2 of those rifles are too long....just sayin

Or is one rifle too short? I'm partial to velocity.
I better go back to hiding, I'll get mobbed for liking 16" barrels more than short barrels.

12.5" is the "ideal short length" for me in both 5.56 and 5.45.

I see no real issues with them in the 500y envelope, enough velocity to do things and with the proper round it's not a big issue. The FPS drop from 14.5>12.5 is not that bad actually.

I'm going to get 500 rounds through this then determine if I cut to 12.5-13" and stamp or 14.5 and pin on a YHM mount.

At this juncture in time I think the latter option will be my path forward. Most likely add the KNS piston as well.

The handguard sucks, been waiting on a MI rail or RS rail to become available (started looking a month ago) as I don't like this one. That was known before purchase and I planned already to replace. Should have a LaRue LT661 mount arriving today/tomorrow and will toss a H1 on it and call it a day. Would like to get a OG galil stock but they seem to be sold out due to plug and play swap with the Ace. Really like the factory stock so no complaints there.

hope to hit the range Sunday.

Walked into my LGS and saw it staring at me so I had to have it! After lurking forever I finally decided to get a can for my AK104 clone. I know its not the quietest can however its good enough for my purpose plus the PBS-1 looks badass. Now the wait begins!!!!

Excellent!

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It's time to show mine, a pre2018europeanban original 100% military Zastava M92 (2013 issue)with TWS cover, and KNS piston, Ase ultra suppressor from Finland. Best AK SBR ever. Works like real military weapon with autosear attached and only castrated disconnector to make it legally semi auto. I bought mine a month before the ban.
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nice!

Thank you. Where a lot of anti weapon propaganda in Europe and European commision try to limit more and more a legislation making it harder to possess a military style weapons. We don't have something like your second amendment to protect us. But strangely some limitations are more restrictives in the USA than in Europe. For exemple the suppressors. They are no more restricted at all and buying them does not require any permit nor licence.

My three holes Saiga 9. Looks alike  american made Ak 9mm, but  with an auto sear
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Strangely is sold as semi automatic civil use only rifle, also with shortened disconnector

I bought a 9mm suppressor for 375 caliber hunting rifle and use it at three rifles at the same time. My Zastava M92, Saiga9 and SVD 308 Tigr. It works perfectly with all of them

That's way cool - thanks for sharing.

Ugh - what I'd give to own an SVD...I envy you.

Going green and I like it compared to the all black before. Magpul doesn’t seem to make the MOE+ grip in OD anymore unfortunately

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Anyone have a Kalashnikov USA KP-9 and run it suppressed?

Wondering which suppressor to throw on mine.

I'm your huckleberry

Gost M in long config for maximum suppression, but I also like the Omega 9K

Ooo I dig that set up.

I have to say, this KP-9 is built really well.

I'm impressed.

Have you grouped yours yet? Mine gets 1 to 1.5 inch groups at 50 yards

https://russianoptics.net/ZenRifles-KR-9.html

Haven't taken it out yet, but that's really awesome.

This thing looks so good - I mean, obviously looks aren't everything, but this is one really badass little AK variant.

Can already tell this is going to be fun to shoot.

I have one of those Russian Delta Tek Vityaz flash hiders in the mail - curious to see how well it works when it arrives.

My GF3 is concentric and lines up perfectly with a drill rod, ASR FH and Saker

What KNS piston are you guys using on the suppressed 106URs..  They have a lot of different options.  There is the 5.45 Bulgarian Krink (AGP-A-19) I’m thinking this is the one but just wanted to see which ones everyone was using.

I would recommend measuring rather than going by the word of a rando on a forum.

Ordered a Dead Air Wolfman for my KP-9.

The wait has begun...

@judge_joe_brown

My 106U uses the 7.62 krink piston (AGP-A-3), and every other 106U owner who's installed a KNS piston I've talked to has the same experience.  Specifically, I got the AGP-A-3S, which has the smaller gas hole in front.  They have another version with a larger gas hole in the front for larger calibers.  The bulgarian 5.45 one is for sure the wrong size.  I can say that for a fact because I was dumb enough to buy it myself, then realize I picked up the wrong one.  The 106 series uses a lot of 7.62 spec parts like the fatter bolt tail, and apparently the gas piston sizing is also 7.62.

That said, you are best off just measuring it yourself to be sure, like the poster below you said.  When I measured mine the A-3 one was the correct size.

I was about to grab a 24mm to 1/2 adapter to suppress my 106U with a Resonator K, but then I remembered that the krink barrel is like 8.25 or whatever, and the Resonator has a length restriction of 10.5".

Given that the resonator is a 30 cal suppressor I'd think it should be OK, but I'm a little worried.  I doubt it would pop the can but it will be really hard on the baffle.  I was thinking of getting a wolverine at some point so maybe I should just wait for that instead.

Are any of you guys running a supressor with a nominal 10.5" limit on a krink, and if so can you say if there were any issues?

My AK hosts.



edit- anyone know why the site is converting my img tags into a url link to the image? The preview always looks correct but when you view the thread, all you see are the URL of the image to click on.

7.62x39 basically the same thing as 300 BLK. If it can take 10.5" 7.62x51, there is no way a krink length barrel will hurt it.

Yeah but my krinks are 5.45 and 5.56

I am thinking of buying a SiCo Omega 36M and putting it on a WBP Mini Jack. How can I check concentricity before actually having the suppressor in my hands? What would the Griffin 14x1LH to 5/8x24 adapter do for me besides change the thread pitch? This is my first can purchase and I have several different firearms to suppress and I'd like to stick with one can. I think the over-sized bore will help me as well.

You can't but if it means anything my minijack was perfectly concentric out of the box.

edit- idea, if you have another can, use adapters to put it on the mini-jack and test concentricity with that can

That's great news. I bought the Griffin adapter and an ASR flash hider. My gunsmith has a few direct thread cans he'll be able to try out on the 5/8x24 threads. The 36M will be my first suppressor and it will work with all of my firearms that have muzzle threads.

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Spent a while correcting my new Fox rifle and a couple others. Figured out a technique using the Brownells muzzle kit that helped a lot.

Went from this -
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To this -

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SoundFX

Can you elaborate on the procedure and products used to achieve what you did?  Thanks

Sure.  I used this Manson kit I bought from Brownells years ago.  The two pilot kit is what I have, which covers most everything I would likely need.

As for the technique, that's what caused a lot of frustration until I figured out the trick to it.  Obviously, with something like this you want to understand the kit and go slowly.  It's easy to mess things up and make it worse if you aren't careful.

That said -

1)  I would do an initial light pass with the 0 degree cutter.  Just to take the edges down a little bit.  Have a brush handy to keep the cutters clean and use some oil.  This first pass isn't to achieve a final result, but you should check with your can and alignment rod because you might get lucky.

2) You probably didn't get the desired results on this first pass.  That's ok.  But carefully examine how the bore exit looks when you mount your can and have the alignment rod in it this time after the initial cut.  Where is the can leaning?  If the rod is biased toward a certain direction, then you know that the muzzle has too much material that you don't want on the opposite end.  Probably goes without saying but this advice will only work with cans / adapters that index off the face of the muzzle....

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Take my pic as an example. I manipulated the pic to make it look like the fsb is straight up.   Imagine looking at the rifle from the muzzle and envision it as a clock.  My suppressor was out of alignment in my pic because there's too much material on the muzzle in the area of 4-5 o'clock (again, imagine looking at it where the fsb is straight up at 12 o'clock).  That's why the alignment rod appears to be closest to the edge of the suppressor bore exit at that clocking.

3) Do another pass with the cutter.  But this time put more pressure on the (for my example, it was around 4-5 o'clock) region of the muzzle as you turn the cutter handle.  I imagine I started applying increased pressure perhaps an "1-1.5 hours" on either side of the peak of the offending "time".  Not gorilla pressure by any means, but not totally insignificant either.  It's not a race, don't rush it.  So it's just using the cutter with very gentle pressure on most of the circular motion, but adding targeted pressure in the region of the muzzle that you wish to take down a little.  

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4) Check your work often, especially if it's the first attempt.  It can be a frustrating experience at first until you get the hang of it and see how your varying hand pressure translates into results.

Keep the cutter head CLEAN.  Brush out the hair-like chips of steel that come off, and do so often.  Use that oil (I just used 3-in-1 and it was fine).  

Go slow, check often.  Be patient, and don't apply too much pressure.  The cutters are pretty good and don't require much force to be effective and you'll get chatter if you try to rush.    

Good luck, hope it works for you like it did for me, and happy pewing.  :)

Great post
That's pretty close to what I did on the Tiger to get it concentric with the Tranquillo. Slow and easy, checking it often

OP I think I just jizzed in my pants. Awesome Ak's.  I have not suppressed my M70 yet so not worthy of posting.

SoundFX

Thanks for that very detailed post. This info should be a sticky at the top of this section.

Very well done!

My pleasure. I just got my first can (that Wolverine) last week and was pretty sad to have none of my AK’s look very good with the alignment rod. After a bit of brainstorming and some experimentation it worked out. I hope it helps others who find themselves in the same spot.

Slr104 cut down to 14.5 with a folder conversion. Has a asr FH pin and weld.

ACC krink can that i made an indexing notch in to lock out with the flash hider pin

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and with the MWI hand guard...

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Well, I've been sitting on my tax stamp for over a year, but finally got around to getting the barrel of my Saiga 7.62x39 removed and depopulated to send out for threading. I assume given how horribly overgassed AKs are that I don't need to worry about enlarging the gas port on a 12.5'' SBR?

I'm excited to finally be getting my communist deer rifle project finished at last!

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This thread has been inspiring!
I've been wanting to form 1 my amd65 and suppress it.
@tex-zen what did it take to get the tranquillo brake on the commie threads?
The Larue tranquillo suppressor is what I want to put on it.

Still waiting on my Wolfman - has been pending since February 5th.

Going to throw it on my KP-9 once it's out of jail. Can't wait!

Homebrew Form 1 can on a KeyMo adapter and using a DeadAir AK flash hider. With the brake silver soldered on it comes to dead nuts 16.1". Looking forward to shooting it, alignment rod is slightly to the 2 o'clock position but still clears.