I own a Stainless TLEII with a pair of Pachmayr Grips and am having a hell of a time with rust under the grips.  
I keep the gun oiled with Mil-Tech and Rigs gun grease (which does prevent galling after the gun heats up) but am finding rust under the grips everytime I pull them for cleaning.  I've tried rubbing the frame with oil before putting the grips back on, but only find more rust (usually takes a week or so).

The grips are a familiar Pachmayr product: wooden with rubber finger grooves (which I cut out with an exacto blade).  I'm finding the rust primarily under the wooden portion of the grips...as though the wood is "sweating" moisture and causing this to happen.

Does anybodu have a practical solution to this?  Does the problem lie with the Mil-Tech oil that I'm using (I understood that it was good stuff)?  There doesn't appear to be a lacquer finish on the underside of the grips (only stained); is this the culprit?

As for removing the rust (surface only so far) is Kroil a good choice?  I've tried Hoppes with limited success.

I'd hate to have to pay for a refinishing job (Robar, etc.), but I'm afraid that's the only other option I have.

thanks for any help or suggestions.
rob

That is odd. I have an Ultra Eclipse II and had no problems with rust like you.


Where and how do you store it?

Quoted: That is odd. I have an Ultra Eclipse II and had no problems with rust like you. Where and how do you store it?

I keep it in my range bag in a gun rug in the closet.  I guess I should expect rust; I know "stainless" steel is a bit of a misnomer, but this is ridiculous.  

Silica Gel maybe?

You probably already know this, but very fine steel wool and gun oil will take rust off stainless.
Now for the method to reduce rust on stainless: Dremel and polishing wheel + flitz metal polish.
Polish the stainless until its smooth as glass. This isn't hard with the flitz and buffing wheel.
The small pores that trap moisture/salt will be smoothed out. You'll be suprised at how much this will help. Worked for me...before I switched to Glocks!

Quoted: Quoted: That is odd. I have an Ultra Eclipse II and had no problems with rust like you. Where and how do you store it? I keep it in my range bag in a gun rug in the closet.  I guess I should expect rust; I know "stainless" steel is a bit of a misnomer, but this is ridiculous.   Silica Gel maybe?

The range bag and the gun rug WILL hold the moisture and cause rust even on stainless steel.... I keep all my stuff in a gun safe on shelves with one of those silica boxes that I change every six months....

Quoted: You probably already know this, but very fine steel wool and gun oil will take rust off stainless. Now for the method to reduce rust on stainless: Dremel and polishing wheel + flitz metal polish. Polish the stainless until its smooth as glass. This isn't hard with the flitz and buffing wheel. The small pores that trap moisture/salt will be smoothed out. You'll be suprised at how much this will help. Worked for me...before I switched to Glocks!

thanks alot!  I'll give it a shot tonight...I always welcome the chance to don my Dremel Warrior outfit

Glock?  I'll take rust anyday over a $500 hand grenade j/k

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: That is odd. I have an Ultra Eclipse II and had no problems with rust like you. Where and how do you store it? I keep it in my range bag in a gun rug in the closet.  I guess I should expect rust; I know "stainless" steel is a bit of a misnomer, but this is ridiculous.   Silica Gel maybe? The range bag and the gun rug WILL hold the moisture and cause rust even on stainless steel.... I keep all my stuff in a gun safe on shelves with one of those silica boxes that I change every six months....

Don't have a safe yet...yeh i know it's stupid.  I'll look for a better spot after I finish removing the rust.

thanks for the help gentlemen.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: That is odd. I have an Ultra Eclipse II and had no problems with rust like you. Where and how do you store it? I keep it in my range bag in a gun rug in the closet.  I guess I should expect rust; I know "stainless" steel is a bit of a misnomer, but this is ridiculous.   Silica Gel maybe? The range bag and the gun rug WILL hold the moisture and cause rust even on stainless steel.... I keep all my stuff in a gun safe on shelves with one of those silica boxes that I change every six months.... Don't have a safe yet...yeh i know it's stupid.  I'll look for a better spot after I finish removing the rust. thanks for the help gentlemen.

keep it away from anything like egg crate, cloth, or even ballistic nylon....


If you get some of those silica packs and keep it in an open range bag you should be ok.....

FLITZ it.

Clean it up w/ FLITZ and you'll probably avoid the "rust-returning" issue for awhile as the FLITZ leaves a protective coating.

You can get it at any decent gun shop.

Mike

After cleaning off the rust try using Eezox for lubrication and rust protection.

eezox.com/gun-care.html

I love this stuff. in my opinion it is the best oil, rust protectant, clp around. I use it to clean my guns after use and before I store them in the safe.

Quoted: FLITZ it. Clean it up w/ FLITZ and you'll probably avoid the "rust-returning" issue for awhile as the FLITZ leaves a protective coating. You can get it at any decent gun shop. Mike

There ya go.  

I would try this first before I break out the Dremel.  Use a rag, little dab will do it.  

Keep rubbing it on the affected areas.  Wipe with a clean rag.  

Keep the "dirty" rag, you can keep reusing it.  Better yet put it in a plastic bag with the Flitz and you always have it.  Flitz works on all types of metal, good for shining/protecting knife blades and bolsters.

Flitz can be purchased at Wal-Mart?  Just trying to avoid shipping costs.

I'll try the Eezox when my supply of Mil-Tech runs out.  I checked their website and everything regarding the product sounds great.

A question for JBRAVO223:  Do you use the spray or the drip/oil?

Quoted: Flitz can be purchased at Wal-Mart?  Just trying to avoid shipping costs. I'll try the Eezox when my supply of Mil-Tech runs out.  I checked their website and everything regarding the product sounds great. A question for JBRAVO223:  Do you use the spray or the drip/oil?

I got some at a gunshow from the knife guy.  

Maybe an auto parts store or even try Home Depot/Lowe's?  

Wal-Mart may have it, never looked.  May be in the auto or household chemicals section?

Thanks for the help.  I'll give the Flitz a try.

Can anybody explain the wood "grip sweat" I'm seeing?

Quoted: You probably already know this, but very fine steel wool and gun oil will take rust off stainless. Now for the method to reduce rust on stainless: Dremel and polishing wheel + flitz metal polish. Polish the stainless until its smooth as glass. This isn't hard with the flitz and buffing wheel. The small pores that trap moisture/salt will be smoothed out. You'll be suprised at how much this will help. Worked for me...before I switched to Glocks!

I would be very careful about that.  Nearly all steel wool is made of carbon steel and you never want to use it on stainless.  It will leave microscopic particles of carbon steel in the grain of the stainless and could exacerbate the problem, regardless of how smooth it may seem.  Maybe buffing will help, but I wouldn't touch stainless with carbon steel wool.

You can get synthetic steel wool substitutes from 3M -- usually at Home Depot in the form of a pad in the sandpaper aisle.  Get the finest grade you can find.

In any case, once you have remedied the problem, give the metal under the grips a good buffing with car wax and that will protect it for a long time as long as the grips stay on.

I tried the flitz "solution" and it did polish the stainless.  There's a few little spots left, but nowhere near as bad as it was.  

Things to consider if anyone else needs to "flitz it":

Take it easy with the polishing...I found that the paste does an excellent job, but unless you want to polish the entire frame (so it'll look the same) lay off the dremel wheel.

Depending on where the rust is (mine was under the grips and under the thumb safety) you'll want to punch as many pins as you can to avoid getting the polishing compound in the pin holes.  (Flitz is pretty damn abrasive and I don't imagine it'd take long for the grit to "waller" out the hole around pins).

Use it sparingly...a little bit goes a long way.

I'm sure to most here this info is common sense, but there are some who I hope this will help.