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Why are you scraping? Why ruin a cleaning rod? Just soak your Bolt and B/C in Odorless Mineral Spirits. AR-15 » Maintenance & Cleaning » Quib's Bolt Cleaning: Mineral Spirits/CLP Mixture When I was in the Army and they wanted things spotless, I used 000 or 0000 steel wool soaked in CLP, or when this was not available, my pocket knife. |
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I knew about Quib's topic. But apparently this is how it was done in the field, and they didn't have Mineral spirits to mix with the CLP and soak the bolt. I found it interesting, but still use my old bore brush and CLP soaked wad of 0000 steel wool.
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I use bore foam. Soak the tail of the bolt while cleaning the carrier, use a SS brush on the bolt after setting during cleaning the carrier. OR....
I admit, I use a knife blade. Fact of the matter is, the carbon buildup on the "tail" of the bolt is self-limiting and as long as a here-and-there cleaning is conducted- does not require attention AFAIK. (But we all know better) Sly |
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GI’s will do anything to get a weapon clean enough to pass the Armorers inspection for turn-in. Right or wrong. I know, I’ve personally been there.
Since I’m no longer associated with the military, and Uncle Sam no longer pays for my shooting habit and spare parts, I’ll find smarter ways to clean my rifle. Bolt soaking verses scraping is one of them. |
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Use the end of the swing out part of the M249 scraper tool.
Phessor |
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I use the old "brass case" method. No damage to the bolt tail that way.
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Dremel wire brush. Just go easy. I just did 2 a this morning.
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Please explain the "brass case" method.....Thanks,B. |
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You use the mouth of an empty case as a scraper. |
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There's really no reason to scrape/grind/whittle etc on the bolt.
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I have found that the method that works best for me is to just leave it the fuck alone.
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Two inch brass wire wheel. $1.99 at the hardware store. Clean in 60 seconds. |
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yeah ,Mine really does not get crusty enough |
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I usually do, but once it starts to get crusty I feel the need to clean it off. I'm sure nothing really bad will happen but I don't want the metal under the carbon to start pitting. |
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We were doing the bolt thing in 1971 I beleive it is a bolt from a 62 ford I think it was a valve cover bolt ,and I still have the same bolt in my cleaning kit box,never found anything faster or better.push it in pull it out and your done. the theads still are sharp and crisp and you just blow off the carbon and your done.
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If you really want to clean the tail of the bolt, try this method. Cut a small square (2x2) of material from a Scotch-Brite Heavy Duty Scour pad. Put some Kroil on this small square, and fold it around the tail of the bolt and then rotate the bolt back and forth. That sucker will be so clean, it will shine.
HTH Dave |
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That would work, kinda just like steel wool soaked with CLP. |
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I'm not sure why there's so much discussion on how to clean and ar15/m15. I've found it to be a very easy weapon system to clean. Before I go to the range with my m4 I slather every part that will collect carbon with clp. Make sure that the parts don't dry out during the range time. It seems to me that the heating and cooling during firing lets the clp work its way into even the most crusted on carbon. After the range session you can just about wipe everything down with a clean cloth and there will be no carbon build-up left. The rifle does need to get to a sufficiently hot temperature, about to the point where you can't hold on to the barrel.
You can even skip a few cleaning sessions and the clp will still penetrate through the build-up! The only part this doesn't work for is the bore. You will still need to clean the bore as you can't leave much lube in the bore when you go to fire. |
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...........exactly |
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For all you guys that don't scrape, have you ever checked under that little gob of carbon.
Might just want to make sure your bolt tail is not pitted. That's why I scrape, to prevent corrosion on the back of my bolt. |
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The correct answer is above. Mods, yoy can now lock the thread. |
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Lock the thread? Don't think so. |
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+87. Not only does it cause excessive wear, if you take Soot + Water you get Acid. |
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I soak my bolt in SLIP Carbon Cutter. I wipe it off. Whatever comes off, comes off. If any is carbon is left behind, oh well......
I don't scrape squat. Afterwrds, I relube. It's protected against corrosion. It aint rocket science. If pitting occurs, whoop de do. Bolt will break at cam pin or lugs long before tail falls off due to pitting. It you want to scrape it clean, have at it. Just not for me. |
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I don’t scrape either.
The bolt and carrier soaks in my Mineral Spirits/CLP solution while I clean the rest of the rifle. When it’s time, I wipe the softened carbon from the bolt tail with a rag. What little bit that’s left that wants to be stubborn, is gone in seconds with a couple swipes of my bronze GI tooth brush. |
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I have always started out with a high speed grinder, then used a rough bastard file, working my way down with finer files, and eventually wet-sanding the tail of the bolt with 5000 grit sandpaper. The cool thing is, the tail will get smaller and smaller each time I use this method, so not only will it be morror shiny, it will also have that "custom" look we all strive for.
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So basically, a bolt lasts you one range session. Because by the time you get done grinding away the carbon, there’s nothing left but a stub with lugs on it! |
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Just soak it in oil. If water can get thru the carbon, so can the oil. |
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Why so many people insist on doing something the hard way is beyond me. Slip 2000, period. Works better than ANY, repeat ANY, other method I have ever used or seen. Once you convert to Slip 2000 for carbon removal threads such as this one will cause you to roll your eyes.
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I use the Slip 2000 carbon killer stuff and it does work. A freind did a serch for the data sheet and found the ingredients and they seem to come really close to what is in Kaboom. My Carbon killer is getting pretty filthy, I wonder if Kaboom would work the same. |
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I prefer the belt sander/wood rasp method myself, but hey, WTF do I know? |
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Very soft wire brush wheel, about 10 seconds clean I use it also for piston rod on the AK
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Agree, it's a waste of time to clean the back of the bolt. |
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There was a gentleman on this board a few years ago who listened to that exact advice. One day he decided to go against those recommendations given here by others, and clean off the accumulation of carbon on his bolt tail. To much of a surprise he found severe pitting on the bolt. This is the exact reason why cleaning away carbon deposits is important. Needless to say, he wasn’t too pleased with the board members here who recommended he not clean the carbon from his bolt tail. __________________________________________________________________________________ We each have our own levels of cleaning and maintenance that we feel comfortable with. What one person thinks might be totally unnecessary, another person may find reason for based off previous experience. If a person is comfortable with letting an accumulation of carbon build up on their bolt tail, then so be it. But I don’t think it’s wise for a person to criticize those that do clean their bolt tails, just because it’s a procedure he personally feels is unnecessary. Quib |
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Couldn't have been said any better! |
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I dont think people on this thread are"criticizeing" anyone who is cleaning the back of their bolt.Some of us are just saying its a waste of time thats all.No one said Joe sixpack is a fool for cleaning his bolt. Did they person who had pitting on his bolt say the pitting affected FUNCTION?From haveing 8 ar-15's with thousands of rounds though them and never touching the back of the bolt. I (ME) can say 100% IMHO that cleaning the back of the bolt IS a waste of time.. One more question also,what brand of bolt did this person have?And how many rounds had been through it? |
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And that is purely personal opinion. __________________________________________________________________________________ It’s one thing to offer your opinion. It’s another to convey that your opinion is the only correct method. Many people not in the know, view this forum and base their decisions off the input of others. I feel a sense of responsibility goes along with responding to those questions. People who come here looking for answers deserve the most correct factual information available. __________________________________________________________________________________ As far as the detailed info on the corroded bolt I mentioned, I can’t answer that question. I do not have that information. |
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I agree, and not trying to argue with you but i dont think (again) that I (cant speak for other people) was saying that My way was the correct way and was not trying to come off that way.Every one has A way NO ONE has THE way.Its up to the reader do read BOTH sides of a ways to do things then do what they think is best for THEM. |
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I’m not pointing fingers at anyone.
As you can see from my original quote, it is a general quote and not a direct quote. __________________________________________________________________________________
And that Sir, is the message I’m trying to get across. |
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Sounds good sir.Carry on.And im going to make it my goal in 2009 to get you to try WEAPON SHIELD. |
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Ha-ha! Good luck with that! |
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I guess "A good man always knows his limitations..." |
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I have been sitting on a sample tube of TW25B that I may some day try out.
Some day................................. |
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Definitely a tacked thread when you do that. |
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I've been wanting to buy one from some time now. Does it really get rid of that caked on carbon after 1000 rounds of a carbine class? |
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