Well, maybe not all AK's but when it comes to build projects it seems like a lot pf people put it into a catagory of it's own.

I realize that when it comes to price these darn things are probably the most expensive, and as far as condition of the parts in the Krink kits they are in exceptional shape. But the basics are still the same aren't they? I mean, you build a Krinkov kit just like you would any other AK don't you?
There's a front Trunion & rear, and a bunch of other parts to be riveted on.

What I'm asking is this: Just because a Romanian kit for instance is cheaper, does it make it any easier to build than the more expensive Krinkov? I would think the more worn Romy kits would be harder to disassemble than the newer, cleaner Krinkov parts. I have been told to practice building cheaper AK's before tackling my Krinkov kit, and I DO understand the thinking behind that, but what needs to be done to get a Romy kit running is the same things that need to be done in order to build a Krinkov right? Or am I missing something?

In either case, I would try not to screw up as much as possible. I know I can gain alot of experience through  building other AK's before the Krinkov, and a better working knowledge of what to avoid.  But the same can be said no matter what kit I start with first. If I work slow and carefully I hope to keep mistakes down to a minimum. I would approach the Romy kit the same way if it were to be my first.

Your suggestions are not falling upon deaf ears guys. I originally wanted to build this Krink from scratch, but you all convinced me to use a premade receiver instead of a flat. That alone has changed the whole feel of this project for me. Again, it's because I know you all are right.  I don't want to send this kit off to someone else to build. I want to put this thing together myself to gain the experience of it.
I have wanted a Krinkov ever since the first time I saw one.  Other AK designs are affordable enough to where I'd rather just buy one outright instead of building one. That's why I'm planning on building my Krinkov 1st.  I appreciate all those of you trying to look out for me by suggesting building a few AK's first before trying to put together the Krink, but the Krink is all I really want...or need.

I think all AK's are cool. I just think the Krinkov is the coolest, and that's why I want to build one. If it were the cheapest most unpopular AK I would still want one first. Just so happens it's not.

its alittle diff then a norm ak but for the most part your right its the same as any other ak
the main reason peeps prolly told you to build a rommy first is a rommy is 80 bucks and a krink is 500+
if you ruin the rommy no biggy you can still sell most the parts and get your money back
if you dont you got good pract and if you dont want it you can sell it for more than you payed for it

the rommy has a standard stock so its alot easyer to build

but if your dead set on building the krink first i dont see why you cant
just take your time and if you run into trouble just ask for help  

Thanks Candyman, I plan to.

I really don't plan on screwing up anything to the point where it cannot be fixed. I have gone over what needs to be done and shy of drilling right through the barrel when disassembling I really can't think of any all destroying act I can do to this thing.

Being that the Romy has a standard stock and is easier to build really don't help much when it comes to the Krinkov. I will still have to cut the holes for the underfolder for the 1st time while working on it. I guess what I'm trying to say is: It will take just as much work and effort to put together a cheap build as it would the Krinkov. There are no shortcuts to be had if I want to build a quality AK. The more I read and study the posts here the more clear this fact becomes.

When it comes to builds, it's like Krinkovs need more care than other AK's. To me, ANY AK build needs the attention.

Rivets still need to be removed and cleaned out, as well as holes marked off and drilled. The same amount of care would need to be taken in tempering the stress points on the receiver (unless premade) and the same attention needs to be taken on reassembly or else the weapon simply won't work, or function dangerously. If the same amount of time and effort needs to be spent in building one AK from another, why not spend that time on something you deem worthwhile?

I guess it's a reverse way of thinking I got while building AR15's. The same amount of effort is needed to piece one together, so why not use the best pieces you can afford? It doesn't have to be the BEST, just the best you can get. While an AR15 is far easier to put together than an AK the theory remains the same.

Anyway I just wanted to let you all know where I was coming from. I'm not some know it all too smart for my own good, nor am I a rank beginner with no realistic idea of the job that's ahead of me in this build.  I really appreciate ALL the advice I have been getting and I have changed my mind about how to do this build because of it. Thank you very very much for all of your inputs. If there's ANYTHING I truly am aware of, it's the value of the advice you guys are sharing with me.
I can't begin to tell you how valuable I think all of your opinions are. I WILL need help with this build, and I WILL need to humbly ask it from you guys. I am new to AKs and thats a fact. Thanks again everyone.

E

If you are willing to buy the correct tools you can build anything you want and it will look great...  Flat built guns, if done with the proper tools and built with care look just as good or BETTER then 100% receivers!

The problem is that the process of building an AK is best learned with experience...  My first build was a screw build and I have a few egged holes and a few other things that I notice as I built the thing...  The pistol still shoots fine however and I can fix it but it will need a new receiver...

My second build looks much better, and it is a screw build too...  I leaned a few things and didn't make the same mistakes...

I am on my third build now and I am really taking my time (partially because I have so little time) and I have invested big bucks in all the gizmo jigs so I hope I can get a factory level quality....

Just the same, I am still learning and I am leaning on my least expensive kits...  I have a Yugo Krink as well as a few PMKM and PMKMS and Tantial kits but I have not so much as touched these kits with a dremel yet...  I am building some well used AMD-65 kits and the Romanian kits first as I can afford to learn and make mistakes with these.

Why you may ask... perhaps because I am a coward perhaps or because I can buy SEVEN low grade Romanian kits for the price of my Krink kit...  now, I am also planning to SBR my Krink as well as my last really nice AMD-65 kit so before I spend my hard earned money on my taxes I want to make darned sure I know what I am doing as these will be done on 100% Global 1.0 receivers with a serial number that matches my kits.

Building ARs is something a child can do...
Building FALs requires some skill and tools...
Building AKs is MUCH harder and will help you develope skills...

YMMV as I have seen people jump in and build a Krink first...  Just not me and you CAN NOT base your experience ASSEMBLING an AR-15 with BUILDING an AK!  Unless of cource you bought a raw forging and milled it out and made that into a working gun as if you can do that then building an AK is childs play!

Oh I totally understand where you're coming from Q, and no one thinks of you as a coward.

As for me, well I have slapped together AR's true, as well as 1911's prior to them and I agree, a child can assemble an AR. But unlike a AK or AR, building a 1911 calls for alot of "custom fitting" and the mating of parts that were never intended to work with each other. I doubt very much of my experiences building 1911's will come into play while building the Krink either, because unlike the Krink, work on the 1911 meant the altering of cast and forged parts.

The same basic dynamics do however apply. A semi-auto firearm follows a similar pattern as others in its basic function. For the AK's, it seems like sheet metal knowledge comes into play, something I am already familiar with being an autobody tech and having several years experience as a custom sheet metal fabricator. No, I don't think making patches or aircondition ducts are the same as building a receiver, but again, the same basic rules and techniques do apply.  Building a custom battery box for a '32 Ford 3 window coup may not be the exact same as putting a AK receiver together, but it does take the same planning skills and the ability to create something out of basically nothing. Building an AK does take craftmanship albeit sheet metal fabrication and not any artistic input is needed. Everything is basically there for me to asseble with no much planning involved at all. It was the planning of a project that took up most of my time while the actual excecution of the build was the fast fun part. Well, with these AK flats the planning is pretty much taken care of for me, and all I have to do is finish it. So you see, while I may not be as experienced as all of you in building AK receivers, I am looking forward to this build with anticipation, and very little apprehension if any at all. I see a well planned project set out before me and all I have to do is excecute. Just like any other job, 'cept this one goes bang when I'm done...hopefully.

I am positive that my attitude towards this project would be different had I not  had any previous training in sheet metal fabrication and welding, so I totally understand where you are coming from as far as your theory of learning through experience. I agree with it. That's why I'm approaching this project as if it were any other: whether it be reconstructiing a missing piece of the cowl pannel on a Willy's pickup, or constructing a custom stereo moulded dash for a 2006 Honda Accord. It's just another piece of sheetmetal that needs to be measured and bent, welded and refinished.

Thanks again for all of your help fellas, I really appreciate every bit of it. I'm looking forward to getting started with this project, and while there is no time limit to it, I hope to have a picture of it to share with you soon. I already have plans on custom finishing the foregrips & handguard in a deep candy apple red stain with urethane clear over it, and it's gonna turn heads for sure! LOL!

really, the most important part, is making sure your holes are in the right spot..

install the trigger guard first, trim down the reciever where the "rails" fit into the front trunion , untill it slides in there nice, with no gap.  Putin a magazine, and fit the front trunion so the mag is as tight as you want it.

then use the reciever cover to fit the rear trunion placement.

sounds simple huh?



for a first time builder without tools, screw jobs are easiest. But it you spend some time it is easy enough to build a few jigs, and make a rivet tool. And presing out a barrel isn't as bad as it sounds.
I saw a krink screw build at the last gun show... made me sad, to see suck a fine weapon built that way.

(listen to me, I sound like a gun snob)

IF you do go the screw route, use a clamp and drill press to keep the tap strait, so the holes don't get stripped out, and oyu don't break a tap..

>>install the trigger guard first, trim down the reciever where the "rails" fit into the front trunion , untill it slides in there nice, with no gap. Putin a magazine, and fit the front trunion so the mag is as tight as you want it.
<<

santanatwo
Hey -- that sounds like a good idea. Thanks for the tip!!

finally got myself a krink bulgarain

Thank you so very much for the hot tips santanatwo!

I am looking forward to all of this stuff. I was looking the kit over and came to the conclusion that I would be needing to pull the barrel out in any case if I wanted to do the job right. I think I have a bearing puller that's do the job, at least size wise but until I get started I won't know. All my parts haven't come in yet. I ground off the rear trunion from the folding stock though, and that was easy enough.

The way I figure, removing the barrel from the front trunion should give me open access to the old rivet backs. Without the barrel there I should be able to punch the old rivets right through right?

Also, is the barrel of the Krink held on only bu that one pin on the trunion? It's all I can see. I have been looking for a schmatic of a Krinkov but all I've found is a regular AK, so I'm gonna use that as a reference.

I still haven't receieved my rivets and spacer yet, so I decided to wait on assembling anything. I still have to rip the rest of the kit apart.  

Quoted: finally got myself a krink bulgarain

you got a bulgy krink?,....where how much?

im building a yugo krink,..its would be a lot easier to use a pre made reciver,..if im not happy with how the yugo turns out with the flat reciver ill re do it with a pre made one,...just take your time,..take your time,..take your time.

if you build from scratch youll pick up a world of wealth along the way.

good luck,..a first time builder can get it done,.. i know because im about half way through my first build.

but seriously e mail me with how you found that bulgy kit please.

yes u are right......that large pin that runs thru the trunion is what holds the barrel in, press or punch that out..then the barrel
also here is a little trick..before u knock that pin back in, put it in the freezer overnight! u guys all know what happens to the metal when it gets cold right?
u are on the right track!

I just put some WTB out there
I’m getting 2
7.62 missing front trunnion but I’m going milled so that’s ok New in wrap
5.45 complete minus rec. of course  New in wrap  
Paid about $50 more than what the Yugos are going for
So needless to say I’m HAPPY with my finds