Contemplating building a romy kit with drive screws as my first build.

Here's a question re demilling the kit:

So I just cut off the rivet heads, remove the leftover receiver, grind the rivet stubs flush, then drill the new holes right into the rivet stubs?

Seems almost too easy.

Be sure to drill out the old rivets completely.  You need clean holes for the drive screws.

If you do not remove the barrel I don't see how you could remove the rivet completely.  The flattened end of the rivet is pushed up against the barrel correct?

But if you drill the rivets out altogether, aren't the holes then too big to use the smaller-size (#8s) drive screws?  I'm going off of the stickeyed post.

Also, I do not plan to remove the barrel so it would be tough to completely drill out the rivets in the front trunion.

You do not have to completely drill the old rivets out.  I have around 500 rounds through mine, and I didn't completely drill the old rivets out.  I set my drive screws into the remainder of the old rivets and it is working just fine so far.

I agree with Dale...

I used a regular rivit on the rear of the front trunion, and two drive screws on the front two on each side.

Didn't have to press barrell or anything like that.

Don't have 500 rounds through the 5 I built, but about  that many through them all

Good luck

How are you guys installing these ? I don't have a press yet and was wondering if there was any other way to install them. If I have to buy a press, I will probably just use the rivets.
Thanks !

Quoted: How are you guys installing these ? I don't have a press yet and was wondering if there was any other way to install them. If I have to buy a press, I will probably just use the rivets. Thanks !

I pressed mine in, but I don't see any reason you couldn't dremel a dimple in a punch and hammer them like that.

I just used a regular hammer to beat mine in.

If it mars up the head, I just dremell it .

I planned on using my bench vice to squeeze 'em in. Any reason this wouldn't work?

Thanks for the replies to my question.
I have another if you guys have the time. I want to use #8 size drive screws but there are so many different ones, that I don't know which to get. I was wanting to build a Yugo with this method to try it out before I build any others like this. So my question is, Which one of the #8's do I get ???

dont take out the complete rivet. leave the rivet right where it is and just drill down the center of rivet. make sure its the correct depth and just wake with hammer the rear trunion the same .youmight have to use a press . I did but thats only becuase I used 3/8 udrive . I also used udrives for center supports on both side and just dremil the selector side flat enuogh so the selector goes over the udrive if you need some ckeck herear15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=123&t=326228

Quoted: I have #10 drive screws.  What size drill bit is correct for this size?

Gloftoe.  What I did to determine the correct size drill was to measure the end of the drive screw where there are no threads with my caliper, and that is the size drill I used.

here is my one of my build with drive screws

Quoted: If you do not remove the barrel I don't see how you could remove the rivet completely.  The flattened end of the rivet is pushed up against the barrel correct?

From my DIY Screw Build Thread: www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=86

Rivet Removal:

You will need a set of drill bits, also an automatic center punch helps. First center punch the rivet head, this gives your drill bit a place to start and keeps it from wondering off the top of the rivet or going crooked. Start with a small bit drilling down into the rivet head. Work your way up with progressively larger bits, if your dead center on the rivet head it should spin off. You can also use a chisel or pin punch to knock off the rivet head. Once the rivet head is off, start again with a small bit working up to progressively larger bits drilling into the rivet shank, GO SLOW AND STOP PERIODICALLY CHECKING YOUR DEPTH, DO NOT DRILL INTO THE BARREL!!!! As you drill out the rivet shank it will loosen up and begin to spin. I then took a 3/32 Craftsman pin punch and using a sanding disk in my DeWalt drill I ground the punch down into a makeshift chisel. With this makeshift chisel and a hammer I began to chop up the remnants of the rivet shank. To remove the remnants from between the barrel and trunnion I magnetized a metal scribe and fished out the pieces........you may choose to magnetize the punch just the same. Now your ready to tap your trunnions.

Quoted: I have #10 drive screws.  What size drill bit is correct for this size?

From McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/
No. 10 —0.182" Dia.; Hole size: 0.161" (Drill #20)

Quoted: Okay weird. I ended up just drilling out the rear trunion rivets, and my rear trunion holes are LARGER than the #10 u-drive screws?  wtf? I didn't drill outside the rivet (went down the middle the whole way) with a small drill bit.  Then pounded the rivet out.  This is a Romanian kit that I got from DPH Arms.  Anyone know if they have larger than normal rear trunion holes?  Thanks.

some people have to use 3/8 size u drive screws on rear trunions that have been already demilled

I'd just use rivets for the rear trunnion if you have already drilled them out. I think the top one is just a large rivet, push it through and pound the rear of it with a hammer and shape the mushed in up with a dremel to make it look purty.

Gloftoe..

You are supposed to leave the rivit in the trunion...(drill trough the rivet, and then put drive screw in the whole you made in the rivit..)

I don't drill all the way through the rivit, just enough to put the drivescrew in ...

Also, I made a hole a little too big on one side...I filled it with JB weld and then drove the screw into that..(a little too big, screw stil fit, but not as tight as I would like...could pry out with screw driver)

I have about 50-60 rounds through one..no probs.

Good luck

Tag so I can understand what I am doing later

Quoted: Quoted: If you do not remove the barrel I don't see how you could remove the rivet completely.  The flattened end of the rivet is pushed up against the barrel correct? From my DIY Screw Build Thread: www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=86 Rivet Removal: You will need a set of drill bits, also an automatic center punch helps. First center punch the rivet head, this gives your drill bit a place to start and keeps it from wondering off the top of the rivet or going crooked. Start with a small bit drilling down into the rivet head. Work your way up with progressively larger bits, if your dead center on the rivet head it should spin off. You can also use a chisel or pin punch to knock off the rivet head. Once the rivet head is off, start again with a small bit working up to progressively larger bits drilling into the rivet shank, GO SLOW AND STOP PERIODICALLY CHECKING YOUR DEPTH, DO NOT DRILL INTO THE BARREL!!!! As you drill out the rivet shank it will loosen up and begin to spin. I then took a 3/32 Craftsman pin punch and using a sanding disk in my DeWalt drill I ground the punch down into a makeshift chisel. With this makeshift chisel and a hammer I began to chop up the remnants of the rivet shank. To remove the remnants from between the barrel and trunnion I magnetized a metal scribe and fished out the pieces........you may choose to magnetize the punch just the same. Now your ready to tap your trunnions.

Quib you are referring to doing a screw build, where you tap the holes for button head screws.  What everyone is talking about in this thread is using "U Drive" screws which do not require tapping etc.