Pick your poison, but I go with peel type washer since the can be reused.  Hence, about every 6K'ish rounds, I pull the FS's so I can get the crowns fully detailed cleaned.
Note, if on a NM rig, I just face the back of the FS so I can time it out that way instead.  The reason behind this, the FS is going to be pulled every 1K of rounds or so to get the recessed crown detail cleaned (we are talking rifles in the sub-MOA,and the crowns need to be fouling less to maintain this).

On the peel washers, just peel off layers until you can get the FS to hand tighten to about 10:45, then wrench the FS to the 12:00 position.


With the crush washer, hand tighten the FS, then wrench to 12:00, since the crush washer is going to retain the needed tension as it being crushed that one time (read do not over index and try to come back, and don't try to go another wind after you hit 12:00 since you may run out of crushability on the washer instead.

Once time use.  As the FS is being tightened, the washer deforms/flatten out to maintain a constant torque value while it still have some curvature to it , and will not spring back to it old shape when the FS is removed again.


Its not the same at a true belleville washer, being that the torque value of the crush washer being crushed is much higher since it a deformation of the metal as it collapses through compression , instead of a  lighter true re-spring value of belleville type spring designed.

You can use either type of washer.  The crush washer will compress as you tighten the flash hider or compensator to obtain the desired index.  The peel washers as nice, as they give you the option of adding or taking away layers to obtain proper index, as each peeled layer is approximately 10=degrees.  The crush washer is not a Belleville washer.

CY6
Greg Sullivan "Sully"
SLR15 Rifles
TheDefensiveEdge.com
(763) 712-0123

?????

Does this not just defeat the purpose of the crush washer?