I'm planning on a rivet build using simple handtools and my trusty BFH. I've got all the rivets out, and the barrel pulled, and I'm just waiting for the rivets to arrive.

I have a plan on how to do the rivets next to the barrel:
1) Install rivets with their heads against the barrel.
2) Grind rivet head slightly to allow barrel to be reinstalled.
3) Reinstall barrel
4) Install receiver over rivet stubs sticking out
5) Start flattening process by squeezing two opposing rivet stubs in a vise.
6) Finish riveting by tapping with a punch

Using this method, I'll be using the barrel to back the rivets, but I assume that the barrel should not have a problem backing the rivets. The force needed to form the rivet heads should be sinificantly less than the force to dent the barrel.

Does anyone have any better suggestions? I can't find round stock the correct size to fill the space left by the barrel, so this method popped into my head...

I imagine that would work if the appearance of the finished rivets isn't a concern. You will need to make sure that the barrel fits against the rivets tightly or the rivets may not buck up tight. I'm sure that others will post here that you are still going to need some kind of riveting tool to buck the lower rivets.
If you look around here or do a search, you'll find other options for riveting tools. There are a number of ways to do it. You can modify a bolt cutter or buy or make a riveting jig.

So you are putting the rivets in backwards?   This may actually work.

It won't looks as good as doing it the right way, and a set of bolt cutters is pretty cheap and not too hard to modify.

But I do think that it will work and you will end up with a tight rivet. Bravo for thinking outside the box.

Seems awfully silly to buy a special tool just for the lower rivets on the front trunnion. I could also put the rivet with the head on the inside, then cut a small length of steel bar to fit between the two opposing rivet heads inside of the receiver and then use the vise to flatten them just like I proposed with the upper rivets.

I figure I can putz with the flattened part of the rivet and try to hammer it into a round head shape. It may not look professional, but then again, neither does my Romy kit.

Can I ask why you want to do it this way?  You can get a pulley puller at an automotive store for around $15 to push out the barrel with.  You can easily put the barrel back in with a hammer and a vise.  A pair of 24" bolt cutters from Harbor Freight are about $15 ($9 on sale).  You can also push the barrel pin out with a hex bit, a vise and a nut.

Quoted: Can I ask why you want to do it this way?  You can get a pulley puller at an automotive store for around $15 to push out the barrel with.  You can easily put the barrel back in with a hammer and a vise.  A pair of 24" bolt cutters from Harbor Freight are about $15 ($9 on sale).  You can also push the barrel pin out with a hex bit, a vise and a nut.

Ummmh. I already have the thing disassembled using nothing but my hammer - including drifting out the barrel.

Now, the bolt cutters I'll consider adding for riveting. I'll see if HF has them on sale this weekend; if so I'll stop by and pick up a set.

Quoted: Quoted: Can I ask why you want to do it this way?  You can get a pulley puller at an automotive store for around $15 to push out the barrel with.  You can easily put the barrel back in with a hammer and a vise.  A pair of 24" bolt cutters from Harbor Freight are about $15 ($9 on sale).  You can also push the barrel pin out with a hex bit, a vise and a nut. Ummmh. I already have the thing disassembled using nothing but my hammer - including drifting out the barrel. Now, the bolt cutters I'll consider adding for riveting. I'll see if HF has them on sale this weekend; if so I'll stop by and pick up a set.

Then you've already done most of the hard part.  Riveting with the bolt cutter is pretty easy.  When I made mine, I just used a photo of someone else's pair as a rough template and went from there.  I also did some practicing of rivet squeezing before I did the real thing.  It never hurts to have an extra set or two of rivets.  Good luck!

This is the method they used in the Shotgun new article...

The only thing you need to do diferently then you descrbe is get the receiver onto the trunion and then stick the rivets throughboth the trunion and receiver.  Perhaps clamp things as needed. Then press in your barrel.  The hole in your trunion and receiver can be tricky without the barrel in there so with th ebarrel in there you are headed for major frustration!  Specifically, I don't think there is any way that you will be able to get the receiver over the trunionn with those rivets sticking out after the barrel is pressed in.

If you can post oucs of the process I would be curious to see them!  I really don't see a huge difference in doing them this way then the way we do the rear trunion rivets where we need to make the one side of the head and if you make some nice bucks to use when you squash these they may look great.

I built an AK welding the rivet stubs to the new receiver just because I was too cheap to mess with a riveting jig.
After seeing the rivet squishers made from bolt cutters, I thought that was interesting, but I thought it was a waste of money to modify a $70 set of bolt cutters for 1 or 2 rifles.

When I learned that Harbor Freight had bolt cutters for $10 bucks, I bought a set and I rivet now. Granted, I wouldn't want to use those things for cutting bolts, but they make GREAT rivet squishers.

I will continue to use the vise and big hammer for the rest of the build though.

Have fun,

The Other Chris