What are the best options for magazines for the slr-106 models (5.56/223).?
I guess the circle 10 20rd and 30rd are options.
What about the 30rd. FB Radom Beryl mags. currently available at Atlantic; are they ok also for this ak type?
The only other option I've seen, is a ProMag 30rd.

I picked up some of the Bulgy Circle 10 mags a few years ago for $35-45 a piece and some black Beryl mags for $30 a piece. Unfortunately the prices have gone up exponentially. If you can find a Bulgy (10) for $45 you should get it, Circle10AK had some as of last month I believe.

Recently a bunch of clear Beryl mags were imported and available for sale. I purchased 4 from Arms of America for $33/mag + $10 shipping. The downside to these mags is that they don't have any steel reinforcement so you're basically paying $35 for the equivalent of a PMAG.

Unfortunately the only options are the Bulgarian Circle 10s and the Polish Beryl magazines so there's no "cheap" option. I'd recommend grabbing some mags sooner than later because when they're gone, they're gone, until the next batch makes it through customs.

Clear Beryl Mags
Clear Circle 10s

Avoid any mag with "ProMag" on it like the plague...

Bulgarian Black or Green Circle 10 are the mags you want.  Steel reinforcements.

The mags your rifle was designed for.

Good Stuff!

BIGGER_HAMMER

Beryl mags should work. I got a 106cr (bad idea) in January and deciddd to just put down the money for gen 2 Black ((10)) mags. The only option is the forum marketplaces though.

The clear ((10)) mags will crack if you get them, usually first place is the front lug. They still work when cracked but who knows how long.

Why was the 106cr a "bad idea" did you have issues with it?

First range trip went alright, 300 rounds, had two instances where it fully extracted and ejected the spent case but failed to strip another round from the mag, shot 90% brass that day. Second range trip was bad, another 300 rounds, mainly Tula, many instances of extraction failure. I  had to mortar several stuck cases out of the chamber.

After that range trip I cleaned it well and oiled it liberally, I took it out again on Tuesday and shot about 200 rounds, mostly brass with no issues.

I don’t know if there is something wrong or if it just needs to be worked in. I’ve had no such problems with my 107FR or my 104UR and the problems I read about people having issues with the 106CR’s just makes me think it’s a piece of shit. I’ll probably try to put another 500 or so rounds of Tula and brass through it and make a decision if I should contact Arsenal or not.

I was having similar issues with all ammo. Due to the fact that it was throwing brass over 60 feet I determined it was over-gassed. The CR series is designed around a 12” barrel and it is gassed for a 12” barrel. So if you were to SBR it and do a barrell chop it would be gassed properly in theory. The reason the 107cr doesn’t have extraction issues is because the 7.62 has more of a taper and there’s less friction when it’s extracted.

So basically, because it’s over-gassed the bolt moves to quickly to grip the case to extract and slides right past. Sometimes it partially extracts the round, the metal expands, and the is slammed back into the chamber. That’s why you have to mortar it out.

I installed a KNS adjustable piston in mine and it solved the over-gassing problem and I haven’t experienced any malfunctions since. Hope this helps.

I'll look into the adjustable piston. My only concern is modifying the original bolt carrier and voiding the warranty. I believe Arsenal's current solution is to add a restrictor to the gas block. Do you happen to know if the 106CR's use a '74 bolt carrier? I'm guessing no.

@CarnageRush

Your issue may come from Mixxing your 5.56 ammo

Mixing Brass & Steel ammo in 5.56 is a bad idea, no matter which platform you run.

5.56 is straight walled, which can cause performance issues based on the chamber more so than the tapered chamber & cases of the 7.62x39 & 5.45x39.

If you have to shoot both types of ammo, Highly recommend you shoot the Brass FIRST, then shoot the steel.

Brass Cased ammo has a softer brass case that expands more at the case mouth to seal the chamber much better than steel cased ammo.  Better sealing of the case mouth (and thus the chamber) keeps the chamber clearer of fouling debris.  Because the chamber is kept cleaner, brass cased ammo tends to run smoothy.

Steel cased ammo expands less at the case mouth, which allows much more fouling debris into the chamber (dirty & rough).  Steel ammo cases doesn't expand much (harder and smoother), so that fouling doesn't affect steel cased as much.

If you shoot steel ammo (getting chamber dirty and rough) and then shoot brass ammo the brass will expand more and grip the dirty chamber and often causes performance issues.

If you shoot brass, you should be great.

If you shoot steel you should be great

If you shoot BRASS FIRST, THEN STEEL you should be great

If you shoot STEEL FIRST, THEN BRASS you may have problems...

Try this out and I'd bet you will see a big difference in performance...

BIGGER_HAMMER

P.S. - Tula is about the lowest rung of 5.56 ammo.   Dirty as Hell + being low powered = plenty of opportunity for fail!  If you shoot steel cased 5.56, I'd recommend Wolf or Monarch Vs. Tula.

Arsenal’s warranty is only good for 1 year and involves you paying to ship it to them and a 1 month turnaround time. Wasn’t worth it to me for something I wanted to install anyways.

It’s true that firing steel first can foul up the chamber but you issues are from over-gassing not chamber issues. To test it out, clean it real good and run brass only and you’ll see that you still have the same issues.