No, I'm not talking about my suit.  I use FP-10 CLP on my AR, and with the exception of the high stress areas like the cam pin and bolt carrier rails, I typically wipe off most of the CLP so that there is only a very fine coating.  In the past, I usually cleaned my AR with rags, patches, toothbrushes, etc., coated with CLP.

I cleaned it last night after a shooting match and I noticed that most of the fouling was dry and soot-like.  So I used a dry rag to wipe out the upper receiver.  I then took the bolt assembly apart and wiped it down with a dry rag also.  After this, I reapplied the CLP sparingly with a toothbrush on the areas that I had wiped clean.  I picked up very little additional fouling.  I then wiped off the excess CLP with another dry rag and put her back together.  This cut my cleaning time in half.  

By wiping away most of the fouling while it is still dry I found the cleaning to go much faster.  I used to use Breakfree CLP and the fouling that resulted in the receiver and bolt assembly was wet and looked like used motor oil.  I used to use break cleaner to clean it all out, but then I had to re-apply CLP to everything.  With FP-10 and some "dry cleaning", my clean up chore is going much quicker now.  

I also think the weapon is more reliable running mostly dry.  The bolt carrier rails and cam pin get a touch of grease, the bolt gets a little extra CLP, but everything else has just a very light coat of CLP to prevent rust.  Most lube applied to the bolt just gets blown off after a couple of rounds anyway.  Most of the bolt carrier doesn't touch the receiver so there is no point in soaking it in CLP and making it a dust magnet.  

I just started doing the same thing, plus I don't get oil splattering all over the first few shots.

The more I clean my Bushy the less time it takes me. But then again as it's getting some wear marks on it, I know where it needs to be lubed and where it does not.

I use much less CLP that I did when I first got it. That in and of itself makes cleanup easier.