Anyone have a listing of  TW specs for AR's?
I know Suppressors and Muzzle Brakes are about 25 ft/lbs. I'm unsure about barrel nut(s).
Thanks in advance!!!

Barrel nuts are 30# minimum, 80# maximum.

Muzzle attachments are 25-30#.

Bolt carrier keys are 35-40 inch pounds.

Rifle buffer tubes are 35-39#.

Great!, I thank you for responding!!!!!!!!!!!

Now make sure you factor in the extra arm (wrench) you're putting on your torque wrench, if you want it torqued accurate!

those numbers are for the usgi tool. If the commerical tools have the same offset as the usgi tool there is no need to factor anything.

So when the Barrel nut needs 30, does that mean the Nut needs 30 Ft/lbs, or do you set the torque wrench to 30ft/lbs. (which will result in a different torque on the nut)

Kinda interesting question.

Using the tool is factored into the torque. set the torque wrench to teh specs and turn.  30# min but not over 80# to get the gas tube to line up.  

Quoted: Now make sure you factor in the extra arm (wrench) you're putting on your torque wrench, if you want it torqued accurate!

If your using a torque wrench, arm length is irrelevant.

Quoted: Quoted: Now make sure you factor in the extra arm (wrench) you're putting on your torque wrench, if you want it torqued accurate! If your using a torque wrench, arm length is irrelevant.

Not with an extension it isn't

keep in mind that these numbers are a little wonky.
look at "Barrel nuts are 30# minimum, 80# maximum."
with the size of the barrel nut and some metal finishes you can get 30# at a little more than finger tight.  80# can come in at "rip the vice off the bench" tight.  the best advice i can give on the barrel nut is to tighten it finger tight or "just snug it up" and try to fit in the gas tube.  if it's indexed and goes in great! STOP!  your done.  don't think you can "make it go to 80 and it will be better.  don't try to "make it to the next notch.  if your half way at finger tight you can try for the next notch but i would clean or polish the finish on the threads and grease them and i bet you can make the second half of the way without torguing to 80.

Quoted: keep in mind that these numbers are a little wonky. look at "Barrel nuts are 30# minimum, 80# maximum." with the size of the barrel nut and some metal finishes you can get 30# at a little more than finger tight.  80# can come in at "rip the vice off the bench" tight.  the best advice i can give on the barrel nut is to tighten it finger tight or "just snug it up" and try to fit in the gas tube.  if it's indexed and goes in great! STOP!  your done.  don't think you can "make it go to 80 and it will be better.  don't try to "make it to the next notch.  if your half way at finger tight you can try for the next notch but i would clean or polish the finish on the threads and grease them and i bet you can make the second half of the way without torguing to 80.

The friction you mention from the metal finishes and what not that cause a 30 ft-lb torque to be reached by using your fingers is a FALSE TORQUE READING. The TM and other armorers state to tighten and loosen the nut about 3 times, using MOLY grease, to eliminate the false reading. This is commonly done with torque-critical fasteners in engines as well. Rust, burrs, and other residues can cause false torque specs. That is why moly grease/lubes are recommended with engine fasteners as well. The TM specs are for use with the GI armorer's wrench ONLY due to the distance from the center axis of rotation (think Crow's Foot wrench). Bushmaster and the TM say to torque to 30-31 ft-lb FIRST (but after tightening/loosening 3 times and using moly grease), then align the gas tube notch. Do not torque to 80 ft-lb.