Boltcutter rivet squeezers

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Boltcutter rivet squeezers

Posted: 2/27/2006 2:48:07 AM EDT

Looking for some info on coverting a set of boltcutters into a set of WECSOG rivet squeezers.

It appears to me from the pictures I have seen one of the jaws is ground down to allow it clearance into the trunion(s) and receiver. Yes?

Are both of the jaws cutting edges ground flat as well?

What tool do you use to do the grinding with? Will a bench grinder suffice or is the material too hard?

Lastly, what size boltcutters are ideal for this type of work (and can they be a cheap HF type brand)?

Posted: 2/27/2006 4:11:25 AM EDT

[#1]

www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=88. There's other threads about them also for more pictures/ideas.

A bench grinder works fine. I think 24" is the right size. I think 18 is not quite enough leverage and 36 is too unwieldly. People use 18, but get 24 if you can. Cheap ones will work fine.

Grind as little off as you have to to get it to fit in the trunnion. They can break under the stress if you remove too much material and weaken them too much.

Posted: 2/27/2006 10:10:41 AM EDT

[#2]

Also, make sure to round all corners that you grind and keep the metal cool by dunking in water after you grind for a bit. I made a set of 24" cutters and they worked great at a build party I had this past weekend.

Good luck!!

Posted: 2/27/2006 4:24:26 PM EDT

[#3]

Thanks for the info and link guys!

Posted: 2/27/2006 4:29:10 PM EDT

[#4]

Didn't somebody have these for sale already modified? Or perhaps it was just the jaw pieces that were for sale. I thought I had seen them online somewhere but I'm not sure.

Posted: 2/27/2006 5:20:25 PM EDT

[#5]

The pair WillysWagon had at our build party worked great. He had a set with a welded on plate with a divot that made nice round heads.

It would be great if he could post a pic. I'd like to make a set myself.

Posted: 2/27/2006 6:22:30 PM EDT

[#6]

Ask and you shall receive

The divet plate (a welded on bolt head) holds the rivet head in place while the 'crushing side' is cut down so you can crush the trunnion rivets and not have to do any further grinding to allow the barrel to slide in. It also works well for the rivets on the mag well part of the trunnion.

I used a 6" bench grinder from Sears and the bolt cutters were 24" HF type, $8.99 I think. I had a local shop weld the bolt head on and then ground it down myself.

Hope the pics help.

Later,
Kyle

Posted: 2/27/2006 7:09:59 PM EDT

[#7]

Who did the welding for you in the Springs?

Thanks.

Posted: 2/28/2006 3:03:54 AM EDT

[#8]

Quoted:
Also, make sure to round all corners that you grind and keep the metal cool by dunking in water after you grind for a bit.
Good luck!!

These two points can't be repeated enough!

ETA: Also remember your safety glasses when grinding.

Del

Posted: 2/28/2006 3:44:40 AM EDT

[#9]

ETA: Also remember your safety glasses when grinding.

Del

The grinding dust is nasty too, so maybe get a HF respirator to wear.
Blow your nose after grinding and you'll know what I mean

Posted: 2/28/2006 3:52:43 AM EDT

[#10]

Quoted:The grinding dust is nasty too, so maybe get a HF respirator to wear. Blow your nose after grinding and you'll know what I mean

you would be a FOOL not to listen to this advise. if your snot is catching this much grinder/iron dust, imagine how much is making it to yout lungs. as me how i know.

caspian

Posted: 2/28/2006 4:10:31 AM EDT

[#11]

.

Posted: 2/28/2006 8:02:07 AM EDT

[#12]

Quoted:
Who did the welding for you in the Springs?

Thanks.

Some shop north/east on the street behind Fargo's Pizza, I think it was AMS welding. It was $25 min charge, but I got some pieces of bar stock I used on top of the flat jig. I'll also make my own trigger jig with the extra bar stock as well.

Posted: 2/28/2006 8:28:37 AM EDT

[#13]

This is the best way to get the rivets seated correctly. The dimple is in the actual surface of the jaws.

Posted: 2/28/2006 1:42:39 PM EDT

[#14]

Originally Posted By Hammer in PA:
This is the best way to get the rivets seated correctly. The dimple is in the actual surface of the jaws.

www.gunco.net/gallery/data/500/medium/MVC-120F.JPG

www.gunco.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Bolt_Cutter_Riveter.jpg

~~Who sells those? I'm half tempted to just buy a good set than to try to make my own.~~

I'm retarded. Found them after I posted

Posted: 2/28/2006 2:01:42 PM EDT

[#15]

I make and sell the ones shown above. I only make small lots as I'm not into production runs. Also, I only sell what I've made, I don't want to get into selling more than I can make. Quite a few people have fallen into that trap and the customers end up getting screwed.

Posted: 2/28/2006 6:07:13 PM EDT

[#16]

How much for a set and do you have any?

Posted: 2/28/2006 7:31:35 PM EDT

[#17]

I'm sorry to say that my latest batch is already spoken for. I will be looking at making another soon. But like I said, I try to make them and have them ready for sale before I offer them out. I do this work as something to keep me busy and unfortunatley the weather plays a role in their manufacture. Cold weather sucks for grinding and painting.

I don't want to get into prices on this post but you can find one of my EE items under tools.

Posted: 3/1/2006 12:41:41 AM EDT

[#18]

Which is better the 18" or 24". I bought 18" to modify, but I havn't started to grind and drill yet.

Posted: 3/1/2006 3:48:45 AM EDT

[#19]

I modify the 18" cutters, they are easy to work with and let you get close to the work to make sure that everything is setup correctly before squeezing the rivet (like any tool, if used properly they will last a very long time).

However, they won't do the rear lower rivets on an underfolder, I use a different riveter for that job. Many like the 24" but for me, their just to big and clunky (IMHO).

As with many things used to build the AK type rifle it's what works for you that counts.

Posted: 3/1/2006 12:21:22 PM EDT

[#20]

aw crap. I was going to buy boltcutters specifically for the REAR rivets on an underfolder...

Posted: 3/1/2006 12:23:46 PM EDT

[#21]

Hey Hammer,

Those bolt cutters look pretty sweet.

Posted: 3/1/2006 1:09:49 PM EDT

[#22]

Originally Posted By Hammer in PA:
I modify the 18" cutters, they are easy to work with and let you get close to the work to make sure that everything is setup correctly before squeezing the rivet (like any tool, if used properly they will last a very long time).

However, they won't do the rear lower rivets on an underfolder, I use a different riveter for that job. Many like the 24" but for me, their just to big and clunky (IMHO).

As with many things used to build the AK type rifle it's what works for you that counts.

Will the 24" reach the rear lower rivets on an underfolder?

Posted: 3/1/2006 1:26:42 PM EDT

[#23]

Quoted:

Will the 24" reach the rear lower rivets on an underfolder?

Yes, but you have to cut away some metal from the jaws to get them to fit.

Posted: 3/1/2006 1:28:15 PM EDT

[#24]

Quoted:
Quoted:

Will the 24" reach the rear lower rivets on an underfolder?

Yes, but you have to cut away some metal from the jaws to get them to fit.

Cut some metal off of where? The outside of the jaw?

Posted: 3/1/2006 1:41:25 PM EDT

[#25]

Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:

Will the 24" reach the rear lower rivets on an underfolder?

Yes, but you have to cut away some metal from the jaws to get them to fit.

Cut some metal off of where? The outside of the jaw?

Where the arrow indicates...