Mind sharing what your Favorite Dry Lube is?  Which ones you've had good results with?

I just use Break Free CLP. Bushmaster, FN Herstal, and other large weapons manufacturers all state to use a CLP that meets or exceeds MIL 63460 in the AR-15/M16 or other weapon systems (P90).

Eezox is excellent.  I'm using it right now and have found it to be a very good product.

I like Militech1, if you apply it right it is the best  dry lube out there

www.mil-comm.com/

ezzox is a great dry lube.

I never used tw-25b in the dry, always way wet.

Everyone knows what a dry lubricant is....right?

Well, you might be better off with a google-search instead.

However, if you decide to use a true dry-lubricant...please be aware that graphite is "bad" for your AR as well as your lungs.

Hotgun

all those kids using pencils, the horror.

Greg, Feel free to use your kid's pencil to lube your weapon...
For those who don't know, I'm referring to powdered-graphite...corrodes AL nicely as well.
Care to stick a tube of powdered graphite up you're nose & breathe deep, just to prove me wrong?
Probably not.
Enjoy,
Hotgun

yes on Al it does I am well aware of that. I just cant see with the the EPA is that they would allow pencils to still be used. you do have to sharpen pencils, kids break them off into other kids legs. Think of the children.

Quoted: yes on Al it does I am well aware of that. I just cant see with the the EPA is that they would allow pencils to still be used. you do have to sharpen pencils, kids break them off into other kids legs. Think of the children.

Graphite pencils should be BANNED FROM CIVILIAN USE DO IT FOR THE CHILDREN!

I would avoid using lubes in areas where you may think a dry lube is needed, i.e. the inside of your mags. Keep it dry! The dry film / teflon / moly finish is enough lube.

The outside of your AR-15 does not need to be lubed/protected (this isn't a AK). The insides should be lubed in the areas needed using CLP that meets/exceeds the CLP spec. This is as per Bushmaster, FN Herstal, other reputable weapons manufacturers. I realize there are better lubes, better cleaners, and better protectants, but if CLP is recommend by FN Herstal for their full-auto military machine guns (240, 249, 50 cal, Mk 48, P90) it should be more than adequate for semi-auto civilian use.

I would avoid using lubes in areas where you may think a dry lube is needed, i.e. the inside of your mags. Keep it dry! The dry film / teflon / moly finish is enough lube.

I use Eezox inside and out on all my mags.  2 coats makes a new dry lube mag look almost like a teflon mag.

The outside of your AR-15 does not need to be lubed/protected

????  Parkerizing is only effective if it has trapped oil inside the pores of the park.  Otherwise, the pores will trap water and hold IT next to the metal.

if CLP is recommend by FN Herstal for their full-auto military machine guns (240, 249, 50 cal, Mk 48, P90) it should be more than adequate for semi-auto civilian use.

CLP is what their main client (the military) uses and isn't going to change to anything else.  It would be very stupid of them to spec a lube that the military does not use.

there are better lubes,  Yes better cleaners, Yes and better protectants Yes, but not by much

Does Eezox dry out or does it stay "oily" ? If it is oily, it will attract dust/dirt/sand and will cause mag malfunctions in the field.

There are better cleaners, lubes, and protectants versus CLP, but CLP works just fine and works very well as a rust protectant. The PS90/P90/F2000/FS2000 is NOT sold to the US Military on a large scale (maybe a few small units), but CLP is still the recommended CLP for these weapon systems!

I was thinking of the upper and lower receivers regarding the exterior protection. I should have corrected it and added that the steel parts should be protected by a light film of CLP and then wiped off (barrel, FSB, etc...)

I am not sure where I'd even bother using a dry lube on the AR-15, maybe inside the upper receiver where the bolt carrier slides around on the 4 bearing surfaces.

Does Eezox dry out or does it stay "oily" ? If it is oily, it will attract dust/dirt/sand and will cause mag malfunctions in the field

It will stay liquid for quite some time if not wiped off, but it will dry.  Every coat I put on I let sit for at least 24 hours before wiping off the excess.  The longer it sets on the metal, the better the coat, IMHO.

There are better cleaners, lubes, and protectants versus CLP, but CLP works just fine and works very well as a rust protectant. The PS90/P90/F2000/FS2000 is NOT sold to the US Military on a large scale (maybe a few small units), but CLP is still the recommended CLP for these weapon systems!

It would be a slap in the face to the military (their biggest client) if they spec'd a different lube for their LEO and civilian weapons.  Plus, it would raise a lot of questions and be a point of confusion if the company had 2 lubes spec'd.

I was thinking of the upper and lower receivers regarding the exterior protection. I should have corrected it and added that the steel parts should be protected by a light film of CLP and then wiped off (barrel, FSB, etc...)

It's true that the hard anodized aluminum parts technically don't need to be protected as well as the steel parts.  Hard anodize is porus, however.  When I was using FP10 on my AR (after a degreasing), it appeared that the anodize would soak up the oil and retain it.  Even after being wiped off with a clean rag, the color of the metal was very different (darker).  I see no reason not fill these pores with a light coat of oil (apply and wipe), rather than something else floating around in the environment.

I am not sure where I'd even bother using a dry lube on the AR-15, maybe inside the upper receiver where the bolt carrier slides around on the 4 bearing surfaces.

I was VERY skeptical of Eezox when I first bought it.  But after I cleaned a couple of mags and felt how smooth my AR's action after a thorough coating, I was impressed.  After shooting (Wolf with no malfs), when I was able to wipe the carbon off the bolt with a paper towel and get the barrel clean with just a few strokes of a brush and 3 patches, I was sold.