trying out different manufatureres and calibers. It's only a chunk of metal if you can't hit what your aiming at. But you asked. For revolvers I use mainly 3 though I have others more along the lines of cowboy types but I guess that's not what your looking for. I'm more partial to the S&W brand for DA revolvers than any other, that's just personal preference. All 4", 617 (.22LR,L,S), 686 (six chamber 38sp/357Mag) and a 629 (44sp/44mag). They all feel about the same, I'll get to that in a minute. They are all stainless, not stainless as most think, you still need to care for them else they will rust, but not as bad as a blued job. In my case it wouldn't matter, I baby my stuff. I like the 44 the best for the first 6 shots, then it goes down hill from there. After a box, you will know that you've been firing a powerful hand gun. The 44 is really a good back-up for hunting/trail in dangerous game areas. For an all around revolver, it's hard to beat the 357/38. It's very versatile in power loads, so practicing wouldn't turn into a job and it's full magnum load is plenty for most situations. The ammunition is still not prohibitive in cost as to break the bank to go practice and to be able to keep a good supply on hand. As I said, I would want at least 2 and that brings up the 617. I use the 617 at least 5X more than the others. That's the one I use for practicing because the cartridges are only a tenth of what the 357 costs. I can shoot all day long for $20. As far as is it really practicing for using the 357 or 44? Yes it is. I said that they all match up nicely for heft, ergos and operations, The only real difference is the kick. You've others in your poll like the 500. I suppose it has a uses, but I'll pass. As far as automatic rounds like the 45 apc you can keep them, I'm not much of a full/half moon clip guy, speed loaders are about it. If I were to get another revolver it would be the 460. That can take the 45lcolt, 454 cas & the 460. Again, a lot of power variations there. If I were stuck with only having one, my pick would be a 357, probably the best all around. By the way, the .41 is no slouch but the rounds are not as common and that's another speech.
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GP100 all the way. It was my first gun and is still my most accurate. I have the 6 inch stainless version. Built like a tank!
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I voted .357. Get a Ruger or Smith K frame or L frame and shoot .38 and .38 +P
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AMEN
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I have a Ruger Redhawk in .44 mag with the 7.5" brl and I LOVE it. If you reload is mega cheap fun, I load it for about $6.00/1000 and most of that cost is in primers/powder.
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Get a 357, you can shoot both 38 and 357 in the same gun. I'd recommend a good S&W, or a Ruger if you prefer the heavier gun.
If money is an issue, and you want a cheaper gun and cheaper ammo, then get yourself a good used S&W 38, you can usually find used Model 10's or even Model 15's in the 200-250 range if you shop around. |
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