I have a plastic bucket with a strainer basket.   I fill the bucket with Mobil 1 and fully submerge parts using the strainer basket.  Parts come clean with little to no work overnight.   My bucket lasts a year or two.

Mobil 1
15W-50 Full Synthetic. I've been using the same qt. bottle for a long time.

I use Mobil 1 in the car/truck/SUVs and what is left over in the jugs is used to lube guns.  I fill up small oil bottles for my use, and for my sons and nephew.  No one has complained yet.

No rust.

Have never tried to use oil as a cleaning solvent.

When I was in the Army in the late 70s we would get a tub of motor oil from the motor pool and soak our M16 parts in that while doing our cleaning--never had any problems. My philosophy, if it ain't broke....  

Ran an AK dry in a class and used full synthetic in a pinch and it worked great.

Mobil 1 synthetic grease in 2” diameter grease gun tubes from the farm last about forever.

Red Line 20W50 for racing engines is about the most sophisticated engine oil there is.  One quart lasts like wise forever.

When my last quart ran out, I tried several gun products none of which were as good.  Several of the fancy names either dry out or cake.

Most recently, SLIP2000EWL seems better than anything else I ever used.  It seems to partially evaporate but leave a thin coating.

This is an old thread and I commented almost 2 years ago...but I think I am going to finally make the switch to Mobil1 for gun lube.

Buying 2 ounce bottle of Slip 2000 for $12 is about $200 a quart to put into perspective

I retired from the company that makes Mobil1 and I have been using it since 1980's in everything that has a spark plug

Bronc

Interesting.

Yes. Being the OP, I'm finding it crazy that this one is still going.

Remember the old frying pan demo, but keep in mind that Mobil-1 has changed formulas in the past 30+ years, which caused a lot of ire in performance auto world.
Not sure the frying pan thing is still valid.

And now they have come out with many different formulas...
Mobil-1 Oils

I’ve been using Mobile 1 0w10 full synthetic for more than 10 years, still have more than half left. I’ve run it when I was on a DOD tactical team which had a seemingly unending ammo supply. We shot thousands of rounds each month. Always seemed to keep our M4’s pretty clean. We all hated CLP never really did anything very good. It was marginal as a lube, marginal as a cleaner, marginal at preventing rust.

I mixed one quart of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil with one quart of Mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid.  Then to thicken it a bit for other applications, I mixed some clear synthetic grease with it until I got the viscosity I wanted.  It is a fabulous lube for AR15, 1911, Glock, and every other firearm I have tried it on.

When you think about it, automobile lubricants are designed to operate under great heat, pressure, and at high temperatures....all the things that happen in firearms, so it stands to reason that the lube would work great.  

Plus, the two quarts of liquid lube, and the tube of synthetic grease cost me a total of around $27.00 for just over two quarts of lube.  Most gun oils cost around $8.00 for 4 fluid ounces...so my lube mixture is far cheaper.

Mobil 1 synthetic for me. I have been using Mobile 1 for over 10-years.

I use a very thin coat of Mobile 1 which works well in all of my firearms from .22 to 8mm.

I just changed over to CLP from Hoppes for cleaning.

BINGO! ++

You should try Shooter Choice for your cleaner. I’ve been using it for about 20 years and don’t think I’ll ever quit using it. It does a much better job than Hoppes and is about 10 times better than CLP. I made some good money cleaning M4s when I was at Ft Leonard Wood. Charge $20 a M4 and would take about 10 minutes to clean, some guys spent over an hour trying to get their M4 cleaned with CLP. We put thousands of rounds threw those M4 each day (7-8 five gallon buckets full each day for 28 students) and the Shooters Choice cleaned them up real quick and easy.

I do agree with your choice of lube.

Can you clarify  what percentage of grease you used and how you got it mixed. It doesn't seem like grease would mix with motor oil but then I never tried it.
I got some synthetic grease just not Mobil 1 type.

Stated this before, worth repeating.  Shell Rotella T6.

Synthetic motor oils like Mobil 1 make sense.  Even better sense are synthetic motor oils designed for diesel engines.  They run richer than gasoline engines and have much heavier carbon particulates.  Diesel oil detergent additives help keep the burned fuel residue and carbon from sticking.  Our direct impingement gas systems are carbon dirty.

Instead of Mobil 1 use Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic diesel formula.

THIS

Any oil is better than no oil.

https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/

I’ve got no dog in this fight but automotive oils are designed to work in a closed system.

And aren't they toxic too? I'm in the process of switching from Break Free CLP to Slip 2000 partially because it's a better lube and partially because Slip 2000 is non toxic.

i mix 1 part  valvoline 140 weight gear oil with 2 parts 10w40...its the best thing i ever used...the 1 part gear oil keeps it on the heavier side so it says on once hot
IMO straight motor oil is far to thin just blows off

have used 10-30 mobil 1 full syn oil for 12 yrs no broblems.

This is an old thread but very relative, especially with all the new firearms owners we have now! That being said, people need to read the owners manuals that come with their gun and lubricate it according to "Factory" recommendations.
I personally have used MOBILE 1 Full Synthetic motor oil (10/30) and MOBILE 1 Full Synthetic grease on firearms for decades now. I began mixing the two about 15 years ago at a 50/50 ratio and use it as an assembly lube with great results.

Gun oils and cleaning products is probably one of the BIGGEST SCAM markets in the world.
Don't fall into that pit and spend $10.00 to $15.00 for 1 ounce of BS oil just because the label said a  "HIGH SPEED DeltaReconSealRangerSF" guy recommends it.

I have used Full synthetic oil as lube and Ed's Red for cleaning for at least 30 years with no issues.

Yes.  In certain turbodiesel and automotive turbo engines, the oil at the center bearing of the turbocharger gets far hotter than 350-400 degrees.  The turbo reaches about 1500 F. on the impeller side of that shaft.  Water jackets pull heat away, but those bearings can still reach 500 F. perhaps higher.

Modern full synthetic oils designed for turbodiesels (Shell Rotella T6) and high performance forced induction cars (Mobil 1 FS Euro Formula and certain others) can withstand temperatures as high as about 700 F.  An oil temperature gauge or sensor in the crankcase will not report the much higher temperature of that oil as it passes through the turbo center shaft and its bearings.  These oils are also formulated to flow freely and provide excellent lubrication in sub-zero temperatures.  

Note:  lots of references to "Mobil 1" and "Mobil 1 synthetic". In this thread.  Br careful.  Mobil makes more than a dozen different formulations of Mobil 1 engine oil.  They are not the same, contain different base oils and additives and serve different purposes.  While all are technically synthetic, they have different properties, different viscosity ranges and have varying resistance to rust, corrosion, wear and heat.  Prices vary accordingly, and for reason.  Some formulations may be only slightly better than most conventional oils while some (like its FS 0w40) are extraordinary.

Rotella T6 and Mobil 1 FS (5w40 or 0w40 viscosity) are great choices for lubrication of our dirty running direct impingement ARs.

So I use a few different lubricants on my guns. But for most moving parts in actions, especially my at-15’s I’m a big fan of Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30 the same stuff I put in my old Lexus. I’ve found that it makes mechanisms noticeably smoother being much more viscous than typical gun oils and the detergents make it extremely effective at dissolving and suspending carbon preventing hard deposits. This is exactly what it’s designed to do and the and the chemical technology it employs is much more sophisticated than in your typical gun oils. I really like it in my 1911 as well, perfect for those tight tolerance metal on metal areas. One caveat to this is that I live in Florida and cannot say how viscous it may get in very cold environments. I also use permatex extreme temp grease (good to something like 1000 plus degrees, the purple stuff typically used on brake calipers, I use this on high pressure and high friction bearing surfaces like Sears, rails, and another spot I like to put it is the detent groove on a safety selector. For external rust protection like wiping down blued barrels(stainless too actually), or the outside of a parkerized 1911 for instance, I like to use those silicon oil rags from Walmart or sometimes rem oil, but I’m starting to favor the former just out of convenience. But all in all, I firmly believe automotive lubricants are superior to most firearms lubes and they’re far cheaper as well.

Racing oil is intended to only last the duration of a single race or until the next tear down,  maybe 2-3 races.  It had no detergent or anti-corrosion additives, or very little.  Its main purpose is to simply maintain oil pressure at lowest friction possible in engines with "loose" bearing clearances.

It may serve fine, but there are better choices for dirty running high carbon direct impingement  semi-auto rifles.

A good high quality full synthetic motor oil with a strong detergent package and high wear resistance is going to out perform virtually all fancy gun oils.  It will be a poor choice for cleaning, however.