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Posted: 6/27/2004 5:26:21 PM EDT
Damn this stuff is great, kinda expensive though, but worth it. A little bit goes a long way.
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I picked some up and tried it today
seems to be very slick I can't tell how good it is yet will have to wait till the next outting Drow |
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I use it and IMHO its the best clp on the market.
Its not that expensive...costs me about the same as a bottle of Break Free.16oz. is $14.50.In fact Cheaper than dirt has the Shooters Choice 4oz. bottle for $4.82.Part #23139. How much have you been paying? Raymond |
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Bushmaster 13.95 for the 16 oz bottle, 5.95 for the 4 oz bottle. Fp-10 is all my AR and M1A gets for regular cleaning with the occasional Butch's bore shine for copper removal and sturbon deposites of carbon in the bore on the M1A.
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Last week, I bought my first 4 oz. bottle of FP-10 at a local dealer for $4.99. I'd hardly call that expensive since BF CLP goes for the same price around here.
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I used FP10 UNTIL I found EEZOX. Sorry, it's just a better product, IMHO.
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I love FP 10 also,. But found it to take paint off of one of my painted rifles. It is great on Parked guns but beware on a painted surface. WarDawg
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FP-10 is great stuff!
If you have never used it, go to their site and email them for a free sample, just tell them you are a member of AR15.com and heard about it here... www.fp10.com/ you'll be hooked too! --- Joe |
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Been using it for a few years now. I have free samples of Militec-1, EEZOX, and Slip 2000 that I haven't gotten around to testing.
I haven't found a need to switch from FP-10 but may try some of the others eventually. |
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I just picked up a bottle of the Shooter Choice marked stuff to try out.... its the exact same as regular FP-10. So far... I like it, but I havn't used it enough to say for sure one way or the other.
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I thought it was safe on gun finishes? Are you sure it was the FP-10 that hurt your gun? If this it true I won't use it, there are to many other gun oil out there that that won't hury the gun's finish. |
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I was concerned about that too so I tested it on several gun finishes,like alumahyde,ptfe coatings,powder coat,true oil,lindseed,tung etc..Also checked it out on as many polymers as I could get my hands on.Even went as far as to see what it would do on styrofoam which is easily melted/disolved as you know.Nothing,no issues even after a few months.Even asked the manufacturer if there are any compounds or coatings that should be kept away from the FP-10 and they said no.They even went as far as to guarantee me that there is no danger.
Ive been using FP-10 on my cheap painted CAI Cetme's and G3 for well over a year and have not seen any paint damage,flaking or discoloring. I have also used it on some Teflon and other polymer coated guns,a kimber TLE and and a 92fs as well as some alumahyde painted guns.No issues at all with those finishes.My brother uses FP-10 on his new FN poymer coated high power and no issues there. Ive had the FP-10 smeared on my painted G3 stocks from handling while cleaning,and no paint coming off there. Although it will remove cheaper finishes like krylon and rust oleum which is basically the case with any hydrocarbon oil or even basic 90% rubbing/isopropyl alcohol. FP-10 is just an purified hydrocarbon oil base and has no solvents.From my experience I dont think this is a issue at all. Dont know what happened in Wardawgs situation but I would like to hear the details and what type paint he had come off for personal reference.I think I would give George Fennell at MPC a call and see what he says also. Raymond |
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Holy cow Blankwaffe! You do all the same stuff I do! I have an old wood stock with Tetra, TW25B, Hoppes oil, FP-10, Break Free, Butches oil soaking in. It has been 3 weeks and I will wipe them off and see what has happened to the finish. I'll let you know what happens.
I also put Tetra on some plastic stuff to see if it would hurt them. On some rubber coutch foot pads if I pinched the flap with my Leatherman the rubber would tear when I pulled it. After a week of Tetra the rubber was more flexable and bent and did not tear(I don't know if that is good or bad but the Tetra(oil) did soke it to make it more flexable. On a hard palstic part to a water pump I had 2 identical parts and the un treated part snaped with about the same pressure as the part with Tetra on it after 3 weeks soaking. I just got done lubing my Sig 229 and it has a few plastic parts in the frame. Should I get the Tetra off it or will it be ok? Thank you! |
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SkagSig40,
I feel your pain,this stuff will drive you nuts if you think/worry about it.Its good to see Im not the only gun oil geek back yard test dummy out there though. Ive settled on what I use these days,so I dont do all the lube tests anymore.Almost got wierd for a couple years though. As for the rubber getting soft,the only thing that would worry me about is orings.Use a buna-n rubber and you wont have to worry about that either. Raymond |
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I only put Tetra on it to see what it would do and it "soften" it. I think I'll pass on the Tetra as Tw25B is safer although Tetra does feel slicker between the fingers.
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Yeap for a grease I would stick with the TW-25B for sure.
Like I said my all time favorite gun lube is FP-10 with TW-25B taking second place.Two best gun care products on the market IMHO.Then theres the tried and true trusty old Break free taking third. Those are the only lubes I trust to use. Raymond |
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What do you think about oil Hoppes oil? I used to use it and liked it. Seems to be a clean oil and you can use it whipe down wood to protect it. Seems to be friendly stuff.
Can you BreakFree CLP to wipe down and protect wood stocks? |
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It's not that there's anything wrong with Hoppe's Gun Oil. It works under normal conditions, but no one here reccomends it because you can buy MUCH better products not much more money. |
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Its a decent lube but does not do very well as a protectant,nor does its clean.CLP spanks it butt in all areas.
I dont think I would wipe the stocks down with Break Free,it is solvented and may also darken or soften the wood. Raymond |
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To protect wood I use a light rub of BLO(boiled linseed oil)as needed.Dont use gun oil on the wood myself although I have used Ballistol a couple times on dried and cracking stocks.Worked o.k. but not as well as BLO.
Raymond |
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Nope I mean CLP,Break Free and especially FP-10 spanks old Hoppe's oil.In fact I like the Ballistol oil a heck of alot better than the Hoppe's oil.But hey,Ballistol is the grand father of clp's.
Im just a CLP man. Raymond |
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When you use "CLP" it is a generic term refering to all "CLP's" right, or it there an acctuall brand "CLP"clp?
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Yeap when I said CLP I meant CLP's in general.
CLP I use and prefer above all others...Firepower FP-10 CLP. Raymond |
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Got ya, thanks! I have just started to use FP-10 and can't yet tell any difference over BreakFree. I'm going to do the rust test soon!
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Skagsig40,Wardawg and all who are interested.
I asked the question of "FP-10 and paints" of George Fennell at FP-10 again. If yall have anything to add or ask here is the link to the thread I have started on the subject. p077.ezboard.com/ffirepowerfp10forumfrm30.showMessage?topicID=55.topic HTH Raymond |
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My input on FP-10 is based on its use on custom built IPSC pistols. A number of years ago I was witness to the use of FP-10 on a newly built Stainless Steel pistol, SS slide & frame, which was built very tight. The pistol would not fire more than a few rounds before galling while using a number of different lubricants including grease. On a return trip to the range and after nothing more than a cleaning and lubing with FP-10, which we didn't have the day before, the same gun ran flawlessly without any sign of galling. I have used nothing else on all of my firearms since and it now comes in small aerosol cans which are great.
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FP-10, I love it, and it works well in the cold - better than BF.
Grease - TW25B ... Suppressor Grease - PL-10, made by the same people who make FP-10. I don't use FP-10 as a solvent, I use a dedicated solvent (Butches Bore Shine or Sweets 7.62) I do use a lot of Hoppe's #9 because I have many gallons of it bought before they switched formulas and lost the tric., primarily for parts washing and such. I recently tried Ballistol and can't STAND the smell - I'd rather huff BF or dirty socks. |
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Use FP10 cause it has no white polymer powder in it like other CLP's that just gunk things up. No clp is worth a shit for cleaning, I use dedicated cleaners for cleaning. Hoppes for general and Hoppes Benchrest/Butch's for the bbl.
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Thanks for the link. I will agree with his statement. It could be just to grade of paint used that seems to weaken when useing FP 10 . FP 10 is a great product.. I continue to use it with confidence. WarDawg |
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Hey WarDawg,
Just curious,did the paint come off in flakes or did it come off on a cloth when rubbed? Raymond |
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Is FP-10 good for lubing trigger/sear assemblies???
I've heard that WD-40 and BF CLP will gum up after time.... I've also heard that Ronson lighter fluid is used by benchrest shooter inside their actions....thin oily lubrication. thanks..... |
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Received my free sample from them yesterday in the mail. I'll be trying it out after I'm back from the range tomorrow. |
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My STI Edge loves FP-10. All my rifles run flawlessly on it. The only time I use lighter fluid is to flush out my Jewell trigger on the Model 70. The Jewell is a contained unit and you don't want oil in it.
Edited for spelling..... |
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I used FP-10 until I found out that Mobil 1 Synthetic does a better job (and it's cheaper). JMO
*hides from flames* |
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Where is a good place to purchase FP-10 online? My local stores don't have it. Preferably a ARFCOM supporter.
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Here ya go. www.bushmaster.com/shopping/gunsmith/fp-10.asp Raymond |
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You can also get it Midwayusa.com
4 oz. bottle New Aerosol FP-10 And if you are SERIOUS about the stuff: The Big Dog Gundraw BTW. I used it for all my firearms. I used to use the good 'ol hoppes kit. Now, I still us #9 for general solvent, Sweet's for copper, and the FP for lube. |
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djgolus, what do you think about the FP10?? Ordered a big bottle of it yet |
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I tried it on a new Vaquero, and it was rusting after a few weeks, will stick with Break Free which has never let me down.
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Id like to know too.Dont doubt it could happen though as nothing is perfect all the time.Break Free aint either.
Ive been going six months on my weapons that are stored in un unsealed lockers for almost two years now with nothing but a light coat of FP-10...that includes my S&W blued guns,Ruger convertibles,Mausers,MN's,Remingtons etc.etc.etc..Have not seen a spec of rust even here in the humid south,living in a drafty and damp 150 year old house.But I always wipe my weapons down after handling before they are placed in the lockers.I dont like sweaty old rusty finger prints on my blued guns. Raymond |
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