Post em if you have em. Your own suppressors and .mil welcome



In late 2023 the green rattle can came out, and I won't lie - I love it
Tig-IR + 1P78 Kashtan on the 105 and a Skeet-IR X on the Arsenal in front of the Browe
Larue Tranquillo on the Tiger, Vox K on the 105 and Sandman K on the Arsenal



This was from a while ago but I think I have more AKs suppresssed now than I did then. Don't let anyone tell you that you can't suppress AKs. You definitely can, but it's trickier, and not all of them can be suppressed. Most of them can however. Just be careful, do your research and triple test and triple check everything


2022:
Scored an AK12 and am only beginning the testing but its off to a good start. In 2023 I actually have an approved Form 1 for an AK12K SBR, so we'll see how that goes
















2023: The KR9 is been a solid varmint gun. I switch between the Eotech and the Novus Vzor-1 red dot clone (MDS-3), and the actual Vzor-1 you see in the lower right


MDS-3 red dot, Wilcox clip on thermal mount in front, Omega 9K and a Klesch 2 IR on the KR9
Rugged Micro and some white light version of Klesch on the ZenitCo AKSU


Vzor-1 and the Skeet or Voodoo S actually work believe it or not. It would be better to have a magnifier, but due to the low recoil of the KR9 I won't get scope eye being pushed in a little close. Since this is a varmint gun and not a CQB rifle to protect against Antifa, I can accept slightly trickier ergonomics or sight picture than I would with my personal defense rifles


Updated 2021:
AK105 with Perst 3, ZenitCo B33 top cover, B10u lower HG and Ultimak gas tube rail, with modified ModButton pressure switch for Perst 3. Also lucked into an AK74M3 modernized buttstock and PG

KUSA KR-9 with OKP-7 optic, Perst 3 and Ghost-M in short configuration


AK105 with Sandman K + E-Brake, ZenitCo Perst 2 laser, Skeet-IR and Kashtan 2.8x


With TigIR clip on thermal and Vox S suppressor


Sandman K with PEQ15 and Browe BTO optic


Repainted the Browe and an AK12 mag with a new style of 'Syrian' camo I'm experimenting with






With Vzor-1 red dot

Sandman K with DBAL A4



My back window doubles as my hunting blind


Griffin M4SDK modified to Dead Air KeyMo mount by ECCO Machining



2024 RPK74M ZenitCo goodness
It's true, Kashtan is in fact my favorite Russian optic closely followed by the 1P87 and Obzor, but unfortunately Obzor isn't compatible with clip on thermal optics
Kashtan is very similar to an ACOG in function and use, but definitely not a clone





Sandman K, 762SDN-6, SOCOM762, Wolverine


SOCCOM 762




AK103 with Obzor and Rugged Micro 30


Sandman K



Griffin M4SD-K (bottom) and Mini 4 (top)


Dead Air PBS-1 Wolverine with 1P63 Obzor




Browe BTO-RS with Wolverine





SGL31 with ZenitCo B10M+B33 topcover, DBAL A3 and Kashtan 1P with AAC Mini 4 5.56


Old style AKM

Modern AK103





Auzie's RPK74



1PN51







With TA31GH and TNVC PVS14. This was an old config I fooled around with in the early days. It works but you have to leave the PVS14 attached or the zero will obviously shift without it




AAC 51T Brakeout 2 with Griffin 24x1.5 adapter


With NPZ PN22K Gen 3 Day/Night


Mini 4

PBS-1


SOCOM 7.62 RC and 1P63 Obzor



1PN93


AKSU with ZenitCo B11 Handguard. This is a tight little package and very handy. Holosun does not interfere with 1PN93






















View of the Kashtan reticule through the Tig. Say what you want about Russian optics not being designed to work with night vision or thermal, but for me a number of the more modern ones like Kashtan and 1P87 have been remarkably effective, and oddly have the same height as western optics


5.45x39 gets it done BTW
I've sent hundreds of hogs to swine valhalla over the years with simple 7N6 and even Hornady Black. Like any caliber good shot placement is important for DRT hits like in this photo, but two or three random hits on a hog running after the sounder busts will usually put them down. I've never seen hogs call for evac or pop an IFAIK, so you can be reasonably sure if they do happen to run off they won't be coming back

Question for you guys who have gone down this road.

I’m kicking around the idea of putting a KNS piston in my Yugo and turning it into a host for my Sandman.

My barrel has 14mm LH threads and I see a few different adapters.

What is better, an adapter that indexes on the threads of my muzzle (like the KNS 5/8”x24) or an adapter that actually engages the detent pin in the front sight?

Option A.  In general, you want a suppressor nice and tight against the barrel.  If it locks in with the detent, that introduced play.  Play is a bad thing.

You can make the adapter fit flush against the FSB and still engage the detent, I do it all the time with my muzzle devices.

JMAC also makes a Key Mo mount in 14x1LH: https://www.jmac-customs.com/rrd-2c-14f-keymount/

Awesome, I had no idea there was a direct thread Key Mount for my barrel.

S0 many cans!  Out of those used here - which would actually be the quiestest can for the AK?  I'm considering getting a CGS Helios - it can be used for 5.56 or 7.62 from what they tell me.

Surefire RC1 on slr104ur

@optoisolator

I don't think there is a quietest can for the AK in particular. Whatever works on an AR will also work on an AK, but the AK will be louder to whatever degree the AK is naturally louder than an AR

question folks; say i have identified the threads on my ak are concentric...

And I get a suppressor muzzle device tapped to M14 LH, how sensitive is it to being knocked off center from indexing it against the front sight block?

Just wondering if we are talking about a 75% chance the irregularities of the sight block will screw things up; i can forget about this option.

It's possible; the Wolverine suppressor and Griffin Armament AK suppressor mounts index in the muzzle for this reason.

Note the picture:

KR-9 with Perst 3 and Ghost-M in short configuration


Bulgarian AKSU kit with DBAL A3 and Griffin M4-SDK with KeyMo adapter

Any issues running the DBAL on the Ultimak? I had a similar setup on a SAM7SF a few years back and I didn't want to risk it after the DBAL warmed up a bit.

Slr104ur

No, I haven't had any issues with heat actually, but I also don't shoot hundreds and hundreds of rounds at night in a short period

Ringing some steel at 300 yards.

isnt it rough on the svd already to suppress it?
I have the adjustable gas block which helps bleed off more but adding a can would just make it violent. ANd parts arent cheap.
but man is that pretty

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I ended up with a Modlite flashlight and Modlight button and figured out how to make it work on the AKSU. On the other side at the 9 o'clock picatinny HG rail position I have a Unity Hotbutton for the laser. Top of the Ultimak thumb press for the WL and 9 o'clock thumb press for the laser, it actually works really well

It looks like CNC Warrior no longer has the guide rods. What are you guys using to make sure your threads are concentric and that you won't get baffle strikes when mounting your suppressor? I'll most likely be using a Griffin thread adapter on my AKS74N.

I use the Fastenal rods

5.45 - 13/64
7.62 - 19/64

Has anyone suppressed a Galil? The original not the Ace. I just picked up a ATI Galil that I want to cut to 14.5” and suppress...

I haven't done it personally, but the guys at Dead Air let me shoot theirs.  Basically all you'll need is a kns piston and you'll be set.

Any danger of these Fastenal rods damaging the bore since they’re steel?  I tried to put one down my AKP the other day and it wouldn’t go in very far without force, which freaked me out. Pulled it out and found two small vertical scratches on the rifling

Sure, I think there is always a danger putting a steel rod down the bore and you have to be careful about how much force you use. I'm not the expert on what damaged rifling does to accuracy but it seems like the damage would be minor and probably not noticeable, but I do want to be clear I am not an expert by any stretch

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Have an SLR-104FR I'd like to suppress - any reason NOT to go with the Dead Air Wolverine?

Are there better suppressors for 5.45 AKs?

I plan on using my Silencerco Hybrid. lotsa volume, laaarge pass through in the case of nonconcentricity

IMO almost all suppressors are better than the Wolverine. I use the DA Sandman K on a few rifles and most of them are concentric enough with the Sandman S as well. The K cans are not hearing safe and do seem to take the edge off. The S does seem to be right at hearing safe but you should still use caution

The Wolverine is cool but you'll need earpro all the time. To me it's still more uncomfortable than a K can but my opinion is subjective

I am a big fan of DA cans and have a bunch of K and S including the Wolverine, but IMHO the Wolverine is a bit too much of a compromise suppressor, especially for 5.45 guns. With the 30 cal baffles of the S and K series you have a lot more room for error in concentricity and don't need the 40 cal baffles of the Wolverine

I am really happy with my Wolverine on my 7.62 AKM with subs, but that's about all I use it for these days

Was hoping you'd chime in - thanks.

Definitely looking for something that would get me as much sound suppression as possible out of my 5.45 AK (SLR-104FR).

What sort of adapter do you need to use with a Dead Air Sandman?

Also, other than the weight and length, any reason NOT to go with the longer L version over the S? I guess there isn't THAT much noticeable sound difference between the L and S on a 5.45 AK?

I started as a K can guy for the agility and ease of use and really just wanted the edge taken off rather than being truly hearing safe, but now that I've been in the game for so many years I've gravitated to hearing safe use. That happened because after I had a lot of hours using both full size and K cans I realized there isn't that big of a difference between them. Realistically, by the time you add optic, light, laser and suppressor to either AKs or ARs you're going to be in the 10 pound range anyway, so the advantage of the K can is less than I thought it would be

I still use my K cans for most rifles but my three dedicated SHTF / hunting guns each has a full length suppressor. Under the circumstances I wouldn't see a huge difference between the S and the L, but I will admit that my AAC 762SDN6 is on the long side, and probably so is the Sandman L, but that doesn't stop me from using the 762SDN6 on my 12" Grendel AR

This is all really personal to how you use your rifles so I don't have perfect answers but after I realized that no night fighting rifle is ever going to be really light it started to make more sense to go for hearing safe since the weight savings were going to marginal overall with a K can


If you have a 24x1.5 FSB Griffin makes an adapter for 1/2x28 and 5/8x24 that work great and really seem to help mitigate concentricity problems. As much as I like CNC warrior products and use several of their thread adapters for muzzle brakes, the 24x1.5 they have is not suitable for suppressors. It's just too loose and the wobble is probably going to get you in trouble. Not a not on CNC Warrior at all though. They are a great company that makes great products but their adaptor is for brakes, not suppressors

I'm assuming it's 24x1.5? It's a factory SLR-104FR.

One thing I have already is a Surefire 762-RC2 Suppressor - I think this adapter below would work with my SLR-104, right?
https://shootingsurplus.com/surefire-sf3p762m24x1-3-prong-7-62-flash-hider-m24x1-5-threads-ak-47-7-62x39mm-stainless-steel/

Would prefer a 556 can for better suppression, but I suppose it's probably still pretty good with a 762 as well.

Yes, the factory SLR104 is 24x1.5

The Surefire FH mount should work, I have a buddy who has tested his 762-RC2 on a number of 24x1.5 AKs and he's been good to go

556 vs 30 cal is another area where I ended up siding with 30 cal. It gives a greater margin for error on 5.45 guns and I don't think you can really tell the difference, especially in the heat of the moment doing anything interesting or serious

Pretty sure this is that exact Surefire FH

I've got a YHM resonator K that I'm thinking of setting up for my 74s or maybe even my norinco 56S if I can verify that the threads on that one are concentric.  My full size resonator is the older style that doesn't have the universal 1 3/8x24 end like the K one does unfortunately so finding a mount adapter for the long one will be iffy.

Are you guys doing anything to the guns to reduce the extra back pressure or anything?  I know AKs are already pretty overgassed even unsupressed.  I have already put geissele recoil springs in most of my AKs but are you guys using those buffers or whatever that I remember being a thing years ago?  I'm not going to permanently modify anything but I'm wondering if it's even necessary to worry about.

I've got two KNS pistons and will vouch for them 100%. The other option that I'm aware of is the Definitive Arms adjustable gas block, but that's more labor intensive and requires gunsmith tools and knowledge.

It's a little sketchy drilling through the rivet of your carrier at home, but it eventually comes out and you can install the KNS easily afterwards.

Is it necessary?  I don't want to do any more modifications than I need to (especially given the price of the pistons), but I also definitely don't want my guns beating themselves to death.

ETA:  Looking at the KNS online and seeing and that it is pretty easy to adjust on the fly, I do have a spare 5.45 bolt carrier floating around.  Maybe I can just buy one piston and install it on that one carrier, then just swap it into different rifles when I want to suppress one.  Looks like their bulgarian pistons are out of stock, hopefully they make some more eventually.

Only you can determine if it’s necessary. I like to record slow motion video of my AKs cycling so I can see how far the carrier will travel with different rounds, gas settings, and suppressed/unsuppressed. Before I had my Wolverine, my underfolder used to recoil harder than I liked and replacing the piston allowed me to tune it to exactly where I wanted it. Now with the suppressor, it’s even more necessary in my opinion.

To me, the KNS is worth every penny just because I like to tinker and optimize everything I can. One could argue that it’s another variable or potential failure point, but the newest gen pistons are much more solid than the first gen where the adjustment collar piece was the only weak part. After maybe two years of use, one of the locking pieces broke on my first gen collar and KNS sent me the new collar free of charge in about three days.

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Awesome rifle!  Who makes it and what gas tube cover is that?

Thank you! It's an Arsenal SLR-106CR that I had cut, threaded, and pinned with the longest JMAC Customs muzzle device they have (the RRD-4C 28S KeyMo), The gas tube is the Ultimak M1-B, which is my favorite way to mount optics and a light.

Hey guys, I have a couple YHM cans and I noticed YHM sells a 14x1LH muzzle device. I have a 16" PSA GB2, would i just tighten the YHM device right up against the front sight?

Interested in answer.  There is a used PSA GF3 that has a kns piston already installed I’m thinking about snagging.  Are the threads concentric on these?  I have a resonator k and a Rex mg7 .358 that would be used with yhm muzzle device.

Edit:rifle sold quick missed out.

I ordered the KNS piston from optics planet.  I'm also interested in that YHM adapter.  I'd buy one and let you know but it will be a while before I have access to my Norinco to see how it works.

https://i.imgur.com/uwK7iR5.jpg

What sort of adaptor would I need to make my silencerco 7.62 saker fit on my SAM7k-44?

The SAM7 has a 24mm FSB, so your best bet is to go with the Griffin 24x1.5 to 5/8x24 adaptor

I don't have experience with the YHM muzzle device, but yes, more or less it should tighten down against the FSB. It's possible that it may not screw down all the way to the FSB and that would be ok too, as long as it gets extremely tight. Read the manual if they include one. Most suppressor muzzle devices have shims to help with indexing and often have instructions on how it works, so read that

You'll want to loc-tite the muzzle device in place to be sure it doesn't walk during shooting and of course do a good rod check or 5 to be sure it's concentric



I haven't been paying enough attention to the GF3 to know if they have concentricity problems

My yhm 14x1lh mount bottoms out on the muzzle on a draco. Red loctite and I cut a notch just in case it moves, which it hasn't.

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if anyone needs a griffin adapter I've got one in 1/2x28 and 5/8x24.

Decided to get a 5.45 ACE to suppress.

Cool thanks for sharing!

Definitely need a range report on that one

Showed up today