I'm not an expert, but the following is the sum total of my knowledge and experiance to date, and what seems to me to be the preferred methods to receive the desired results.
Don't oil quench, it seems to me that there is just enough advice oput there that you'll have a difficult time getting a finish to adhere as the metal's "pores" are "open" and will slam shut upon quenching, trapping oil within the metal. These "pores" then open up later when you get the weapon warm from rapid fire, and cause the finish to slough off.
Not to mention theh fun of the oil/ATF fluid bursting into flames when you jam a cherry red peice of metal in it. Whee!
Heat treat rails first, a kiln is ideal for this, quench in a solution of 1lb rock salt, 4 gals tepid water and 6 oz dish soap. Heat the rails to 1600F, IMMEDIATELY quench.
Heat the Hammer pivot pin and trigger pivot pin holes on either side with a MAPP gas torch, it's best to use a welder's crayon to see when you've achieved 1500F. Quench as above.
An excerpt from an article I found here....IIRC by an ARFCOMmer-
Heat the part or the hole to its critical temperature. Only attempt ONE hole at a time – it is difficult keeping multiple pivot holes at the critical temperature. The rule of thumb is that the part loses its magnetism when the critical temp is reached – this is true, but difficult to do without having three hands. Another option is to get some Templaq from Brownell’s – it melts at a very specific temperature. Welding crayons can do the same thing. Instead, I use a simple color chart that attempts to determine the temp by the glowing color of the metal. Here is what I go by:
Faint Red 950-1050º F Dark Red 1150-1250º F Dark Cherry 1175-1275º F Cherry Red 1300-1400º F Bright Cherry 1475-1575º F Dark Orange 1650-1750º F Orange 1750-1850º F Yellow 1800-1900º F Yellow/white Over 2000º F
Since the critical temp of 4130 is 1475 degrees, heat the part until it is glowing a nice cherry red. Practice on scrap and try to not do this in direct sunlight so you can see the color.
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Remove the scale from all metal surfaces.
Spot weld your rails in place.
Once the rails are in place, do ALL of your fitting and mock assembly. Once this is accomplished, take the receivers, and put 'em in Mommy's oven. Crank the heat to 550/600F (Most kitchen stoves only go to 550F) and maintain for 1- 1 1/2 hours, then reduce the heat by 50F every 45 minutes thereafter, once to 0F on the dial, let 'em sit til morning and the heat is fully dissapated. Your recievers will be "blued" in appearance (That's the oils in the metal being drawn to the surface and oxidizing) they are now tempered to approximately 40-50 range of Rockwell hardness.
Another excerpt-
Temper the part carefully with the MAPP torch. Since we want FAR lower temperatures this time, the item should never glow. Once again, you can use Templaq or welding crayons, but the cheap and simple way to just observe the part. As the metal heats, oxides form on its surface, giving a decent estimation of temperature. Here’s a chart:
Pale Yellow 350º F Straw Yellow 400º F Yellow/Brown 450º F Red 500º F Violet 550º F Dark Blue 600º F Light Blue 650º F Blue/Gray 700º F Gray 750º F
So, shoot for a violet/blue color. If the blue disappears, its still OK just don’t go much higher than that. Once again, practice on scrap before you try this on your receiver.
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