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User Panel
User Panel
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Posted: 7/24/2003 3:21:28 AM EDT
[#1]
print on mylar, not paper. mylar is not affected by humidity and does not stretch. mylar is available from drafting supply stores. i suggest 3mil thickness, double sided matte.
attach using spray adheasive available at hobby stores. the template must be applied centered and straight on the steel. as there are variances in the steel bend radii, i think (never having used an ak template mask) i would apply the template in 3 separate pieces (bottom and two side panels) and align the botton one centered side-to-side. the side panels i would apply using the front edge and top edge of the receiver as alignment reference points. |
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Posted: 7/24/2003 4:59:35 AM EDT
[#2]
would mylar print easily in a ink jet printer?
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Posted: 7/24/2003 5:49:41 AM EDT
[#3]
Just a note. A print that comes with 80% bend metal receiver is actually shorter then a real receiver. And differs from Dr.Strangelove's print, that in its turn differs from the let's say hesse receiver. So i'd just measure and mark cuts and holes without glueing on the template.
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Posted: 7/24/2003 8:45:42 PM EDT
[#4]
Why not do it the foolproof way, and borrow a sheet metal rec. factory made AK from a friend. Field strip it and make your own drawings, or better yet locating fixtures from an existing, known to work example. Can't go far wrong that way.
Pete |
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Posted: 7/25/2003 10:58:10 AM EDT
[#5]
The Strangelove print is incorrect for a 47 it has been modified for a 74, which makes it too long in the magwell, as well as locating the trigger guard too far back. it is OK from the front, up to a point directly behind the first 4 holes needed for the magwell cutout. It is also OK from just in front of the last 2 holes of the magwell to the back of the receiver. |
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