Ah, yes.  The fresh smell of Cordite in the Spring air...nothing quite like it.  To the point:  I shoot Wolf.  And we all know, the stuff is grungy beyond description.  I barely have time to sneak off to the range and send a few hundred rounds down range on a once a week or a fortnightly basis.  I have even less time to come back and spend an hour or two cleaning rifles at night.  
So, does anybody have a "quickie clean" procedure?  I'm contemplating the following: 1.] A couple of patches in the bore [a must] quickly.  First one 'damp' w/ bore cleaner, the other two or so, dry.   2.] While that's going on have the BC assembly soaking in a jar of kerosene.  3.]  Plunge a DRY chamber brush a couple or so of times to 'clean' the barrel lugs.  4.]  Then quickly brush bolt lugs with GI brush, and towel dry BC assembly.
Screw lid of mayo jar filled w/ kerosene back on, put bolt carrier assembly back into rifle, head up to supper.  I realize that after a few thousand rounds or so, I'll have to do a "deep clean" job...e.g., a GI inspect type job of cleaning.  
Does anybody have an even quicker procedure?  For me the minimum is the bore, lugs, and chamber [somewhat].  So my friends, what say ye?

Quoted: So my friends, what say ye?

If you don’t have time to properly maintain your weapon, send it to me and I’ll see that it gets the attention it deserves.  

Nope I have no idea? I just use PRESTONE and CLP

What you're doing doesn't sound too insane, if you are pressed for time. My question is why not do the same things with CLP? CLP is designed as a cleaner and lubricant, and also has rust preventing ability, none of which are present in kerosene. BSW

Quoted: What you're doing doesn't sound too insane, if you are pressed for time. My question is why not do the same things with CLP? CLP is designed as a cleaner and lubricant, and also has rust preventing ability, none of which are present in kerosene. BSW

Well, CLP is pretty good stuff.  The trouble with Wolf, is that it's so dirty, especially fired FA from a Title 2 M16.  Any residue CLP attracts the powder like a magnet and turns it into crud which seems to turn into a carbon caking rather easily.  
I am wondering if one uses Wolf, if it might be best to maintain the weapon as if it is in a 'desert environment'--with as little dust [i.e., powder] attracting characteristics as possible.
Kerosene is semi-adequate to wash away powder residue.  It will eventually evaporate without leaving a lubricant residue.

Until now, I maintained ARs with time and labor intensity, wiping down all areas both inside and out, generously applying CLP or Tetra to all recommended areas of the action.  Using a filthy ammo like Wolf, complicates the procedure, and elongates the cleaning time considerably.

On the other hand, the Wolf is dirt cheap 'blasting ammo,' and seems to me to be a little less pressurized and gentler [only a little bit], which when firing FA, and might be a little kinder on a Title 2 M16 RR.

I have never tried to run an M16 'nearly dry' before.  I may find myself going to the forward assist quite a bit.  It may not work.  Probably will have to sparsely lubricate the BC assembly at the least.  But the kerosene will wash out the CLP and powder crud.  I'll try it, and report back in the future.  266.

Run bore cleaner through.  Run a brush a couple times.  Run some dry patches.

Wipe down the carrier/bolt assembly with a tooth brush.  Wipe everything else with a rag.

Apply a little CLP.

That should take you no more than a half hour.  Pretty quick job.

Note - this is not how i normally clean my rifle =-P

Quick (CLEANER = *TEAL* can Liquid Wrench ~$2 @ Walmart):

1.  Field strip and hose down entire weapon with CLEANER
2.  Pull 5 patches wet with CLEANER through the barrel
3.  Hose down bore brush with CLEANER and pull brush through 4 times
4.  Repeat #3 two more times then repeat #2
5.  Hose down chamber brush with CLEANER, insert into chamber, turn 1 complete turn, then pull out (repeat 2 more times)
6.  Brush inside of upper receiver, bolt/carrier, and all small parts with nylon brush wet with CLEANER
7.  Insert and turn "Bushmaster Bolt Carrier Scraper (field version) 5 times inside bolt carrier
8.  Dry weapon with paper towels and 12 gauge patches (for chamber and bolt carrier)
9.  Pull 5 dry patches through barrel
10.  Lubricate, reassemble, and function check

(Note:  Liquid Wrench in royal blue or yellow cans contains graphite.  They work but are messy.  Liquid Wrench does *not* have the gummy residue of WD-40)


Super Quick (CLEANER = Primis Brake Parts Cleaner ~$2 @ Walmart):


1.  Field strip and hose down entire weapon with CLEANER
2.  Pull 3 patches wet with CLEANER through the barrel
3.  Pull bore snake (bristles wet with CLEANER) 3 times through the barrel
4.  Hose down Glock brush with CLEANER, insert into chamber and scrub including lugs
5.  Hose down Glock brush with CLEANER, insert into bolt carrier and twist
6.  Brush inside of upper receiver, bolt/carrier, and all small parts with nylon brush wet with CLEANER
7.  Dry weapon with paper towels and 12 gauge patches (for chamber and bolt carrier)
8.  Lubricate, reassemble, and function check

(Note:  Brake cleaner is basically aerosol kerosene and evaporates extremely quickly so the dry portion of the bore snake is enough to dry the barrel.)


Super Duper Quick:

1.  Field strip and lubricate with CLP
2.  Dry weapon with paper towels and 12 gauge patches (for chamber and bolt carrier)
3.  Lubricate (again), reassemble, and function check

(Note:  The "cleaning" lubrication is with CLP and the final lubrication is with auto-parts-store high-temp lithium grease.)

You can also combo these procedures for deeper cleaning (i.e., quick, then super quick, then super duper quick the night before then super duper quick the morning of ...yields a very clean weapon).

Quoted: Quoted: So my friends, what say ye? If you don’t have time to properly maintain your weapon, send it to me and I’ll see that it gets the attention it deserves.

Damn. I was gonna say the same thing