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Posted: 7/15/2020 11:15:24 PM EDT
[#1]
They both pretty much say put a couple drops of CLP on it with different wording?
What in the world are you asking? Had me all curious if they had something dramatically different. I just use a spray bottle of CLP or Lucas oil. Or leftover 5w30 |
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Posted: 7/15/2020 11:38:05 PM EDT
[#2]
I'm guessing this is the difference that is being asked about.
FN: Notice! Do not apply lubricant to the gas rings on the bolt or the interior of the bolt carrier. These components are not to be lubricated in any way. Using lubrication in the gas system may damage the rifle and cause malfunctions. Colt: 6. Generously lubricate cam pin hole, bolt rings and outside of the bolt body and a light coat on the extractor and pin. 7. Lightly lubricate charging handle and inner and outer surfaces of the bolt carrier. Generously lubricate sides and cam pin area of bolt carrier. I lightly oil the bolt at the two spots where it makes contact and slides against the carrier. I thought I was running my rifle on the dry side but according to FN even my going light is to wet. |
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Posted: 7/16/2020 1:13:13 AM EDT
[#3]
WD40 in the chamber while on the range.
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Posted: 7/16/2020 2:01:23 AM EDT
[#4]
Guess I've been doing it wrong this whole time because I soak the entire bcg and rub it all in really good with my fingers then I pop it in and cycle the action around to get it spread out real nice all around the inside. Then I go shoot it to spread the lube around to all the nooks and crannies. I never had a problem doing it like this.
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Posted: 7/16/2020 4:47:01 AM EDT
[#5]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p78CIdnkzNE
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Posted: 7/16/2020 6:46:44 AM EDT
[#6]
  
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Posted: 7/16/2020 7:13:56 AM EDT
[#7]
Getting ready to change into someone more comfortable. Name changes coming.
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Posted: 7/16/2020 7:38:58 AM EDT
[#8]
I’ve drenched my BCG in Slip for years and never had an issue. The excess will either burn off or spray off.
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Posted: 7/16/2020 7:59:55 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ve drenched my BCG in Slip for years and never had an issue. The excess will either burn off or spray off. |
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Posted: 7/16/2020 9:26:50 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ve drenched my BCG in Slip for years and never had an issue. The excess will either burn off or spray off. I have been covering the bolt and firing pin with oil and then put it in the carrier. no problems yet and I don't have the build-up of carbon and fouling that has to be scraped off. scraping and grinding on pieces of a weapon doesn't appeal to me so I will continue putting oil on the bolt and everything else until results dictate I do otherwise. |
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Posted: 7/16/2020 10:39:23 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryYes, this is the correct method to apply lubrication. The bolt carrier has 6 contact points: the 4 rails, the bottom where the hammer rides, and the cam pin. The bolt has 2 contact points: the center rail (the raised part of the bolt near the middle of the extractor), and the gas rings. The extractor has 1 contact point the springs. All you need to do is lube those points and you're good to go. The manuals tend to be a "stupid" proof where they just tell people to lube the entire bolt carrier or bolt and not to over lube anything so nothing can collect. It's a sure bet that you'll likely touch the mentioned areas listed above, even in small parts and you'll be good to go. Also remember in the military you get CLP. They just tell you to wipe everything down with it, and simply wipe it off. They don't talk about friction or lube areas. Back when they had LSA, they would get into a little more detail with it but the problem is you had to use solvent, and generally what happens is you leave some solvent behind that evaporates and leave areas unprotected. With CLP, even if you missed spots, you left behind something that isn't totally destructive. |
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Posted: 7/16/2020 1:40:18 PM EDT
[#12]
Wetter is better.
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Posted: 7/16/2020 1:58:07 PM EDT
[#13]
motor pool method.
submerge in oil drum, remove shake place in rifle. |
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Posted: 7/16/2020 8:39:25 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wetter is better. Yeah buddy. |
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Posted: 7/18/2020 9:53:31 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: motor pool method. submerge in oil drum, remove shake place in rifle. Yes, this is a great way to do it as well. If you have a mason jar, you can fill it with oil, then you dip the front half of the carrier into it. Let it sit for a minute so all the oil gets into the carrier, then you take it out and let it drip for a bit and you shake it. You got a very wet bolt carrier that's ready to go. I have seen several people do this method of oiling their bolt carrier. However, you need to shoot fairly soon as the oil can ooze into the lower and gum up after some time. For me though I don't like applying oil all over the bolt carrier. I like applying grease to just the wear points and have gone into all day use for classes I had taken. In one case I got someone on a grease brand I like after they asked how I am able to have a functioning rifle while others had to put oil mid day.If you lube it right with a good quality lube (oil or grease) you can have a functioning rifle and shoot all day long in comparison to CLP method of wiping down the entire carrler/bolt surface. |
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Posted: 7/18/2020 2:00:40 PM EDT
[#16]
I’ve never understood why FN doesn’t want lube on the bolt or inside the carrier. I’m sure that the guys that wrote the manual are way smarter than me, but I like to generously lube the bolt, cam pin, and carrier rails before I reassemble everything. Once the BCG is assembled, I place a large drop of lube on both the front and rear of the cam pin. Lastly, I lube the gas rings by placing a drop of lube through each vent hole. After I put the gun back together, I wipe off any excess with the bolt closed. The guns are ready to shoot the crap out of them and they clean right up when the time comes.
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Posted: 7/18/2020 2:54:28 PM EDT
[#17]
This is what CherryBalmz says:
“Gas rings and bolt tail: Leave dry, do not lube - the gas is direct, under pressure, and far too hot for any lube to endure long enough to matter, and the friction surfaces are not large enough to be significant in the total amount of friction surface in the gun to matter, if everything else is properly lubed.” Source. I go with the FN/CB method. I do not lube the rings or tail. I grease the bolt, cam pin, rails on the BCG and rails inside the upper. Done. Well, a bit of oil on the CH as well. |
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Posted: 7/18/2020 5:26:36 PM EDT
[#18]
Guess I've been doing it wrong this whole time because I soak the entire bcg and rub it all in really good with my fingers then I pop it in and cycle the action around to get it spread out real nice all around the inside. Then I go shoot it to spread the lube around to all the nooks and crannies. I never had a problem doing it like this. Same, until it doesn't work I'm not changing anything. |
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Posted: 7/18/2020 7:40:54 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: WD40 in the chamber while on the range. Good luck with that..... I have had to work on may firearms that came into the shop, with the actions stuck, and it was always someone who said "I don't understand, I keep it lubed with WD40". Every one of them freed up after an over night bath in acetone. |
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Posted: 7/18/2020 8:56:08 PM EDT
[#20]
WD40 is a cleaner, nothing more.
Grease is great, until it's -20F and your gun deadlines. |
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Posted: 7/18/2020 10:28:22 PM EDT
[#21]
Thank god I live in Texas, and only see +30 degrees temps 1 or 2 times a winter.
Haven't seen anything in the negative temp range since I moved here from the Great White North. |
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Posted: 7/18/2020 11:04:49 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thank god I live in Texas, and only see +30 degrees temps 1 or 2 times a winter. Haven't seen anything in the negative temp range since I moved here from the Great White North. Generally short lived here and honestly, the older that I get the less inclined I feel about shooting in subzero temps. Outside of deer or coyote hunting I ride my Lazyboy on those days. |
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Posted: 7/19/2020 12:19:15 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wetter is better. Yep. Just use the proper lube and your good to go. It's simple |
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Posted: 7/19/2020 5:45:11 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have been covering the bolt and firing pin with oil and then put it in the carrier. no problems yet and I don't have the build-up of carbon and fouling that has to be scraped off. scraping and grinding on pieces of a weapon doesn't appeal to me so I will continue putting oil on the bolt and everything else until results dictate I do otherwise. This, I lube the bolt very well, use SLIP 2000 Carrier with SLIP 2000 grease and grease on the BC underside rails, cam pin Been doing this for many years, never an issue. |
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Posted: 7/19/2020 5:45:16 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Generally short lived here and honestly, the older that I get the less inclined I feel about shooting in subzero temps. Outside of deer or coyote hunting I ride my Lazyboy on those days. When I was a kid I loved going out in sub zero temps. Most people don't go out then so I liked not having to contend with a bunch of people & I just liked cold weather. If you don't have the right gear though it's not so good. Now that I'm older & my body wants to fight me even when its nice out, going out in temps even in the teens makes me wince. |
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Posted: 7/20/2020 7:02:06 PM EDT
[#26]
We had all our ARs out when we hit -50f. No issues at all. Tw25b grease. 10.5" through 20" uppers. A buddies AR greased in the same manner, but with Tetra grease, was a single shot until the 4th or 5th round. No jams, but the carrier was too sluggish to strip the next round.
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Posted: 7/20/2020 10:22:03 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: We had all our ARs out when we hit -50f. No issues at all. Tw25b grease. 10.5" through 20" uppers. A buddies AR greased in the same manner, but with Tetra grease, was a single shot until the 4th or 5th round. No jams, but the carrier was too sluggish to strip the next round. @ - 50F my balls would be in my shirt pocket.  I've had my carriers on my 1100s do that same thing, cycling like it was in mud while deer hunting in extreme cold/freezing rain. I blamed Rem Oil for that shit. Never tried Tw25b on my ARs, use it on pistol slide rails though. I'm sure there are greases rated to suit, EP Moly is what I run in the warmer months along with G96. I may have to up my grease game some. |
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Posted: 7/21/2020 1:53:18 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is what CherryBalmz says: "Gas rings and bolt tail: Leave dry, do not lube - the gas is direct, under pressure, and far too hot for any lube to endure long enough to matter, and the friction surfaces are not large enough to be significant in the total amount of friction surface in the gun to matter, if everything else is properly lubed." Source. I go with the FN/CB method. I do not lube the rings or tail. I grease the bolt, cam pin, rails on the BCG and rails inside the upper. Done. Well, a bit of oil on the CH as well. I've been using CB for the last couple of years and have been very happy. Application is fairly easy:  |
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Posted: 7/22/2020 6:33:44 PM EDT
[#29]
I’ve used Mobile 1 full synthetic for more than 10 years. Lube any where there is metal to metal contact. I never cared for CLP, it seemed to gum up real quick.
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Posted: 7/22/2020 6:40:12 PM EDT
[#30]
surprised FN would state that about the bolt and gas rings. To those who use grease, do you put oil on the rings? not sure if grease would migrate into the rings.
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Posted: 7/22/2020 6:46:02 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ve used Mobile 1 full synthetic for more than 10 years. Lube any where there is metal to metal contact. I never cared for CLP, it seemed to gum up real quick. That was my experience as well. I've heard the newer stuff is supposed to be better, but IDK. When you have to shake the bottle to get all the white stuff that is supposed to be either the L or P in CLP you have to wonder how it's going to keep from separating like that after it's on the weapon. First pkg I sent my kid in basic was weapons cleaning stuff. |
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Posted: 7/22/2020 8:22:44 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That was my experience as well. I've heard the newer stuff is supposed to be better, but IDK. When you have to shake the bottle to get all the white stuff that is supposed to be either the L or P in CLP you have to wonder how it's going to keep from separating like that after it's on the weapon. First pkg I sent my kid in basic was weapons cleaning stuff. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I’ve used Mobile 1 full synthetic for more than 10 years. Lube any where there is metal to metal contact. I never cared for CLP, it seemed to gum up real quick. That was my experience as well. I've heard the newer stuff is supposed to be better, but IDK. When you have to shake the bottle to get all the white stuff that is supposed to be either the L or P in CLP you have to wonder how it's going to keep from separating like that after it's on the weapon. First pkg I sent my kid in basic was weapons cleaning stuff. Synthetic CLP, it rocks. |
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Posted: 7/22/2020 8:24:14 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: surprised FN would state that about the bolt and gas rings. To those who use grease, do you put oil on the rings? not sure if grease would migrate into the rings. I do a light coat of grease on the rings outside of freezing temps. |
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Posted: 7/23/2020 1:32:59 AM EDT
[#34]
Quoted: Wetter is better. Quoted: Yep. Just use the proper lube and your good to go. It's simple Sounds like what I told my wife last night   Getting back to the topic, I use one pre moistened sheet of Break Free CLP for all my AR15 BCG and upper receiver lubrication needs after I'm done cleaning. Gun runs like a sewing machine after that. I've got a tray of about a couple dozen containers of cleaning and lubricant products I've amassed over the years. I've almost always gravitate back to Break Free CLP. Just ordered a gallon of Break Free CLP from Brownells to replace the supply I had which lasted me a long while. |
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Posted: 7/23/2020 1:51:19 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: We had all our ARs out when we hit -50f. No issues at all. Tw25b grease. 10.5" through 20" uppers. A buddies AR greased in the same manner, but with Tetra grease, was a single shot until the 4th or 5th round. No jams, but the carrier was too sluggish to strip the next round. Many years ago RCMP tested a bunch of firearms lubes at (IIRC) -40 degrees. TW25b was one of the four that passed their testing. The others were FP10, Eezox and G96. This was before many of the now-popular products were on the market, but those at least are known to work in the cold. |
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Posted: 7/23/2020 10:09:50 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Many years ago RCMP tested a bunch of firearms lubes at (IIRC) -40 degrees. TW25b was one of the four that passed their testing. The others were FP10, Eezox and G96. This was before many of the now-popular products were on the market, but those at least are known to work in the cold. G96 really is near amazing IMO. I have been very happy with it. |
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Posted: 7/25/2020 2:40:42 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: G96 really is near amazing IMO. I have been very happy with it. Had it fail on me around 0 to -5* in my ruger american. It gummed up enough to cause light strikes. I don't think it would be an issue in a centerfire. |
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Posted: 7/25/2020 3:58:11 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Had it fail on me around 0 to -5* in my ruger american. It gummed up enough to cause light strikes. I don't think it would be an issue in a centerfire. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: G96 really is near amazing IMO. I have been very happy with it. Had it fail on me around 0 to -5* in my ruger american. It gummed up enough to cause light strikes. I don't think it would be an issue in a centerfire. Surprised to hear that. Shotgun and AR use it has been great IME. Never had it gum up due to cold or dirty guns. Original is rated to like -50F, synthetic to -75ish. |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 10:16:43 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Surprised to hear that. Shotgun and AR use it has been great IME. Never had it gum up due to cold or dirty guns. Original is rated to like -50F, synthetic to -75ish. Yeah, but we are talking about a rimfire in this case. At first I thought it was the ammo, but after doing a half dozen fail-to-fires and getting pissed I didn't get this big old fox squirrel, I picked up the couple rounds I could out of the snow, reloaded, and tried shooting more. Gun was bricked. Went home, warmed it up, and it fired those rounds. I cleaned the excess oil off the firing pin and haven't had an issue since. Wonder how it will work this year with a 10/22 clone. It cycles in normal weather fine using SV and a silencer, but has a pretty high failure rate without the can. Runs HV any which way. It's a pretty dirty gun so I keep it lubed up. All that oil may not work well in the cold. |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 10:54:16 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Guess I've been doing it wrong this whole time because I soak the entire bcg and rub it all in really good with my fingers then I pop it in and cycle the action around to get it spread out real nice all around the inside. Then I go shoot it to spread the lube around to all the nooks and crannies. I never had a problem doing it like this. The downside of all the extra lube is that it can gum up faster if you don't clean it often. If you lube only the contact points it'll last longer without cleaning |
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Posted: 8/7/2020 11:46:40 PM EDT
[#41]
I’ve been very happy with Slip2000 EWG on the BCG.
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Posted: 8/28/2020 5:44:19 AM EDT
[#42]
I’ve been using this Wilson combat grease and greasing all wear points only. Works great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0dGQ3MDN-Y&feature=share |
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Posted: 8/28/2020 7:12:21 AM EDT
[#43]
I guess I run mine quite a bit wetter than those recommendations.
Oil on the bolt everywhere one piece touches another or the carrier touches the upper receiver. The oil runs out of the upper/lower while it's lying in the gun safe. Amazing I guess, that they still work at the range. And, no more than I fire in a range trip the oil is still burnt off parts of the bolt. |
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Posted: 8/28/2020 7:31:14 AM EDT
[#44]
wtf, you're supposed to lube the bcg?
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Posted: 8/28/2020 10:40:00 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ve been using https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0dGQ3MDN-Y&feature=share Not using Wilson's but firm believer of grease. Actually using an industrial high pressure moly grease, and also cherry balmz. |
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Posted: 10/27/2020 5:31:13 PM EDT
[#46]
Mixed grease and Mobil 1 synthetic oil 50/50.. more or less. It still flows like oil but is kind of grease-like in its properties in that it doesn't evaporate, blow off and tends to stay there longer than 'normal' oil. |
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Posted: 11/6/2020 5:17:05 PM EDT
[#47]
Wet it down!! Any excess will be removed by the 2nd or 3rd shot.
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Posted: 11/6/2020 11:52:10 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is what CherryBalmz says: “Gas rings and bolt tail: Leave dry, do not lube - the gas is direct, under pressure, and far too hot for any lube to endure long enough to matter, and the friction surfaces are not large enough to be significant in the total amount of friction surface in the gun to matter, if everything else is properly lubed.” Source. I go with the FN/CB method. I do not lube the rings or tail. I grease the bolt, cam pin, rails on the BCG and rails inside the upper. Done. Well, a bit of oil on the CH as well. This is the product and method that I use |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 1:24:09 PM EDT
[#49]
I will continue to lube the gas rings like I always have. I have a drawer full of Gucci lubricants but I always go back to Breakfree CLP. I've never had a single problem using breakfree even shooting 500 rounds in a day.
I do use Cherrybalmz on my NiB bolts and 1911 frames etc. |
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Posted: 11/7/2020 1:35:12 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: We had all our ARs out when we hit -50f. No issues at all. Tw25b grease. 10.5" through 20" uppers. A buddies AR greased in the same manner, but with Tetra grease, was a single shot until the 4th or 5th round. No jams, but the carrier was too sluggish to strip the next round. I like tw25b as well. Regular oil tends to disappear quickly in the dry az heat. |
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