I found this a while back while looking for information on cowbuy action shooting.  I've done this on several AR's as well as single action revolvers.

1) Make sure the gun in UNLOADED
2) In the case of an AR, break open the action from the rear pin so you have access to the hammer
3) Manually cock the hammer
4) Use your thumb to put a bunch of pressure on the hammer in the forward direction
5) With pressure still on the hammer, pull the trigger
6) Repeat until smooth and crisp

Works every time.  It won't help with the weight of pull, but it has always removed creep.



"I have no professional training" - William Hung

Seems to me, all that does is accelerate the inevitable wear. You might be grinding off the surface hardening too.

I do the same thing with 1911's.  I add a bit of oil to the contact points between the hammer and the sear.  About ten repetitions will smooth the trigger pull up nicely.  I wouldn't apply an unreasonable amount of pressure though.

Wouldn't putting some Flitz on the engagement points help out?  I can't stand stock AR triggers, $75 for a RRA two stage is well worth it.  Since vendors in the EE have NM lowers with various stock options I just buy that way to begin with.  Man, the good ol days are here, what a great time to be an AR shooter.  

The NM 2-stage triggers like the RRA can become 1-stage triggers over time. I wouldn't trust one for a SHTF rifle, but benchrest/range/match shooting shouldn't be a problem.

I'm about to experiment with using the JP trigger and disco spring + stock hammer spring.

How can this happen?

Probably from the set-screws or other adjusting mechanisms getting loose/wearing out. Again, I would not have any problems using a 2-stage for a bench/range/match gun. For duty/SHTF use, I would only rely on the simplest system.

I don't see how a lighter trigger spring or disco spring (short of breaking) could affect reliability, but a lighter hammer spring could produce light primer strikes on hard primers. Right now, my stock single stage triggers are about 7-8 lb but they're sharp/crisp.

RRA has no set screws, but the JP does. If you look at a RRA NM trigger and say a M1 or M14 you will see a lot of the same features.

If a 2-stage can "wear" out so can a single stage.

edit yes keep the stock hammer spring if you are going to shoot mil surplus ammo or mil spec primers. JP yellow spring after about 2k started to give me light primer strikes where PMC would not fire.

Greg: You're referring to just the hammer spring right? I can't see how a lighter/weak trigger and disco spring could affect reliability (other than maybe go to bumpfire mode in an absolute worst case scenario).

I haven't used the RRA 2-stage NM trigger only because after researching on ARFCOM, I read that several people experienced problems where it would eventually become a single stage trigger. I heard that if you have White Oak or some other vendor tune it (through Adcofirearms' service or such) it will be fine. I am not sure how they would tune it though.

I never liked 2-stage triggers very much. My Vepr came with one and I replaced it with a Tapco G2, which has a much nicer trigger (wider, more surface area) with a light pull (1-2 lb, not sure why though). It's not a hair trigger but each pull "surprises" me when the hammer drops. When my Glock had the stock 5.5# connector, the pull was around 5-6 lb and "felt" like a 2-stage rifle trigger. I switched it to a 3.5# connector for a 4 lb pull and its like a long single stage trigger, which I do like. It's all personal preference.

BTW the poor man's trigger job isn't a bad idea, but the new DPMS LPK I installed wasn't bad out of the box. The trigger pull felt the same as my RRA LPK (1000+ rd) with the poor man's trigger job.

Correct just the yellow hammer spring I had issues with. This was with the stock hammer, not the JP speed hammer (low mass).

I did install a low mass hammer, but this was after the yellow spring went bad. I run the gun with  the org Colt springs that came with the gun.

tag

If you need a "poor mans trigger job" how did you scrape up the $800 or so for the rifle? All of my lowers have single stage, military type triggers. The only one that was too heavy was a Cav Arms MKII. I installed a set of ISMI chrome, silicon trigger/hammer springs. They have been 100% reliable and did a nice job of lightening the trigger pull. I wouldnt cut springs or grind away the surfaces on your hammer/sear.

Quoted: If you need a "poor mans trigger job" how did you scrape up the $800 or so for the rifle?

Mastercard

The technique is called "Boosting."  A fellow on here told me about it on my 1911 as after putting in a lighter MS, I found that there was more creep than I thought there was.  I do believe it helped!

Gundraw