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Posted: 9/10/2005 9:46:55 AM EDT

I have had a rude awakening lately and I thought 'd share to hopefully make it so folks don't make the same mistake I did.

I realize what happened was negligence on my part that was due to complacency. I got used to carrying IWB nad it got to be like putting on a pager or something benign like that, I got to feeling like my .45 was a self contained unit and more of an accessory to my wardrobe rather than a very important tool I carried for my protection.

After about a month after my last shooting/cleaning I decided to clean it up again. To my horror I saw that the end of my barrel where the frame covered the top there was a ring of rust. My first words were of course "oh shit".

At first I thought it was just crud but it wont come off, definately rust. Now I have to get a new 4" bbl for my Kimber Pro Carry.

Just a heads up for "sweaters" Keep you powder dry and weapon oiled

pardon me while I kick myself, off to the EE.
Link Posted: 9/10/2005 9:49:54 AM EDT
[#1]

Quoted:
At first I thought it was just crud but it wont come off, definately rust. Now I have to get a new 4" bbl for my Kimber Pro Carry.

Just a heads up for "sweaters" Keep you powder dry and weapon oiled

pardon me while I kick myself, off to the EE.



I feel your pain, but you shouldn't need to replace the barrel.  An evening in front of the TV with a bit of oil and a pad of steel wool and you'll be good to go.
Link Posted: 9/10/2005 9:54:25 AM EDT
[#2]
thx cliffy

I tried with my dremel for a short time but got scared I would do more harm than good.

I'll break out the flitz and keep working on it, nothing to lose at this point.

I can honestly say this will never happen again.
Link Posted: 9/10/2005 10:14:43 AM EDT
[#3]
most marine stores sell a cleaner called star bright rust remover spray on and the rust disapers i  thinkit has a week posphic acid or somthing it might be less damaging than abbrasives , or remove the barel and have your jewler hit it on the polish wheel . i have a jewlers set up above my shop
Link Posted: 9/10/2005 11:40:49 AM EDT
[#4]
It's strange.  My glock never develops rust.  Generally it's covered with a good amout of sweat and dried blood too.
Link Posted: 9/17/2005 10:37:37 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
It's strange.  My glock never develops rust.  Generally it's covered with a good amout of sweat and dried blood too.



Every thread CAN be a 1911 vs. Glock thread.
Link Posted: 9/17/2005 10:45:03 AM EDT
[#6]
I used to jog with a S&W 340 Airlite in my pants, after a few weeks it looked terrible.

Remember, one of the most corrosive atmospheres is around the salty ocean, and your sweat has the same amount of salt in it that the ocean does.
Link Posted: 9/17/2005 10:52:07 AM EDT
[#7]
I don't like IWB for that reason.  I don't have any trouble concealing a full size glock with a conventional belt holster in the summer.

That feeling of walnut grips and steel sticking to me used to drive me nuts.
Link Posted: 9/17/2005 11:01:00 AM EDT
[#8]



Sentry Solutions.  Once a week.  Problem solved.
Link Posted: 9/17/2005 2:50:16 PM EDT
[#9]
 Try using a piece of wadded up aluminum foil.  It's an old trick I learned to do when chrome motorcycle exhausts would still blue and rust.


mm
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 7:01:43 AM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:
 Try using a piece of wadded up aluminum foil.



All we have is tin foil in these parts!
Link Posted: 9/25/2005 11:28:57 AM EDT
[#11]
What's rust?
Link Posted: 10/1/2005 10:26:29 AM EDT
[#12]
I carry a blued 1911 IWB and have not had rust problems.  I treat it with Birchwood Casey Sheath every time I clean it, and in between, wipe it down with a CLP-treated cloth.  Eventually I'll have it hard-chromed by Virgil tripp but for now, Sheath and the CLP cloth work just fine.

Another area often neglected is underneath the grip panel which rides against your body.  The area can easily get sweat-soaked and just wiping down the exterior misses this spot.
Link Posted: 10/1/2005 6:36:48 PM EDT
[#13]
Two words!  Stainless Steal...
Link Posted: 10/1/2005 8:04:50 PM EDT
[#14]
Actually, stainless will rust over time as well.

At the gun shop one time, a guy brought in a Sig P232 that he had carried for 10 years, IWB in Phoenix - and never cleaned it. He wanted us to "fix" it for him. All the hardware was was done for, the frame and slide were pitted and rusted over 60% of the left side. It would barely allow the slide to cycle. He was a big, sweaty NYC transplant Italian guy.

He asked us if we could give him "trade-in" value for it. I told him he'd have to pay me for HAZ-MAT waste disposal, before I'd touch it.

Guys, take care your your tools. Your life may just depend on it one day.......
Link Posted: 10/3/2005 1:15:28 AM EDT
[#15]
I discovered this problem when I carried a parkerized 1911 inside the waist band. It took less than a day to have rust all over the slide( a very hot day and I was in it from sun up till sundown). I now have all of my 1911s GunKoted and rust is no longer a problem.
Link Posted: 10/3/2005 3:04:08 AM EDT
[#16]

Quoted:
Actually, stainless will rust over time as well.




True but if you clean the surface once a week or so you will never have a problem.  SS won't rust in a day or even a week thats why it is used in the food industry.
Link Posted: 10/3/2005 6:39:43 AM EDT
[#17]
I'm glad I carry a GLOCK
Link Posted: 10/3/2005 1:15:15 PM EDT
[#18]
If you carry in leather do not leave you weapon in it for extended periods. The leather absorbs moisture. A weekly cleaning will make this a none issue though.
Link Posted: 10/3/2005 1:19:49 PM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:
I'm glad I carry a GLOCK



+1

Link Posted: 10/3/2005 6:29:34 PM EDT
[#20]

Quoted:
What's rust?



I was wondering the same thing...
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