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Page AR-15 » Maintenance & Cleaning
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Posted: 7/5/2005 12:44:11 PM EDT
I had to remove my gas key from my bolt carrier today for a maintenance issue.

Other than tightening the two screws down extremely tight, is there anything else that I should be concerned with? Do the screws have to be repeened for them to stay in place?

Thanks in advance.

Brent
Link Posted: 7/5/2005 12:51:03 PM EDT
[#1]
Why did you have to remove the key?  I'd re-stake the screws.  If that comes loose while you're shooting, you'll have big problems.
Link Posted: 7/5/2005 12:58:03 PM EDT
[#2]
I was cleaning the inside of the carrier key with a qtip and the head came off.  

I normally only use pipe cleaners to get inside the carrier key but I had heavier than usual fouling due to a long day at the range. I was using the qtip to apply a some clp to soak the carbon down prior to running the pipe cleaner through.

I could not remove the head of the qtip otherwise so I resorted to removing the carrier key to get the residue out.
Link Posted: 7/5/2005 1:27:54 PM EDT
[#3]
why did you have a q-tip in there?



suppose to be self cleaning and if it does start having problems then go further into it.



after awhile the bolt will stretch causing them to become weak and eventually they will sear off.



leave it alone, theres no need for it.
Link Posted: 7/5/2005 7:27:00 PM EDT
[#4]
yfs200 & eklikwhoa,

I appreciate your feedback.

Some people may consider the bolt carrier key self-cleaning but the Army has taught since day one that you must do a basic level of carrier key maintenance. I don't buy the theory that the gas system doesn't need maintenance.

Typically all you need to do is run a pipe cleaner through the carrier key. This time, I noticed a little extra build up after a day at the range and wanted to clean it well. I have used qtips many times over 17 years and have never had a problem. I only use the qtip on the first 1/2" of the carrier key to apply a little solvent inside of the carrier key to loosen the carbon deposits. The qtips are medical grade, tightly formed, wood handled qtips. These things usually don't come apart. This was a freak thing and I wasn't able to remove the piece that came off.

I did some reading and found out that you don't want to remove the carrier key unless absolutely necessary. If that is done, it is recommened to restake the screws to hold them in place.

So right or wrong, I ended up in a situation where removal of the carrier key was the only way to rectify the problem.

If anyone has any additional words of wisdom, please post them. Thanks again!
Link Posted: 7/5/2005 11:30:21 PM EDT
[#5]
Torque to 30+ inlbs.

Stake the thing so it ain't gonna
move aftrwards.

Stuff happens.



New gas key screws helps.


S-28

Link Posted: 7/6/2005 4:56:01 AM EDT
[#6]
Tweak says he usually laps the gas key to the bolt carrier by squirting some light oil and rubbing it back and forth 30-40 times to make a tighter seal.

I hand lapped my gas key using a metal block and 1000 grit sandpaper so that it is ultra smooth. I then applied a thick layer of Red threadlocker under the key, applied it to the gas key screws and torqued them to 45 in-lb along with staking the key to the screws. I had found a leak while simplying exhaling into a straw attached to the gas port on the key (bad juju perhaps).

In the future, just use a pipe cleaner with some CLP or suitable cleaner. It's supposed to get a bit dirty.
Link Posted: 7/6/2005 8:15:57 AM EDT
[#7]
With ear q-tips, you can burn them out, dont know if that would of worked with the wood version.

degresse all and use new screws and restake.  30+ ft pounds should be enough, I use more.
Link Posted: 7/6/2005 2:06:58 PM EDT
[#8]
Thanks everyone! I really appreciate the constructive replys with good information.

I see a lot of negativity and personal attacks on this site. It is good to see some feedback that doesn't involve someone getting flamed.
Link Posted: 7/6/2005 3:33:46 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
Thanks everyone! I really appreciate the constructive replys with good information.

I see a lot of negativity and personal attacks on this site. It is good to see some feedback that doesn't involve someone getting flamed.



then it wouldn't be in true ARFCOM tradition. Here you go:
Link Posted: 7/6/2005 7:51:37 PM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:
I was cleaning the inside of the carrier key with a qtip and the head came off.  

I normally only use pipe cleaners to get inside the carrier key but I had heavier than usual fouling due to a long day at the range. I was using the qtip to apply a some clp to soak the carbon down prior to running the pipe cleaner through.

I could not remove the head of the qtip otherwise so I resorted to removing the carrier key to get the residue out.



I think the manual suggests putting a drop of CLP in the key after cleaning. This should alleviate the need to use anything other than a "Pipe Cleaner" to clean the key.

Sinclair Int'l, (and probably some others) makes a nice little brush designed to go into the carrier key. Works great and is quick.

Tack
Link Posted: 8/27/2005 2:04:14 PM EDT
[#11]
What hex key size do you need to tighten the screw? Mine just came loose without reason. It is a Bushy too just in case. Also about staking them... how to do it? Do I just screw them and then take a small chisel and tap it a bit or what?

Or would I be better off sending the carrier to BM?
Link Posted: 8/27/2005 4:58:52 PM EDT
[#12]
2 different sizes the carrier key screw can be. I know my bushmaster was not what was listed in the mil-spec, but a 1/32 or so larger. I tighten to 40 in pounds and stake the screws in place.
Link Posted: 8/27/2005 5:39:59 PM EDT
[#13]
9/64 hex bit for the carrier key bolts. The ones listed in the TM are old style 1/8 hex.
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