First build:
Got an AMD65 kit. Question: On the rear trunion, there are the remnants of two rivets on each side. Do they go all of the way through? Should I drill out all of the way through or are they in a certain amount.
Also, is there a trick (before I start and screw up) in drilling out the rivet remnants on the front trunion? I do not want to have to press out and press in the barrel.
Thanks in advance.

They are long rivets and go all the way through.

On the front trunion just go slow.  If you get too agressive you will drill into your barrel.  Once you get the rivets thinned out enough they will either spin in their wholes or you will be able to bend the thin walls of the rivet over and pick/pull them out.

Thanks. I'll post pics when I'm done.

Center tap the rivet, then start drilling with a small size dril bit, then work up to bigger size bits. That's the ticket.

If you are planning on drilling ANYTHING on a firearm, please invest in a brand new
"cobalt" drill. High speed is crap, the so-called TiN coated are usually gold spray-paint
over a cheap CHINESE high-speed (if that!) bit. Hint: if the Titanium Nitride coating
rubbs off after you drill one hole...It "ain't no titanium nitride"....

The cobalt I use has a slight gold tint to it. Carbide is better than high-speed, if you can
get it. Carbide has a dull almost stainless appearance, but will weigh heavier by any
comparison. Do not bother with "tool steel" or "high speed" for a firearm, they are fine
for the kid's bunk bed! I have never and will never re-sharpen drill bits. When they go, they
literally "GO". Chances are the heat has softened the original spec's right to hell anyway.

I used regular bits. Since the rivet is softer metal, they worked fine. I guess if you need to do some superdooper stuff, you might need those superdooper bits....

Thanks for the drill bit info. I've never thought about that. That explains why all of my bits lose bite so fast even with cuttingfluid (I drill a lot of metal).