Who will press the barrel into the trunion for me and how much will it cost? - Don't know about this one, may be you machinist friend has a press and can help you out. It is not too bad if you have a press, jigs, plates, and a chamber guage for .
Should I get the underfolder kit (keeping in mind that I am not using the underfolder) and save a few bucks since it comes with the trunion, or is there a reason to get the other kit and buy a trunion? Don't know sounds good to me.
I want to get all black furinture. Anyone know if I have to (and can) get specific krink furniture, or is it the same furniture as another kind of AK? Krink Furniture is unique to krinks.
The front sight/gas block looks like it is just an attachment to the end of the barrel and is threaded for accessories. Is this correct? Does it pin on, screw on, or does it require welding?
It is pressed and then pinned.
In addition to the kit, all I need is a receiver, a trigger guard/mag catch/selector stop setup, a rear block and the screws, right (plus tools, of course)? Do they include all the necessary pins in the kit? They should include all the various pins, ask K-VAR there good folks, and have answered my questions in the past.
As far as the tap and die set, the guide to screwing together an AK says "taps were ground down to allow bottom tapping". I am not familliar with this, can someone please explain? It is so that the tap can go into the bottom of a blind hole and cut threades, a starting tap has a tapered point on it to aid starting, a flat ended bottoming tap can thread to the bottome of a blind hole. Instead of buying two types of taps you can grind a starting tap flat on the end.
With the k-var kits, it appears that the barrel and front trunion are separated and I will be using the rear block instead of the rear truntion, so I don't need to worry about rivet removal anywhere except on their demilled trigger assembly set, right? I don't follow this question, are you asking abot the rivets in the trigger guard ?
How are the triggers in these kits? If they could use improvement, it seems like I could replace the trigger at a later date ya? You will probably want to replace the fire control parts with US made one to maintain a proper parts count - although a pistol may not need the US parts at all now that I think about it.
What about a Left+Right side selector? Do they sell the receiver cut and drilled for this or do I have to do that myself? I am a lefty so this is important. For attaching it, I was thinking of tapping the reciever and drilling the hole in the lever slightly larger than that and using a screw for the pivot pin (on my KTR the pin is soldered or welded on). Is there a better way? No I don't think anyone sells a receiver for a left handed saftey lever, you could modify the existing leve by adding a lever to the left side, an ambidextrious safety I suppose. If I were you I would just use your off hand to operate the safety
You are asking good questions and doing your research upfront. I suggest you consider doing a build of a realitively cheap AMD-65 kit or somethong similar to pratice on before building a more expensive and slighty harder to build gun like a krink. The krink is a little tougher in that the length from the rearsight block/hinged action cover to the rear trunnion is very critical.
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