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Posted: 3/10/2010 3:44:44 PM EDT
[#1]
there are aftermarket triggers out there
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Posted: 3/10/2010 3:53:39 PM EDT
[#2]
Mine is a Tapco and I want to use it. No money right now for a Red Star.
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Posted: 3/10/2010 4:58:51 PM EDT
[#3]
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Posted: 3/10/2010 5:40:02 PM EDT
[#4]
I have a question!
Can you get the materials for that charging handle polish job you did at Home Depot or something, or am I going to have to order it online? |
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Posted: 3/10/2010 5:45:46 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
I have a question! Can you get the materials for that charging handle polish job you did at Home Depot or something, or am I going to have to order it online? Yup, I got it at the Cheapo Depot. They should have the Dremel bits and the polishing compound. I actually went back and used some 400 grit sandpaper and lightly sanded going with the grain then polished it some more and it's got a mirror finish now, although you can still see some of the tooling marks. Remember you don't want to remove the metal just polish the surface. ETA: the blueing kit I got from Fox Ridge outfiters which is the retail store for Thompson Center Arms, just down the street from me. I'll be updating that thread soon with a Romainian stock I'm refinishing for my brother while I'm waiting for my Ironwood stock to get here. |
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Posted: 3/10/2010 5:53:47 PM EDT
[#6]
How bout the stripping compound? If you're just going to sand it anyway, do you still need it?
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Posted: 3/10/2010 6:02:11 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
How bout the stripping compound? If you're just going to sand it anyway, do you still need it? It will take the chemicals used for the blueing off, saving you A LOT of time I would imagine. I'm sure you could polish it(the blueing) off but I think you end up with hours of polishing. If you use sandpaper be VERY light about it. Use 400 grit or finer. I wouldn't use sandpaper to remove the blueing, only to try and buff some of the tooling marks. I cannot stress enough this point. You do not want to remove metal, only polish it. The kit I showed was $14 for the whole thing, definitely worth every penny and then some. Not to mention if you didn't like the polised look you have the stuff right there to put the blueing right back on. |
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Posted: 3/10/2010 7:05:43 PM EDT
[#8]
Cool thanks for the tip! One more question: can a suitable stripping compound be found at a Home Depot, or is there a specific stripper required for removing the blueing?
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Posted: 3/11/2010 3:06:18 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
can a suitable stripping compound be found at a Home Depot, or is there a specific stripper required for removing the blueing? When I asked the guy for that specific product he told me they didn't have it and that I'd want to check with the larger gun stores around as they should have it. He seemed to know his stuff and he knew it was for a firearm (in fact he seemed to know a little about refinishing guns). Unless somebody else here chimes in with something they know to work and is safe to use on your firearm, I wouldn't use anything else. You don't want to take a chance of messing up your firearm, at least I wouldn't. You can get that kit directly from the manufacturer here for $15 Linky |
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Posted: 3/11/2010 4:42:43 AM EDT
[#10]
dudes i polished my bolt in 20mins. heres how i took a 3m scuff pad green took the blueing off in like 5 mins. then i took 1000 wet sand paper to the bolt and i used water and some soap while sanding. then i put the bolt on a bench grinder with a polishing wheel atatched to the grinder and some metal compound. done i can see myself in it now. got the buffing wheel and metal compound at habor frieght $10. if you don't have a grinder a dremel will work fine just take longer to polish the bolt.
 
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Posted: 3/11/2010 5:57:07 AM EDT
[#11]
Looks nice.
GJ. |
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Posted: 3/11/2010 7:06:41 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
Looks nice. GJ. thankx brother |
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