the mount simply slides on the rail's dovetail untill it stops moving forward and contacts against the travel stop that is built into the rail.

the swing clamp is rotated approximately 180° to lock the mount on the rail.

the locking pressure may require adjustment as most of the rails vary in size. odds are, your locking pressure will be either too loose or too tight as it was delivered from the factory.

all the mounts, while varying slightly in there construction details, operate on the same principle.

they 'pinch' or sqweeze against the rail when tightened by rotating the lever.

consider the lever as a screw...and that lever/screw has a 'nut' of some sort on the bottom.

to add clamping tension, the 'nut' must be tightened up a little on the lever/screw.

to reduce clamping pressure, the 'nut' must be backed off (uscrewed from the lever's threads) a bit.

on some mounts, the nut is just that...a plain, simple hex nut (usually of the self-locking variety).

on other mounts, the 'nut' is a hook shaped piece of cadmium plated steel that is captured by a retainer plate. the retainer plate must be slide/pryed out of place before the 'nut' can be loosened or tightened.

i'll see if i can dig up tantal's adjustment instructions and post the link here.

tantal.kalashnikov.guns.ru/pso/clamp_adjustments.htm

aaaaarrrgggh!

ok...the OPTIC RAIL!!! now i'm on the same page.

notice the circular cutout on the bottom of your rail? this is clearance for you hammer pivot pin head. the rail is mounted front-to-rear with that relief cutout approximately centered about the pin axis.

if you email k-var, they should have an instruction sheet that provides you with the exact hole locations for your milled receiver/rail combination.

lacking those, you can transfer hole locations directly from your optic rail to the receiver with a set of transfer punches. when drilling the rivet holes, keep the drill bit undersized from the rivet shank size a thousandth or two...that bit will 'overdrill' just a bit. although the rivet shank will expand its' diameter as it is set, a 'tight' hole is a good thing when it comes to a scope mount.

it is important to get the rail mounted as close to parallel with the bbl. bore axis as is possible, but must of us get acceptable results by leveling the rail with the top edge of the receiver. use dial vernier calipers to measure how level the rail is in relationship to that surface.

it is also critical that you set the rivets very tightly. if they are loose or not tightly set, the scope/rifle will exhibit poor windage results when sighted in.

if k-var fails to come thru with a drawing/instructions for you...try might tantal ( [email protected] ) for one. please keep in mind that the mount he sells may be different than k-var's, but the principles of installation is the same.