I know that anything they turn out rifle wise is shit, but I have heard from several people that the Hesse AK receivers are actually pretty good for building on and are actually truer to Combloc spec than OOW.  Anybody here built on one?  How about our local experts?  Campy, Rot, Troy, Mike?

I am thinking about building my next kit on one if there are positive reviews.  Joeken has the Hesse receiver that is supposedly heat treated throughout, parked, has the trigger guard, rails, mag release and rear trunion installed.  I figure I can just have my smith rivet in the barrel assembly and I can take it from there.

With the condition of the 74 kits, and the receiver parked, I figure I can build one on the cheap and use it as a blaster.  Save my Inrange gun as a trophy piece.  I know, Troy considers his guns to be shooters...  I look at them as art work.

Thanks Campy, it would be a Bulgarian kit.

Edited to add, on this particular one, the rear trunion has already been installed as have the rails, trigger guard and mag release.

I have built on several of them. The main thing is check the rails. Some of the early ones came out with canted rails. At an angle from front to rear. I've only seen two like this and they were replaced. Also keep in mind what Campy said. It would be a good one to build on. I do prefer to use them for 7.62 rifles only.

Troy Sellars
IN RANGE inc.

Does this mean you can NOT build a 74 kit on the Hesse?  I thought I read somewhere that either could be built on them, but always wondered if there would be an issue with the length of the rails.  Not being so mechanically inclined I don't know what, if any, and how serious a difference this makes.

Yes you can build a 74 on them. As said earlier it is more work. There is also slop in the magwell because it is for the 7.62 mag. it dosen't cause a problem though, it stil locks up when you use a 5.45 trunion.

Troy Sellars
IN RANGE inc.

Well, Humph,  
  I've built 3 '74's on hess receivers. As well as two Krinks.  You do not have to build up the ejector.  Select a small punch and peen the ejector tab in the "web" between the rail and the tip of the ejector.  The metal will exturde out and the ejector will be able to reach the case of the 74 ammo.  Do it a step at a time so as not to over pean the web.  It works just fine, no welds no milling and best, no spoiled heat treat...
  The bad side.  I've noticed the heat treat is not going well on some receivers.  Had one shatter like glass every time a rivet was set. No, I set these just like all the others I've ever set. Never had this happen before. Cracked all over the place.  Then one of the rails borke off.  I wouldn't have believed it, had it not happened to me.  This is the first bad hesse revceiver I have ever seen.  The other eight or so were great.
 I haven't had any loose mags.  Maybe it's just how I set them up or something.  I like Hesse, but this is a set back.  Any warranty on them???  Somehow I have a hard time imagining Jokens will take it back....

Actually, in my several conversations I have had with Joe from Joeken he told me if there was ever a problem with a Hesse product they sold they would take it back, stand behind it.  Contact them and ask.

LOL, whatever you just said Campy...  I'm lucky if I can get the mag in and chamber a round...  OK, I'm not THAT dysfunctional when it comes to mechanics... but you get the idea!

As Requested: Ejector modification for the TIG welder impaired.
  The theory is that if you take a punch and strike the ejector halfway between the tip and the base at the rail, it will be squeezed and the tip will be pushed away from the area you punch.  This will cause the ejector to "stretch" and move the tip deeper into the ejector groove in the bolt face.  I hope everyone is still with me here.  (sometime a Command of the english I have not :-)
#1.) Clamp a piece of bar stock in your vise that will support the ejector for peening.  You want to try to avoid bending it.
#2.) Find a punch, even an ordinary nail set punch is about the correct size and strength.  Make sure it has a flat end.
#3.) Locate the area to use the punch on.  It is kind of hard to describe. Select a spot 1/2 way between the rail edge and the tip of the ejector. Mark it.  Now you should have a line on your ejector parallel to the rail, half way between the edge of the rail where it extends to become the ejector and the tip of the ejector where the case makes contact. On that line, pick a spot at least 1/16 inch in from the edge of the ejector on the front trunion side. You don't want to thin the ejector on that edge, you want to hit it so the edge remains the original thickness.  
#4.)  Strike the punch with some enthusiasm as you would a center-punch.
#5.)  Check you progress.   One good hit should be enough.  If over done, trim with a file.
I did this.  I've burned 1 1/2 cases of 5.45 through my Krink with no effect on the ejector. It should work fine.  However some Hesse receivers have exhibited a tendency to be brittle.  I cannot be sure this will always be your best choice, but it worked for me.