I just bought a SAR-1 and SAR-2 last Friday and hopefully they will be here next week.  I want to make both as close to the real thing as possible - minus full auto that is :).  What do I need to do to them?  I want a standard AK-47 with the SAR-1 and an AKS-74 for the SAR-2.  Can some list what is needed for this?  Brakes, stocks, etc...  I know I need to have the barrel threaded for the slant brake on the SAR-1, but what else?  ANy help or push in the right direction would be appreciated.

Thanks -  Shon

BTW, is there a barrel brake-in procedure for the AK like on the chrome barreled AR?

Barrel break in for an AK is as follows.

1)Load magazine.
2)Insert magazine
3)Pull trigger - watch dirt fly down range.

Barrel is now broken in.

For the SAR-2, you will need a new front sight base, and the proper muzzle break.  These must be Romanian as the other countries have different specs to their rifles. You must have one more American made part to legally have the break attached.

As for the SAR-1, it depends on which AK-47 varient you want.  I have left mine as-is.  You could go the cheap route and buy a $10 screw on slant comp and have it both ways.  Just make sure the set screw is tight.

I guess, after looking around the web, I want an AKM variant of the AK-47.  I guess this version had the slant brake?  I could maybe go to the AK-103 version, but really don't know what cost would be involved in this and do like the wood.  As for the AKS-74, where can I get the parts I need and what part could be changed out to suffice the US parts issue?

-- Shon

I am not exactly sure which parts you would need for an AK-103.  I know there are others here who can help you with that.

For parts, you can try k-var, or maybe SKSman.com, or even rpb.

To get the extra U.S. made part you can get a new gas piston. (hard way to do it) or get an American made buttstock, and or the front handgard and gas piston guard. Those two count as one part. You could just get a new stock set from K-Var or ironwood designs if you like the wood better than plastic. Black plastic and the Plum plastic (polymer) stocks are "Warsaw Pact" issue as well.

I have finally received my two SARs (a 1 and 2)from Aim Surplus.  Must say they are, well SARs.  The SAR-1 stock is slightly smaller than the SAR-2 stock, but none the less, both are in excellent working order.  Cosmetically ugly, but in good working order.  I have a few questions about them:

1.  What to use to clean them with?  Both have a lot of oil and the SAR-2 has some cosmoline in/on the gas tube.  I want them completely cleaned of all grease and oil and add my own.  I think I read where someone suggested brake cleaner?

2.  Is it ok to use Shooters Choice or Hoppes to clean the barrel?  I use SC to clean my M1 and non-chrome barreled AR.  Will either of these hurt the chrome lined barrel?  I know there is some issue with cleaners containing ammonia and chrome lined barrels.

3.  My .30 and .223 cal brushes should work, right?

4.  How do I take the lower handguard off without trashing it?  I want to refinish the rifle (really scuffed up with metal showing through) and do not want to put it in the oven with the handguard on. Also, what color should the wood furniture be?  I see several folks say they stained the wood, but don't mention what color stain they used.

Sorry for the book, but I like to take care of my rifles.  These are in excellent shape and are good project guns.  Thanks for the help.

-- Shon

Quoted: 1.  What to use to clean them with?  Both have a lot of oil and the SAR-2 has some cosmoline in/on the gas tube.  I want them completely cleaned of all grease and oil and add my own.  I think I read where someone suggested brake cleaner?

Everyone had their own ideas about what will work.  I run a few patches throught the brake to get the major portion of it out, then use carburator cleaner. Brake cleaner would probably work just as well. Some guys put their rifle in the oven to bake it out!

2.  Is it ok to use Shooters Choice or Hoppes to clean the barrel?  I use SC to clean my M1 and non-chrome barreled AR.  Will either of these hurt the chrome lined barrel?  I know there is some issue with cleaners containing ammonia and chrome lined barrels.

Personally I use Hoppes, but I have never heard of any problems with any type of bore cleaner. I would use what ever I had on hand.

3.  My .30 and .223 cal brushes should work, right?

You can use them, but sometimes I find the .30 cal. brushes too small.  I use the .30/8mm combo brushes from Wal-Mart. The .30 cal.  brush should work just fine though.

4.  How do I take the lower handguard off without trashing it?

Take the cleaning rod off. Take the rifle apart. Take the gas tube off.
Looking down at the lower handguard from the top, in the front right corner on the inside of the handguard, there should be a small lever. Pry it upwards. Then slide the metal piece forward. You should be able to wiggle the handguard forward until it comes off. Once you do it once, it is easy.

Sorry for the book, but I like to take care of my rifles.  These are in excellent shape and are good project guns.  Thanks for the help. -- Shon

No problem, glad to help. We all had the same questions at one time as well.

Brake cleaner is just bad to breathe, so I prefer the oven on low (buttstock off) or laying it on cardboard in my trunk on a warm sunny day.
Just avoid long term ammonia contact to avoid flaking the chrome; read the solvent labels. Heck an AK will be happy with fresh motor oil as CLP.
Relaxing and using a marker to touch up finish dings is part of the appeal of a SAR, and you can blast/park/paint later if you choose.

One more thing on the ammonia, don't leave it in an unlined barrel for more than 15 minutes, ammonia will cause "crazing", which is microscopic pitting.  Works great for neutralizing the salts in corrosive ammo though.

Great!  Thanks much for that info folks.  I use Shooters Choice and Hoppes because it can be left in overnight to help solidify the copper fouling.  I occasionally use their copper cutter (per the instructions) because of the FMJ I shoot.  Didn't know if this was a no-no for the AK because of the chrome lining.  Again, thanks!

Another question though, is there an issue with oil/grease and chamber pressures as there is with my AR/M1 (actually any tight chambered rifle) as far as the AK is concerned?  Or is the AK tolerances such that this is not a real problem?  I greased the hammer face to help deal with the metal to metal contact with the bolt and the ammo picked some of it up when charging the weapon.  Don't need it blowing up in my face...

Last one (for now), I am looking at converting the SAR-2 to an AKS-74.  Anyone know what the actual barrel length is on a real AKS (I love to collect battle rifles)?

Again, thanks very much for the help.  This board helped me big time in the selection of my AR and the optics I chose and help with the AK is been no less.  Thanks again.

-- Shon

Brake cleaner will strip the cosmoline right off but wear rubber gloves as it will mess your hands up.  Go to Autozone, Checker or Walmart and buy the cheapest brand.

Another way to clean it is to take the wood off. take it outside and pour boiling water on it.  Then Scrub it with hot soapy water.  Then rinse with boiling water.  Use your favorite bore cleaner on the barrel, run patches through to clean out the bore, and get some 30w non-detergent motor oil to lube it with.  30W non-detergent motor oil can be bought at Ace hardware and it is about $1.19 for a quart. It will last along time and Bushmaster recommends it for their AR-15's. Ain't gonna hurt your AK and it is cheap.  If you want some synthetic grease like that expensive red shit for .45's for your rails, go to Checker Auto and they have those big grease gun tubes which I use for my truck.  Fill a babyfood jar and you have enough to last you years for your AK and all of your automatic pistols ($4.00 for a big tube).

You can also use kerosene to clean your guns. For the price of a jar of Hoppes you can probably get a gallon of Kerosene.  

Go to Linx310's sight and learn all kinds of stuff about Romanian AK's http://linx310.nothingbutguns.com/