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Posted: 10/6/2005 8:36:42 PM EDT
ok, so I installed my tapco G2 FCG that I got today and noticed something bad when I reinstalled my saftey lever. Now whenever I raise the saftey lever up it will hit the back of the disconnector and cause the hammer to drop. Obviously something is not right, what did I do wrong?
Pics of two disconectors. Tapco right, Origional Maadi on left. 
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Posted: 10/6/2005 9:38:20 PM EDT
[#1]
OOW receiver?
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Posted: 10/6/2005 9:38:55 PM EDT
[#2]
My Tapco G2 disconecter looks like that maddi one, smooth on the rear.
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Posted: 10/6/2005 9:41:18 PM EDT
[#3]
I think he has them mixed. He is describing both disconnectors as the left one. |
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Posted: 10/6/2005 9:43:08 PM EDT
[#4]
That crossed my mind after I hit submit. Ok well, now I just dont know, but good luck. |
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Posted: 10/6/2005 9:50:15 PM EDT
[#5]
I think the problem is that they are all fuzzy. And so is your table.
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Posted: 10/6/2005 10:51:40 PM EDT
[#6]
you have a f/a selector
grind it down to semi and prob solved |
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Posted: 10/6/2005 10:53:36 PM EDT
[#7]
pretty sure the tapco disconnector is the one on the right. |
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Posted: 10/6/2005 11:00:47 PM EDT
[#8]
post a pic of your selector please
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Posted: 10/7/2005 1:28:26 AM EDT
[#9]
Socandy, hit it right. Thats a FA disconnector on the left, Are you sure you didnt get em mixed up? Try it with both and see which one works, If they are not right, Give tapco a call. They do have good customer service.....
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Posted: 10/7/2005 6:48:35 AM EDT
[#10]
yeah, I mislabeled them. G2 one on right, maadi on left. Pics of selector to follow.
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Posted: 10/7/2005 6:59:03 AM EDT
[#11]
selector pics
   
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Posted: 10/7/2005 7:21:04 AM EDT
[#12]
Which receiver? It sounds to me like an OOW where the selector hole is low and the bottom of the selector needs to be notched.
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Posted: 10/7/2005 7:22:39 AM EDT
[#13]
I need to know this also, I have my M92 yugo kit, and I am going to buy the tapco FCG, do I need to cut down my selector as well?
if I do, where do I cut it? pics of a full auto and semi next to each other would be nice to compare. |
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Posted: 10/7/2005 7:24:49 AM EDT
[#14]
thats what I was about to get at.. With my AMD build I had to file down the selector. |
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Posted: 10/7/2005 7:27:59 AM EDT
[#15]
ok, what do you have to file down????
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Posted: 10/7/2005 8:01:00 AM EDT
[#16]
file a small notch out of the bottom right of the selector, where it is hitting the right side of the trigger (the thing that the hammer spring presses down on), if you are using an OOW.
But that wouldn't cause the problem you describe...  make sure you use the correct hook (the one with out a tail) |
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Posted: 10/7/2005 10:25:39 AM EDT
[#17]
This AK was bought complete from a dealer. It is a Maadi ARM. I bought this G2 kit so I could take off this crapy thumbhole stock and use a US Kvar pistol Grip stock. There was also this short fat spring(different from the disc. spring) thing underneath the disconnector that I have not seen on any online parts diagrams or exloded views, do I put it back in or what?
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Posted: 10/7/2005 10:46:45 AM EDT
[#18]
Whats an OOW? When I use the Maadi disconnector, everything is fine. that little tab on the back prevents the selector from hitting the top part of the disconnector and keeps the hammer from falling. But on the G2 one the selector hits the curved part of the disconnector and causes the hammer to fall. My two solutions look like to cut a notch in the bottom of the selector so it doesn't hit the disconnector, or to weld a tab simmilar to the one on the maadi disc to the G2 one. |
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Posted: 10/7/2005 11:09:32 AM EDT
[#19]
Sounds like the selector is hitting part of the new trigger, not the disconnector. I cant think of any possible way that a disconnector without a tail could cause this problem. The old disconnector couldnt have kept the selector from hitting the top of the disconnector, because the selector would never get to the top of the disconnector until it was raised up WAY past safe (not to mention with the old parts it wouldnt be able to go fully into the safe position).
Can you get a pic of the inside, right before it would cause the hammer to release? |
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Posted: 10/7/2005 11:36:31 AM EDT
[#20]
Ok, here are some pics..
This is at SAFE. The red arrow shows the selector over the trigger. This keeps the back of the trigger from moving up. This selector is cut, but the green arrow shows where yours would be, right behind the first step on the old disconnector, or 1/8" behind the new selector.  Again, at SAFE, your selector should not hit the trigger where the red arrow is. If it does you'll need to cut down the selector slightly. At the green arrow, with the new selector, it should still be like 1/8" from contact.  This is with the selector level raised way past safe, as if to remove it. This is what i suspect you're talking about, not simply moving it to safe. As you can see the selector has to be well above SAFE before it should contact the disconnector.  Either this is what you're talking about, and you dont have a problem, or your selector is way out of spec, and bent forward, or too long and its hitting the trigger at the red arrow. The problem isnt the disconnector, unless i'm really missing something. |
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Posted: 10/7/2005 11:50:59 AM EDT
[#21]
Thanks, I need to cut a notch in my selector. I'll post pics when I'm finished
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Posted: 10/7/2005 2:23:31 PM EDT
[#22]
I have a Maadi ARM in which I replaced the original FCG with a FSE. I had to file a notch on the left side of the selector bottom tab before it would work. Without the notch the selector tab would hit the rear of the disconnector, preventing the installation of the safety selector. Once the notch was filed to the right dimension the safety went in no problem. I had to do the some on my Romanian build also, with has a G2 FCG. Both safety selectors are the original ones. I only removed enough metal that would allow the tab to clear the disconnector. Now both selectors work perfectly.
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Posted: 10/7/2005 3:42:46 PM EDT
[#23]
A dremmel works great for this. I've had to do it as well. |
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Posted: 10/7/2005 3:55:19 PM EDT
[#24]
There's another way to fix the problem, when you put in the select lever rotate it to the rear instead of forward and raise it up over the rivets and the lever stop by the triggerguard ...
OR Put in the Select lever first(which kinda gets in the way) and then drop the trigger assembly in ... |
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Posted: 10/7/2005 4:56:12 PM EDT
[#25]
I had to rotate it backwards to get it out in the first place. It works the way it is in now but when lifted, like to take it out, it hits the disconnector and causes the hammer to drop. Even though with the top cover in place I can't lift it up that high, I still don't like the idea of the hammer falling at all when the saftey is lifted (even if it is way past where it would be normally). File and die grinder here I come. |
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Posted: 10/7/2005 6:11:41 PM EDT
[#26]
It would have to go like 2 inches past the top cover to do this. It cant happen unless you're taking it apart, and you should have the weapon unloaded at that point. Like I said, you dont have a problem per se. If you want to notch the selector, feel free, but all its doing is making it easier to take out, not fixing some inherent problem with the parts. Just want to be clear so people dont start thinking they have some problem with their rifle if it does the same thing. Good luck. |
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Posted: 10/7/2005 9:31:02 PM EDT
[#27]
yea, what he said....
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