How bout a ring clamp to help?

Am I missing something about how to sight in a ComBloc optic? Let me review w/o pictures and hopefully my proposition or question might make sense.

I know there are different scales, etc, etc, but let’s just say you set the elevation turret to 1 for 100m.  

1) You shoot a group.
2) Wherever the group lands you are supposed to loosen the turret’s two opposing screws (not the center one) and
3) twist the turret to raise/lower the chevron to the group with your right hand (I’m right handed) while
4) using the finger tips on your left hand to hold the thin graduated elevation ring stationary all while
5) looking through the scope.
6) The rifle must be firmly clamped in a lead sled or similar NOT to move.

So I’m using both hands all while looking through the scope and hoping to keep the rifle still. Same process for windage which is even harder if your are right handed.  This is what you do for POSP, POS, PU, PE, ONM76B and similar scopes – correct?  Am I missing something?

This is a hassle, messy and imprecise.  I can’t imagine this is how Russian snipers zero their scopes for extraordinary distance accuracy.  If this is in fact the technique then wouldn’t it make sense for there to be some external clamp that you could place on the elevation/windage rings to keep them stationary while you fire and adjust the turrets?  I’m almost tempted to gently try this with a small vice grip or similar.  The key will be to keep the clamp from moving.  Shrug . . . maybe some Gorilla Tape will do the job.

Ideas?  Clarification?  Feedback?

Shoot a group,
move the reticle so your POA is the same as your POI,
loosen screws,
rotate your turret back to 1 (if you were at your 100 yards or whatever),
tighten screws,
win.

Rotate the turret? Or the graduated ring back to 1 ?

Rotate the graduated drum back to "1" and retighten screws.The drum should move back easily without the black top dial moving.

"1" is the setting for 100m 'IF' your elevation drum is numbered 1-10 and a BDC turret like it is on the original PSO-1 for example.

I've had a PK-A, a PK-01v, three POSP 8x42s', a PSO-1,1pn34 and 1pn58 and a 1pn21 and all have been a piece of p#ss to zero.As for zeroing for long range most Soviet/Russian optics are zeroed at 100m, often by having a poi XXcm above the poa at 100m thereby giving an accurate 300 or 400m zero.

Thanks for the insite guys.  Looks like I've been doing it the hard way.

In this case I a looking at one of these

PO 4x32 L Pilade w/ 9 Setting Illuminated 1000m Reticle

Bit of a different animal but the manual is pretty clear.

http://kalinkaoptics.com/manual/KOPOscopemanual.pdf

http://kalinkaoptics.com/manual/KO4x32_L_8x56_L_PiladeManual.pdf