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Posted: 4/18/2010 2:25:44 PM EDT
[#1]
CLP
I've been considering getting some grease to put on the rails, just never got around to it. |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 2:36:49 PM EDT
[#2]
Break Free CLP for my WASR-10 and SGL-31
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Posted: 4/18/2010 2:39:20 PM EDT
[#3]
KY warming liquid.
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Posted: 4/18/2010 2:58:10 PM EDT
[#4]
Lubriplate
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Posted: 4/18/2010 3:17:19 PM EDT
[#5]
High-temperature bearing silicone grease from walmart. If it's good enough for cars, it's good enough for my AK.
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Posted: 4/18/2010 3:19:42 PM EDT
[#6]
Grease inside wipe the outside with a oily rag...
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Posted: 4/18/2010 3:21:29 PM EDT
[#7]
.
I got this big tube of moly-lithium grease that seems to work OK. |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 3:34:46 PM EDT
[#8]
Shooters Choice All Weather "high performance" super grease on rails and moving parts.
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Posted: 4/18/2010 3:38:13 PM EDT
[#9]
I use Breakfree "LP", not the CLP.
I've heard that the "C" in CLP would cause carbon to gunk up. Might just be old wives tales, but I went with just the BreakFee "LP" |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 3:41:56 PM EDT
[#10]
I've started using Mystic JT-6 spray grease on 'bout everything.
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Posted: 4/18/2010 3:49:53 PM EDT
[#11]
i just use old motor oil in my sks, actually the last time i cleaned it was about 5k rounds ago.
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Posted: 4/18/2010 4:28:47 PM EDT
[#12]
Break-Freeski and Tetraskaya Greasekova on the rails.
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Posted: 4/18/2010 4:32:32 PM EDT
[#13]
The AKs get Mobile 1 10W30
The ARs get CLP |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 4:39:32 PM EDT
[#14]
+1 on the Lubriplate for anywhere metal rubs on metal.
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Posted: 4/18/2010 4:50:43 PM EDT
[#15]
Hoppes 9 oil on the rails and contact points. I use CLP for general cleaning and don't rely on it as a lube for moving parts.
I use that Hoppes stuff for my AR's, handguns, shotguns, everything really. Hasn't failed me yet. I know a lot of guys that run Gun Butter maybe I'll give that a shot in the near future. |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 4:55:00 PM EDT
[#16]
I've had a big old spray container of Breakfree CLP from years ago but I usually use leftover synthetic motor oil and some Mobil 1 synthetic grease I put in some jars
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Posted: 4/18/2010 5:11:36 PM EDT
[#17]
What do they use in eastern bloc militaries? Oil or grease?
I use CLP for my AR and Glock, just picked up an AK and will use CLP for the first range trip. I used old mil-surp grease on my M1A. |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 5:27:07 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
What do they use in eastern bloc militaries? Oil or grease? I use CLP for my AR and Glock, just picked up an AK and will use CLP for the first range trip. I used old mil-surp grease on my M1A. I don't know about the grease, they may use it as well, but most combloc countries had oil bottles to issue with their AK's. |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 5:32:35 PM EDT
[#19]
I use a very very thin layer of water-proof grease to lube my rifles.
For handguns, I tend to use standard gun oil, as the nooks and cranies are smaller and hard to get to. |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 5:35:35 PM EDT
[#20]
Grease and Remoil.
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Posted: 4/18/2010 6:20:53 PM EDT
[#21]
Any type of oil to protect the metal .Rails get either Plastilube (has been used on Garands for decades) or any synthetic bearing grease. This type of grease holds up to high temp and has a low affinity for moisture.
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Posted: 4/18/2010 6:23:54 PM EDT
[#22]
Combo of grease and CLP. Works like a charm.
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Posted: 4/18/2010 6:24:51 PM EDT
[#23]
Slip 2000 weapon lube.
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Posted: 4/18/2010 6:44:34 PM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:
Quoted:
What do they use in eastern bloc militaries? Oil or grease? I use CLP for my AR and Glock, just picked up an AK and will use CLP for the first range trip. I used old mil-surp grease on my M1A. I don't know about the grease, they may use it as well, but most combloc countries had oil bottles to issue with their AK's. I bought 100 of the little steel AK oil bottles a few years ago when they were dirt cheap. The bottles that still had anything had what looked like old-school brown axle grease in them. I've still got about half jar of it if you want a sample. |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 7:01:35 PM EDT
[#25]
If I need oil, ... RemOil (cheapest price I found was at WalMart)
If I need grease, ... Synthetic High Temperature Bearing Grease (from the auto parts store) If I need something that won't pick up dirt/dust/etc. (like for magazine insides), ... Liquid Wrench Dry-Lube (it is not graphite so it's not messy, you can find it at WalMart) |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 7:02:01 PM EDT
[#26]
clp I have some remoil too but havent tried it.
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Posted: 4/18/2010 7:32:56 PM EDT
[#27]
Suplus GI LSA Weapons Oil.
Got some in cans a while ago at a fun show. |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 7:34:48 PM EDT
[#28]
Kellube. Won't burn out with use, won't run out of the gun if left in one position for long periods, won't evaporate, and won't get thick and cause sluggish actions when frozen.
During my own bench tests it's proven slicker than any oil, gun oil or grease I've ever tried. Another plus, it's odorless unlike many snake oils out there today that one can smell coming a mile away. |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 7:46:00 PM EDT
[#29]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
What do they use in eastern bloc militaries? Oil or grease? I use CLP for my AR and Glock, just picked up an AK and will use CLP for the first range trip. I used old mil-surp grease on my M1A. I don't know about the grease, they may use it as well, but most combloc countries had oil bottles to issue with their AK's. I bought 100 of the little steel AK oil bottles a few years ago when they were dirt cheap. The bottles that still had anything had what looked like old-school brown axle grease in them. I've still got about half jar of it if you want a sample. Interesting. I always thought those were for oil. I don't remember what the rationale was for using grease on the M1A and Garands, but it was standard. I like grease, it doesn't disappear through evaporation/absorption like oil does. Here's what I used on my M1A. |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 7:56:24 PM EDT
[#30]
Quoted:
i just use old motor oil in my sks, actually the last time i cleaned it was about 5k rounds ago. thats because motor oil is designed for combustion abuse,extreme temps, and has detergents for corrosion............a good reason to use it for small arms |
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Posted: 4/18/2010 8:00:00 PM EDT
[#31]
ky jelly
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Posted: 4/18/2010 8:16:21 PM EDT
[#32]
Quoted:
ky jelly Someone already beat ya to that joke 
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Posted: 4/18/2010 9:37:13 PM EDT
[#33]
Breakfree CLP.
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Posted: 4/18/2010 11:23:52 PM EDT
[#34]
Quoted:
Quoted:
ky jelly Someone already beat ya to that joke I personally prefer EZ Glide!! 
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Posted: 4/19/2010 12:44:38 AM EDT
[#35]
I use red lithium wheel bearing grease on all my guns.
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Posted: 4/19/2010 5:37:43 AM EDT
[#36]
Motor Oil for my AK, my AR-15, and my Glock. Works great
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Posted: 4/19/2010 9:20:27 AM EDT
[#37]
lucas wheel bearing red grease and clp.
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Posted: 4/19/2010 9:40:02 AM EDT
[#38]
Aeroshell Fluid 18.
It's a very thin, creepy gun oil that's good to -57 Centigrade. It's also loaded with EP and anti-corrosive additives. Its specs are very close to the commie issue gun oil. The fact that it's $26 a gallon had absolutely nothing to do with my choice. BSW Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 4/19/2010 9:50:42 AM EDT
[#39]
I've always used synthetic motor oil on every weapon I've ever owned and never had any problems. It doesn't dry out, is designed for high temps and high friction applications and IMO seems easier to clean the weapon.
All the properties you want in a firearm oil for a lot cheaper than the designated "firearm oils". |
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Posted: 4/19/2010 10:06:23 AM EDT
[#40]
What does everyone think of M-Pro 7? I use it now I don't seem to have a problem with it. What is everyone else's opinion on it?
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Posted: 4/19/2010 10:08:39 AM EDT
[#41]
Breakfree CLP and KY Jelly...
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Posted: 4/19/2010 10:32:10 AM EDT
[#42]
Quoted:
I've always used synthetic motor oil on every weapon I've ever owned and never had any problems. It doesn't dry out, is designed for high temps and high friction applications and IMO seems easier to clean the weapon. All the properties you want in a firearm oil for a lot cheaper than the designated "firearm oils". When was the last time you took the valve cover off your engine and got rain, dust, and mud in it? When was the last time you fired your engine's cylinders once? What firearms do you own that have a lubricant pump and plain metal bearings? Liquid cooling with thermostats and radiator? Firearms have a harder life than engines. They aren't run at a constant temperature within a narrow firing rate. Think of it this way: Engines last a lot longer than guns do when you consider the gun is only working while it's being fired. Say a gun lasts for 100k rounds before it's shot out. If the time the gun is actually active is 50ms (1200rpm cyclic) , then the total life of the gun is 166.6 minutes, or less than 3 hours. What motors are you replacing the cylinders on because they are worn out after 3 hours? Guns live a short, dirty life. Give 'em a chance with a decent lube. BSW |
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Posted: 4/19/2010 10:47:48 AM EDT
[#43]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
ky jelly Someone already beat ya to that joke I personally prefer EZ Glide!! +1 |
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Posted: 4/19/2010 2:14:55 PM EDT
[#44]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I've always used synthetic motor oil on every weapon I've ever owned and never had any problems. It doesn't dry out, is designed for high temps and high friction applications and IMO seems easier to clean the weapon. All the properties you want in a firearm oil for a lot cheaper than the designated "firearm oils". When was the last time you took the valve cover off your engine and got rain, dust, and mud in it? When was the last time you fired your engine's cylinders once? What firearms do you own that have a lubricant pump and plain metal bearings? Liquid cooling with thermostats and radiator? Firearms have a harder life than engines. They aren't run at a constant temperature within a narrow firing rate. Think of it this way: Engines last a lot longer than guns do when you consider the gun is only working while it's being fired. Say a gun lasts for 100k rounds before it's shot out. If the time the gun is actually active is 50ms (1200rpm cyclic) , then the total life of the gun is 166.6 minutes, or less than 3 hours. What motors are you replacing the cylinders on because they are worn out after 3 hours? Guns live a short, dirty life. Give 'em a chance with a decent lube. BSW Last time I checked it was a free country, so I'll use whatever I want. I've been shooting guns for over 25 years and I've used motor oil on everything from muzzleloaders to pistols to AR's and AK's and never had any problems and the oil worked just as well, if not better than designated "firearm oils". I was sharing my personal experience on the subject, and people can do what they want with that information. For some reason you seem to feel as though you need to tell others what they should be doing with their own property. Go bark at somebody else. |
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Posted: 4/19/2010 2:58:49 PM EDT
[#45]
double tap
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Posted: 4/19/2010 3:05:46 PM EDT
[#46]
Ive been using the same thing. I use the stuff at work for breaking in camshafts and it really sticks to metal well. Ive also tried the other thinner oils, but it seems they get thrown out of the action after a couple mags. The assembly lube stays even after a whole day of shooting.
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Posted: 4/19/2010 3:19:37 PM EDT
[#47]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I've always used synthetic motor oil on every weapon I've ever owned and never had any problems. It doesn't dry out, is designed for high temps and high friction applications and IMO seems easier to clean the weapon. All the properties you want in a firearm oil for a lot cheaper than the designated "firearm oils". When was the last time you took the valve cover off your engine and got rain, dust, and mud in it? When was the last time you fired your engine's cylinders once? What firearms do you own that have a lubricant pump and plain metal bearings? Liquid cooling with thermostats and radiator? Firearms have a harder life than engines. They aren't run at a constant temperature within a narrow firing rate. Think of it this way: Engines last a lot longer than guns do when you consider the gun is only working while it's being fired. Say a gun lasts for 100k rounds before it's shot out. If the time the gun is actually active is 50ms (1200rpm cyclic) , then the total life of the gun is 166.6 minutes, or less than 3 hours. What motors are you replacing the cylinders on because they are worn out after 3 hours? Guns live a short, dirty life. Give 'em a chance with a decent lube. BSW gas motors go through a shitload of abuse. motors dont run at a constant temp.....not even close. cylinder head temps go through major temp changes. not to mention the abuse that the rings and cylinder walls put on the oil too. the oil is designed for extreme abuse given some motors rev up to 6-7,000 rpm, some even more. not to mention having to spin at -20 below, before the journals are primed and the motors not even warmed up. motors(cast iron blocks) can sit for months and yet they still wont rust internally,because of the excellent job motor oil does. I've torn down old motors with 160,000 miles on them and the bores are still like new, that did not happen because motor oil "is not a decent lube" most gun oils are nothing but basic sewing machine oil(3-1 oil),which does not hold a candle to motor oil,(regular or synthetic) people have used basic gun oils for decades with no problems too. motor oil is all one needs, l been using it for close to 30 years, with fabulous results,especially in AR's |
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Posted: 4/19/2010 3:33:47 PM EDT
[#48]
Quoted:
Ive been using the same thing. I use the stuff at work for breaking in camshafts and it really sticks to metal well. Ive also tried the other thinner oils, but it seems they get thrown out of the action after a couple mags. The assembly lube stays even after a whole day of shooting. Never thought of assembly lube for a gun, but the properties you mentioned does make sense. It protects against dry start-up of a freshly assembled engine so it might work well in this application too. I've got some in the garage, just never thought about it for a gun. I've never been one to buy into the "snake-oil" marketing of so many of the specialty lubes. Yeah, there is science behind it all and some lubes may be better for some applications than others but I think some of it really is hype. I've read up on and researched this subject and that of engine lubes for years and I've never seen any conclusive proof that shows a real world difference that the average owner would notice. Has anyone ever actually worn out a properly lubed firearm because of their choice of product? I'm not so sure if I would ever really see a difference between the latest, greatest, high tech, super lube and any of the other quality lubricants mentioned in this or a myriad of other internet posts on the subject. I've tended to use a variety of different things over the years on different firearms. I might be more selective with some weapons but for an AK I probably wouldn't worry too much as long as I had it lubed with something decent. And yeah, out in the field, in a pinch I've actually used used motor oil off the end of my dipstick. Probably worked as well as half the gun specific stuff I had back at the house on the bench. With that said, at the moment I use CLP on most of my guns as a general lube and oily rag wipedown but on rimfire rifle actions I tend to favor dry lubes because they tend to run cleaner with less action fouling and easier clean up, for me, YMMV. |
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Posted: 4/19/2010 4:43:31 PM EDT
[#49]
Agreed. Theres a lot of products that claim to be the best lube. But none are the best for every application. Because the AK bolt carrier rides on rails, I would think grease would provide the most protection. you really cant go wrong as long as you have some type of lube for the action.
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Posted: 4/19/2010 7:30:37 PM EDT
[#50]
I only use Mobile 1 10-30 on the internals (except Garands) and CLP on the outside. Its all I use on my compitition pistols, 3 Gun rifles and shotgun, AK's whatever...and I shoot an average of 1500 rounds a month in practice and matches.
Some of the top competition shooters in the country use it, and its worked for me for years. |
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