I have a mod. 66-2 revolver and I would like to know how to tell what letter frame It has? Sorry If there is a simple answere to my ? but I'm new to the whole revolver scene.
Thanks

You have a K-frame. The models 64-68 are all K-frames, IIRC.

The little baby snubbies are J-frames.

The midsized models 581/586/681/686 are L-frames.

The 44mag & other models such as 27/28 are the largest as N-frames.

A wonderful source for all sorts of gun info is "The Blue Book of Gun Values" by S.P. Fjestad. There's no pics but a wealth of info such as dates of mfgr, value, calibers made, etc.

If you want pics then there's such books as "The Shooters Bible" & the like. They're large soft cover editions costing around $20 or so.

It's a fun time to carry around a Blue Book at a gun show & see the look on some dealers face as you're looking at their used gun prices.  

Thanks Bob, I checked a few sites and they told me that it was a K/L but my revolver has a J stamped under the grip so I figured that I would ask before I ordered A grip for it.

Now does anyone know of a good fingergrooved rubber grip for a K framed Smith?

Is your model a 5 or a 6 shot revolver? If it's a 5 shot, then it is indeed a J-frame.

As for grips, I suggest you visit a gun show so you can see the variety of options. My personal suggestion is rosewood fingergroove grips. Rubber grips will snag on clothing if you use it for carry.

My revolver is a 6 shot.  Does the letter stamping mean thats what frame It is?

I'm definately not going to be carrying this gun seeing as it has a 6" barrel, so I just want the most comfortable grips that I can find to (hopefully) tighten up my groups. I found 2 different grips that looked ok.  Has anyone tryed the Hogue monogrip or the Pachmayr Decelerator?

Thanks again

It's a k frame and grips for either the K or L frame will fit.

No, AFAIK the letter stamping on the frame means nothing as far as which size frame it is.

You should really enjoy this gun thru the years.

As a reminder, get it for the "SB", the square butt. Some grip packaging may just say "SB" on it.
Snubby barreled 66's usually have the "RB" or round butt, which won't fit your 6 incher.
Hopefully saving you some grief in your quest, Jesse.

There is no real rule on how to tell what frame size a gun is, you just kind of have to know.  

For example, the M-66 is a K-Frame that is also stainless.  The M-19 is the same gun, only blued.  The M-586 is a blued L-Frame and the 686 is the stainless version of the same gun.  The 24, 25, 27, 28, and 29 are all N-Frame guns, chambered for various cartridges.  Put a 6 in front of the model #s and you have their stainless versions.  

Come to think of it, there might be a rule, someone correct me if I'm wrong here:

1x/6x are K-Frame (10, 15, 19, 63, 67, 66)?
2x/62x are N-Frame (27, 28, 627, 628)?
5-shot .38 is a J-Frame (36LS, 37)
x86 is L-Frame (586/686)
5-shot .44 Spl. is an L-Frame (396)
.500 S&W Mag. is an X-Frame

Don't know if I'm right on this, but it seems to try to pop out.  Can anyone think of anything that breaks my examples?

I never thought that something as simple as changing grips would be this involved.  I guess I'm just used to the AR platform where everything is interchangeable(besides colt)and got spoiled!  

Well I ended up ordering one of the Pachmyer Decelerator grips from Kieslers because the only other grips that I found were Hogue and I just didn't like the looks of theres.  I'll post again after I shoot a few hundred rounds with them and give my opinion.

Thanks to all who replied!  

JesseJames

securitysix - thank you for your posting of the S&W frame naming convention rules.

I'd love to see this tacked in this forum.

Very helpful.

Gonna mail sig 230 now to see if he'll tack this!

Quoted: There is no real rule on how to tell what frame size a gun is, you just kind of have to know.   For example, the M-66 is a K-Frame that is also stainless.  The M-19 is the same gun, only blued.  The M-586 is a blued L-Frame and the 686 is the stainless version of the same gun.  The 24, 25, 27, 28, and 29 are all N-Frame guns, chambered for various cartridges.  Put a 6 in front of the model #s and you have their stainless versions.   Come to think of it, there might be a rule, someone correct me if I'm wrong here: 1x/6x are K-Frame (10, 15, 19, 63, 67, 66)? 2x/62x are N-Frame (27, 28, 627, 628)? 5-shot .38 is a J-Frame (36LS, 37) x86 is L-Frame (586/686) 5-shot .44 Spl. is an L-Frame (396) .500 S&W Mag. is an X-Frame Don't know if I'm right on this, but it seems to try to pop out.  Can anyone think of anything that breaks my examples?

I can think of several that bust your rule.

The model 60 is a J frame, not a K.
The model 547 is a K frame.
The model 584/684 is a L frame.
The model 57 and 58 and 657 are N frame.
The model 610 is a N frame.
There are others.

About the only rule is that "6" equals stainless.  The 60 was their first stainless, and subsequent ones were simply stainless versions of their more pouplar revolvers (i.e. 19=66, etc.)  Once stainless became established, they switched to the "6" being a prefix on the standard blued model number.

The 547, 584, etc were later models that had a three number designation.  The 5 is for blued, and a 6 for stainless (there is only a blue 547).  S&W has retained whatever original number designation went with the product to avoid confusion and maintain product identity.  So even though their numbering scheme changes, there is no change of numbers for models already out.  Confusing if you're trying to find a pattern, but not if you're buying a gun and that's what S&W is worried about.

Ross

and 3 is scandium
also 29 in the model number is a 44 mag.

OK, so I'm wrong.  I can live with that.  I didn't even think of the model 60, which would bust my argument right away.  

As far as 3 being scandium, the 36 and 37 were around before scandium, weren't they?

So there really is no hard and fast rule relating model number to frame size.

What I posted was an observation from my recollection, which left out some things that didn't cross my mind (M-60, for one, which is a J-Frame, as pointed out).  So it isn't right, I was just speculating.  Since I was proven wrong, I have to admit it.  Thanks for the correction.

For Smiths the best thing is to fondle the different fram sizes. After a while you'll be able to tell just by feel.