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Posted: 8/5/2005 6:00:21 PM EDT
[#1]
'cause you'll have the other end of your rivet in the barrel, which isn't a good thing
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Posted: 8/5/2005 6:24:46 PM EDT
[#2]
AFAIK, that IS what people do when they "screw build" Drill, Tap, Screw, Shoot.
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Posted: 8/5/2005 6:50:37 PM EDT
[#3]
You can do that. I did it that way on my first build. It is not, however, how the factory did it. If you decide to remove the barrel, you will be able to see that the rivets were installed before the barrel was inserted in the trunnion. You can tell because the internal side of the rivet is crushed flat. If they were put in after the barrel, the internal side would be round, like the barrel. Also, pulling the barrel is not as big a deal as it seems. It is actually easier, IMO, than trying to drill the trunnion without going too far and perforating the barrel. All you need to make it easy is a punch (or 1/4 bolt), hammer, cheap 2 jaw puller, a length of all thread rod and some antiseize. Total investment of less than $25.
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Posted: 8/6/2005 3:30:17 AM EDT
[#4]
why ? cause there is a good chance you will be posting either "i drilled into my barrel" or
"broke a tap threading my trunion" how do i fix it... Do your self a favor and remove the barrel from the trunion ,,, then remove the rivets ot tap for screws... Yea i know alot of you guys were sucessfull doing it with out removing the barrel but look at this and the other forums there are a ton of posts where people did break a tap, or drill in their barrel , or wallered the holes out to big trying to drill out the rivets.... |
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Posted: 8/7/2005 1:48:05 PM EDT
[#5]
Just weld the front part.
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Posted: 8/8/2005 7:40:34 AM EDT
[#6]
"then just drill new rivet/trunnion holes for the front four? They could be drilled in a bit different area,"
What Pat said. Plus you can not change the location of the rivet holes, they have to be in the relieved area of the trunnion. |
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Posted: 8/9/2005 11:01:23 AM EDT
[#7]
You undoubtedly have noticed that a couple of the holes in the front trunion are counter sunk as well. This is very important for a good rivet build. The new, bent metal shell, or store bought receiver must be counter sunk pressed into these divets in the front trunion. This will give the trunion, new reciever, and rivet a much stronger mechanical bond.
Yours, One Rusty Nut. |
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Posted: 8/9/2005 3:43:29 PM EDT
[#8]
How hard is it to get the barrel back in the exact same place?
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Posted: 8/9/2005 4:12:35 PM EDT
[#9]
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=51&t=74235
another example .... remove the barrel..... |
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Posted: 8/9/2005 6:24:00 PM EDT
[#10]
I removed my amd 65 barrel with a vice and a grade 8 bolt for the pin, and a brass punch and 25c worth of pennies. No damage done to any parts. Now I need to ante up and buy a reciever and get this thing done, and better yet, buy a rommy kit before their out of them, if they arnt already.
I am planning on reinstalling it with the clamp method, and if that doesnt work, I will BFH it back in as that is what alot of others have done. Later |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 7:40:46 PM EDT
[#11]
beating out the barrle usually isn't as hard as trying to tap.. and you get the satisfaction of knowing it's a factory build. Make your own special tools. And make the tools to make the tools.
when I made my divots, I drilled down with a small drill, then took a big drill and ground off a little of the tip, then drill into the pilot hole, and then wiggle it around gentallly to round it. gives perfect divots. If fact I even press out the barrle when I AM going to do a screw build. The only time I don't is if the darned thing is stuck. |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 7:42:50 PM EDT
[#12]
I said that wrong.
Use your tools to make the tools to make ak(s). |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 7:58:21 PM EDT
[#13]
+1
Like santanatwo said,
Good to see you back, D!  I've used the BFH method, vice, and punches on most builds and it seems to work out OK. Not as easy as a press, but definitely doable in most instances! |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 8:37:19 PM EDT
[#14]
Whats the BFH method?
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Posted: 8/11/2005 10:53:06 PM EDT
[#15]
the BIG frickety HAMMER = BFH
*** wonders if the press fairy will give me one, if I leave leave an AK under my pillow?*** |
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Posted: 8/12/2005 10:53:19 AM EDT
[#16]
Also known as a "SeaBee Engineering Device" or "Chevy Tool". |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 6:45:00 AM EDT
[#17]
So, can the barrel pin be driven out, or do I need to drill thsi as I would a rivet?
Also, can you be a little more specific about the use of the brass punch, Grade 8 bolt and handful of pennies? |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 10:17:00 AM EDT
[#18]
Drive the barrel pin out with a hammer and a punch. It will come out. It's not rocket science (I mean, it's just like working on a car--use some elbow grease). If you've ever done anything with bearings on cars or bikes, this stuff is easy. The pennies are to protect the chamber when pressing the barrel out (after the barrel pin is out). A brass punch further protects everything. Anything you can use to grab onto the trunnion and press out the barrel will work. Gear/pulley puller, hydraulic press, I-bar, hammer.... It's just like working on a car and pressing things in and out. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 11:27:03 AM EDT
[#19]
Squeeky, thanks for the barrel pin info. I thought I may be able to grind the rivet heads off and punch them out, but that hasn't worked. So I wasn't sure if the barrel pin was easier to remover or not.
I got a bit confused on the bolt/pennies. I thought you were using them to remove the barrel pin. I knew how to use them to remove the barrel. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 12:14:41 PM EDT
[#20]
No problem. A lot of people have been having a time with the barrel pins on the Romys, but I've pressed out 4 or 5 without a problem with a BFH. IMO, the BFH is faster and easier than the other methods and much more effective than a vice. Good luck. |
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Posted: 8/15/2005 3:25:10 PM EDT
[#21]
Is there one direction thats better than the other?
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Posted: 8/15/2005 6:43:14 PM EDT
[#22]
I don't think so, but I always drive from the non-charging handle side. |
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Posted: 8/16/2005 6:04:40 AM EDT
[#23]
Although the pin is not tapered, and will press out in either direction, the preferred method is to press them out left to right, which is the opposite from the way they were pressed in. |
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