Post em if you have em. Your own suppressors and .mil welcome



In late 2023 the green rattle can came out, and I won't lie - I love it
Tig-IR + 1P78 Kashtan on the 105 and a Skeet-IR X on the Arsenal in front of the Browe
Larue Tranquillo on the Tiger, Vox K on the 105 and Sandman K on the Arsenal



This was from a while ago but I think I have more AKs suppresssed now than I did then. Don't let anyone tell you that you can't suppress AKs. You definitely can, but it's trickier, and not all of them can be suppressed. Most of them can however. Just be careful, do your research and triple test and triple check everything


2022:
Scored an AK12 and am only beginning the testing but its off to a good start. In 2023 I actually have an approved Form 1 for an AK12K SBR, so we'll see how that goes
















2023: The KR9 is been a solid varmint gun. I switch between the Eotech and the Novus Vzor-1 red dot clone (MDS-3), and the actual Vzor-1 you see in the lower right


MDS-3 red dot, Wilcox clip on thermal mount in front, Omega 9K and a Klesch 2 IR on the KR9
Rugged Micro and some white light version of Klesch on the ZenitCo AKSU


Vzor-1 and the Skeet or Voodoo S actually work believe it or not. It would be better to have a magnifier, but due to the low recoil of the KR9 I won't get scope eye being pushed in a little close. Since this is a varmint gun and not a CQB rifle to protect against Antifa, I can accept slightly trickier ergonomics or sight picture than I would with my personal defense rifles


Updated 2021:
AK105 with Perst 3, ZenitCo B33 top cover, B10u lower HG and Ultimak gas tube rail, with modified ModButton pressure switch for Perst 3. Also lucked into an AK74M3 modernized buttstock and PG

KUSA KR-9 with OKP-7 optic, Perst 3 and Ghost-M in short configuration


AK105 with Sandman K + E-Brake, ZenitCo Perst 2 laser, Skeet-IR and Kashtan 2.8x


With TigIR clip on thermal and Vox S suppressor


Sandman K with PEQ15 and Browe BTO optic


Repainted the Browe and an AK12 mag with a new style of 'Syrian' camo I'm experimenting with






With Vzor-1 red dot

Sandman K with DBAL A4



My back window doubles as my hunting blind


Griffin M4SDK modified to Dead Air KeyMo mount by ECCO Machining



2024 RPK74M ZenitCo goodness
It's true, Kashtan is in fact my favorite Russian optic closely followed by the 1P87 and Obzor, but unfortunately Obzor isn't compatible with clip on thermal optics
Kashtan is very similar to an ACOG in function and use, but definitely not a clone





Sandman K, 762SDN-6, SOCOM762, Wolverine


SOCCOM 762




AK103 with Obzor and Rugged Micro 30


Sandman K



Griffin M4SD-K (bottom) and Mini 4 (top)


Dead Air PBS-1 Wolverine with 1P63 Obzor




Browe BTO-RS with Wolverine





SGL31 with ZenitCo B10M+B33 topcover, DBAL A3 and Kashtan 1P with AAC Mini 4 5.56


Old style AKM

Modern AK103





Auzie's RPK74



1PN51







With TA31GH and TNVC PVS14. This was an old config I fooled around with in the early days. It works but you have to leave the PVS14 attached or the zero will obviously shift without it




AAC 51T Brakeout 2 with Griffin 24x1.5 adapter


With NPZ PN22K Gen 3 Day/Night


Mini 4

PBS-1


SOCOM 7.62 RC and 1P63 Obzor



1PN93


AKSU with ZenitCo B11 Handguard. This is a tight little package and very handy. Holosun does not interfere with 1PN93






















View of the Kashtan reticule through the Tig. Say what you want about Russian optics not being designed to work with night vision or thermal, but for me a number of the more modern ones like Kashtan and 1P87 have been remarkably effective, and oddly have the same height as western optics


5.45x39 gets it done BTW
I've sent hundreds of hogs to swine valhalla over the years with simple 7N6 and even Hornady Black. Like any caliber good shot placement is important for DRT hits like in this photo, but two or three random hits on a hog running after the sounder busts will usually put them down. I've never seen hogs call for evac or pop an IFAIK, so you can be reasonably sure if they do happen to run off they won't be coming back

Here is the best pic I could get of the size of the gas port opening.  The red highlighted area is the opening.  It looks like it is .050" or less, just a tiny sliver.  It cycles without the can very lethargically; you can discern the bolt locking the hammer back and sliding slowly to the rear before lightly bumping the trunnion and rebounding forward.  It is almost comical to feel.  With the can on it it is much more abrupt, but still considerably slower than a regular unmodded AK.  It does blow gas out of EVERY opening (your trigger finger will get a rectangle of black on it from the trigger opening after a mag or two) but it is not unpleasant to shoot at all.  I made a small gasket to go in front of the takedown button and divert the gasses away from your eyes; works out pretty well.

What size bit?

Use a #3 drill bit if you can find one, or 7/32" will work too but you wont get quite as much thread engagement.  I used a 7/32" and it worked fine.  I peened the the threads on the grub screw to make it a snug fit, and coated it liberally with high temp nickle anti-seize.

Thanks

Great work hitch

M85NP with griffin taper mount mini brake for my F1 can...do I have to take a pic with the can on?

Did you swap the barrel out? every M85 I've seen including mine has the muzzle recessed into the fsb/gb.

Yes, custom turned/cut/threaded barrel and the old one was pressed out.

Bump for updated Tiger photos

Hybrid love!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQ7xMIN_p_E

Have a couple of suppressed AK's in this vid, sorry don't know how to get the thumbnail of the vid up. ;)

Mayor Fuglycool

Man, I really need to get one of those Dead Air Wolverines.

They look authentic, and function pretty well for the price. . . I wish it was a full TI build, as it would have some weight off. I understand that heat tempered steel is required for PKM Full Auto use, but a TI can would be perfect for run and guns.

Trying to get a hang of the site, still learning how to post pics :P

Copy the image location and then use the image icon next to the link

Ok. . . Lets see if this works !


Tried posting the image location with the image button, still not wanting to work. Maybe it is because I have not posted enough on arfcom ?

So unrelated to your posting issues, but I want to know if you like your 'Wolverine' or 'The ONE' better for suppressing your AKs.  I can get them for the same price right now and I'm already leaning toward the Wolverine.  Just wanted input from someone that had both.

Wolverine
Pros : Looks cool, heavy duty, lots of adapters for diff AK platform threads. Endcap big enough to support 5.45 to 7.62x54R projos, even with misalignment in threading.
Cons : Weight , not necessarily a QD can. Feels like a steel pipe on the end of your rifle . . . longer the barrel, heavier it feels.

Gemtech One
Pros : TI build with stellite blast baffle (strong), lighter than Wolverine, QD in either flash hider or muzzle break.
Cons: Thread adapters needed for 14x1LH to 5/8x28 QD mount and needed for 24 RH as well. Might baffle strike on 14x1LH due to misalignment of most eastern block factory barrel threading.

I have tested quite a bit of AK cans, so let me know what you are thinking of getting. Also, look at Silencer Shop, they have great deals right now, and tell them that the Mayor sent ya. ;)

If you get a chance, check this out. It's a fun vid. Something else to keep in mind, depending on the ak platform that you use the most.
Q Half Nelson By Mayor Fuglycool

I made a homemade suppressor from a SD Tactical kit. My baffles were good and concentric and I got good noise suppression on a SLR-107FR (I used a 24mm to 14mm thread adapter) and a SGL Russian AK in 5.45x39. I also used it on a Molot FM-VEPR with a 16" barrel that had 14mm threads on the barrel. And it worked fine and gave good noise suppression levels on all of them. It was quietest on the 5.45x39.

Then I swapped out the homemade baffles for a steel monocore. I tested out the new suppressor design when I mounted it on a 7.62x39 caliber WASR-10/63 that had the original Romanian barrel and 14mm threads. It threw all the rounds way off to the right. I could not hit anything with it. Finally I moved in to 25 yards and my spotter saw where the rounds were going. They were hitting three feet to the right at 25 yards away. I had never suppressed the WASR before. I could not figure out why it was hitting so far to the right. I took the suppressor apart and could see no baffle strikes and no endcap strikes. It did not look like it even grazed the baffles or endcap. I looked down the barrel with a flashlight and the suppressor looked like it was on straight. I have been deployed since then and have not been able to re-test the setup due to being away from home. I cannot figure out why it worked so well on the Bulgarian and Russian rifles and did not work at all on the WASR. I did have it re-cored with a monocore before I put it on the WASR, but it should have even less POI shift with the monocore than with the baffles (I had a 4" POI shift upward with the baffle design) and the POI shift should be up or down, not to the right, and certainly not three feet to the right at only 25 yards. The only thing I can think of is, it is either grazing a baffle or the endcap in a way that I cannot detect, just barely grazing it so it doesn't leave a mark, or my barrel was way too dirty (I shot 300 rounds unsuppressed before trying out the suppressor), or my WASR just doesn't like to be suppressed.

I welcome any feedback and thank you in advance if you have any input. I'd like to figure out how to suppress the WASR successfully but I don't know if it's possible without rethreading the barrel. I'd post pics but I don't have any on my laptop, and I'm 3000 miles away from my gun safe right now.

Have you noticed any jacket pieces inside the can when you pull the monocore out? Check concentricity with a rod while the can is on.

You need to get a guide rod from cnc warrior, eye balling it isn't good enough imo . I've had an AR barrel from a pretty reputable manufacturer that was slightly off, I couldn't see it by looking down the barrel but the guide rod showed it was just barely touching the endcap. My m85pap sbr is way off on being concentric, I can't even get the guide rod fully seated( even with my 30cal can on it).

Thank you for the info. I haven't noticed any copper or pieces of jacketing coming off or getting stuck in the suppressor internals. I will have to get some guide rod or some drill rod from McMaster-Carr and see how straight it really is. I haven't done that yet. I think the newer, higher-quality Bulgarian and Russian barrels I've had were threaded concentric, but the old 1983 WASR I have does not have concentric threads.

CNC warrior rods are really good :)

Roger that.

Thoughts on suppressing a 16” WASR-10 with a SilencerCo Hybrid?

Should be fine because it's FA and magnum rated but you need to figure out how to mount it to 14x1L threading. CnC Warrior probably has a 14x1L to 1/2x28 or similar adapter but triple triple triple check your concentricity before shooting. CnC makes a good product but it's not been the best for suppressors because it doesn't index well. They have loose tolerances because they are intended for short flashhider or brakes, not long suppressors with tight tolerances. That said you have a bit of leeway due to the Hybrid being multi caliber up to .458 but don't take any chances. Be sure as you can be that it passes the rod test with multiple rods

I plan on going the Key-Mo route, so wouldn’t this work?

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/muzzle-devices/flash-hiders/keymount-flash-hider-m14x1lh-sku100400016-87180-181200.aspx

Since most of my rifles are 24x1.5 I hadn't noticed that key-mo made a 14x1 but yep, that should be spot on and makes it really simple. Check concentrity, loc-tite it down and check concentricity again. Should be GTG especially with the clearances on the Hybrid

TX-Zen, if my baffles in my monocore are not spherical/conical/vortex shaped, (they are triangular as in the photo below), is that going to affect my POI? My endcap is a 14mm LH threaded cap, so I am not needing an adapter to use it on my WASR. I am wondering though, what do you think of my suppressor design? Of course, with the factory made monocore from SD Tactical, I suppose I can't really call it "my" design anymore, since I swapped out my homemade baffles for the monocore. Is this a bad suppressor to try to use on an AK? I think it weighs 18 oz. I appreciate you sharing your expertise!

My suppressor looks exactly like this:

I appreciate the question but I'm not nearly technical enough to answer properly. I'm a recreational shooter and not qualified to comment about design in that kind of detail

I do think you can ask this question in the Armory>Suppressor forum and get some good answers though. Many industry partners are there and often give good advice and observations

@Atlmike
@AAC
@mageever
@Joshua_CapitolArmory
@HansohnBrothers

Z

Thank you for your advice. I think what's happening is the bullets are just barely grazing the baffles and messing up the point of impact quite a bit. Before I had the monocore installed, I remember I had my baffles and endcap drilled out larger, overbore, by quite a bit. I believe they were 0.44". Now with the monocore, they are probably 0.35".

This kind of baffle will be great for minimal POI, but will negatively affect suppression.  I'm not saying it won't be good, but a slanted wall will do better for that than the chevron style you have there.  The trade-off with the slant wall is it increases backpressure markedly.  If you'r putting thin on an AK, that chevron style will probably be awesome.  Also, just the mass of the suppressor will cause some POI shift.  Symmetrical baffles (like you have) can be good for precision (keeping shot group tight).

Did I understand you right that your bore is at .350"?  That's super tight (for my taste) for anything beyond a blast baffle on any 7.62 rifle.  You'll also get increased backpressure with an overly tight bore.  If you start with .350 on the minimum side, you'll want perfect bore alignment.  Normally, I'd start there and taper the bore out if possible to .380+ depending on bore alignment.

Todd Magee
Dead Air Engineering

Mr. Magee,

Thank you for your advice. I may have given you the wrong number on the 0.35" measurement. I'm going to check it again with my drill bit index and see. It's been a while since I shot that suppressor. I think I got the number mixed up on that. I'm 2000 miles away from home right now so I can't go measure it right now. I remember it being tighter than my freeze plug design's baffles. Those freeze plugs I was using in the past were drilled out really wide. They were almost wide enough to shoot a .45 through it.

I understand your technical analysis of the baffle design. I think less back-pressure is good for an AK because AKs tend to leak gas and that creates more noise. I think this suppressor would be pretty good for my WASR if I can overcome what I think is a slight baffle strike problem. I'll try checking the concentricity of the threads. If it's a no-go, then I may sell that WASR and buy a Bulgarian SLR AK instead. I was thinking about getting a Bulgarian anyway.

I do like that suppressor because it's very sturdy. Titanium hull and endcap, and steel monocore. It's tough.

I have an Arsenal SLR107FR and a 2017 WASR, which one would you guys set up for suppression?

I'll be usingDead Air Sandman S.

It'll be easier to use the 14x1 QD for the WASR but the 107 is cooler by far (IMO)

You may want to check to see if the ammo you are using is stable in the WASR. Not all ammo is created equal. Shoot some on paper unsuppressed to see if they are making round holes. I suggest that you do this with any ammo you plan to shoot suppressed and in any rifle you plan to use a suppressor on. Your WASR may not like the flavor of the ammo you are using.

Good Luck

Arsenal SAM7k milled bulgarian pistol
Folding prace setup.  waiting for the SBR tax stamp to come in
RS Regulate with a ret dot
Magpul grip
Midwest m-lok rail
tiny-ass flashlight
griffin 24mm to 5/8-24 thread adapter  I triple and quadruple checked and the threads were concentric, even with a 10" can, no baffle strikes

Hog rig
Sandman-K with ZenitCo rails, 1P87 red dot and DBAL A3


The DBAL IR laser is zeroed but I have a weapon mount on the PVS14 incase I want to run it behind the 1P87










And AAC762SDN-6 on the fullsize SGL31-94


Technical details:

The AK105 normally has a 12" barrel flush with the 24x1.5 front site block but in this case I did the Form 1 for a 13.5" barrel and had the exposed barrel threaded for 1/2x28
The Sandman K is QD attached to the loc-tited Dead Air mount on the exposed threaded barrel. The Dead Air Key-Mo indexes against the 24x1.5 FSB muzzle face
Rifle has the ZenitCo B10u lower HG, B33 top cover and B19 gas tube rail to mount the DBAL-A3. This has an enhanced safety lever from Legion USA and an old Isreali quiet sling that's been laying around in my garage for about 10 years. To be stealthy for hunting I used electrical tape on anything that moves including the selector and sling loop on the buttstock, and I have to say with a 20 round mag it's extremely quiet, there is very little rattle. Trigger is an ALG AKT-EL. SureFire X300 is mounted to the RS Regulate BM-1 mount

The fullsize SGL31-94 has the original B10 lower HG, the B33 topcover and uses a Griffin 24x1.5 to 1/2x28 adapter which is locked down and witness marked, then I added the AAC Brakeout 2.0 which lets me use the Mini 4 or the 762SDN-6 depending on what I want to do
It also has a Krebs enhanced safety lever and modern issue green double buckle sling. Trigger is an ALG AKT-UL and the SureFire X300 is also mounted to the BM-1

You have lovely toys

Too much time on my hands to research stuff, and no wife to veto me. Sometimes life ain't bad

We did have a good time today at Impact comparing new suppressors

Of the four the AAC 762SDN-6 was the quietest on the 16" 5.45 AK but the SOCOM 762 sounds hearing safe on the PSL
Griffin M4SD-K sounds hearing safe on the 16" AR and is by far the quietest K can I have heard, definitely quieter than the Mini 4 or the Sandman K

I would say that based on previous experience with the Mini 4 and the Sandman K that the Mini 4 is a tad quieter than the Sandman but not by much, and nothing we shot today caused ringing, discomfort or pain (except the Wolverine on the Tiger, definitely still need earpro). All the K cans could all be used without earpro (outdoors) in a pinch







And the other day this guy was blasting away at ASC

All I can say is that 105 it TITS! Never before felt or shot a better shooting 74. You built a good one there Zen.

AAC Krink can that mounts directly to the muzzle. just had to make a notch for the detent pin to lock it on.

technically a 30 cal bore can but work of the 545 as well, just not as quiet.

AK74U KRINK aac by scott h, on Flickr

This thread still a thing? Hope so, here’s my contribution.

SLR107UR & SLR106CR w/ Dead Air Wolverine. Just put a Sandman K in jail for my 106F w/ front end conversion.

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You are strong in the way of the ZenitCo

Running a Surefire SOCOM SB and SOCOM mini monster on a SLR-106/ SLR 104 SBR using their 24mm mount. Not perfectly concentric but close enough. It’s loads of fun to shoot. Just glad it takes the edge off. 8.3bbl and 5.56 is brutal at indoor ranges.

Best thing you can do for a suppressed AK is install an adjustable gas piston.

Keeps the PSL's from beating themselves apart too.

From a few weeks ago

Any chance we get you to post some pictures of the reticle of the Russian EOTech? Pardon my ignorance as I've forgotten the name of it!

http://russianoptics.net/1P87.html

1P87



NV compatible too

Wolverine cleared yesterday after 10 months and 9 days. The gubbermint sure is efficient.

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