I can't get the breach block flush with the slide, which of course makes it impossible to install the takedown lever & & slide.





This is the order I'm reassembling per the reverse of the movie below.


1.  Install trigger/take down pin/trigger (with trigger pin)


2.  Install grips


3.  Install breach block & breach lever


4.  Install take down lever


5.  Install slide




 

Would this thread be better in the General Handgun or Gunsmithing forum?

Quick solution.  I emailed Todd with
CustomizedCreationz.com about
half an hour ago.  He called me and I had the trigger pivot pin
installed from the incorrect side.  Make sure it's on the "left," if
your gun is pointed away from you in a safe direction.  You may have to
rotate the trigger pin a little but, but the slot runs from 9 O'clock
to 3 O'clock.  Then with a little downward pressure on the breach
block, it pops down into place.

]





Todd will be getting alot of my business.  Who else calls you less than 15 minutes after you email them?




 

How did you get the youtube link on the thread???

Team members have the option to embed video.



To the OP, it sounds like you have it under control now?

If not post up another question and I'll do my best.




 

I ran into another problem, but Todd with http://www.customizedcreationz.com personally answered all my emails and phone calls.



The problem: While installing a new hammer spring, I couldn't get the hammer/firing pin to complete a cycle (hammer only went to cocked when I pulled the trigger and the firing pin wasn't engaged).



The solution: Decocked, used a screwdriver to apply lateral force rearwards on the


hammer strut. I could feel it click.



Comments (minor cost, major results): The 19-pound hammer spring still


feels a little heavy and a bit "gritty." I was in such a rush to


reassemble I didn't really lubricate the hammer strut/spring.





The gun has been open in a dry environment for so long I should


probably lightly re-lube any pivot point for the trigger, trigger pin,


trigger bar, slide and guide rod. I always try to put a few drops of


lube (Hoppe's #9) on a cotton square, then use that cotton to apply


the lube.





Now I need to gloat. :P It was stock marked with a date of 6/79, 837.


The slide, frame, and barrel all have matching numbers.





After nearly two months of minor I'm up and running (gun was stock).


Here are the improvements:


(Date: 6/79, 837; all match on frame, slide,  and barrel)


- Short trigger, factory black oxide


- Improved guide rod, factory black


- 19-pound hammer spring


- I used a Dremel and a felt cone attachment with three finer grades


of jewelers' rogue to polish feed ramp so it would feed JHP's/flat


nosed bullets


- I also used the Dremel, felt cylinder attachment with the jewelers'


rogue to polish the outside (visible part) of the barrel's chamber.


It's not quite mirrored, but I'm not sure I want it that shiny.


- Basic combat sights #8 front and rear (white square on rear sight


and round white front sight). I was lucky enough for someone to lend


me a sight pusher.





Now that everything is reassembled I'll need to get to the range and


see if the #8 front and #8 rear is what I need to bring my impact up.


I had been shooting low.



The P6 is like a less addictive/expensive 1911.