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Posted: 9/2/2010 6:35:53 PM EDT
[#1]
Blue Loctite on the lower receiver threads. It is a bugger to undo later though - you need heat because of the large thread area. Use the least LocTite you can get away with. Also, cinche the castle nut down tight and then stake it so it does not come loose again.
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Posted: 9/2/2010 6:43:27 PM EDT
[#2]
Right now it is rotating about 15 degrees to the right. Would locktite hold that? How do you stake the castle nut?
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Posted: 9/2/2010 7:06:03 PM EDT
[#3]
Mmmmmmmmm steeeaaakkkk.....ahhhhh
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Posted: 9/2/2010 8:56:56 PM EDT
[#4]
A simular thing happened to me. I got a magpul trigger guard. While punching out the roll pin it was stripping the buffer tube threading. When I finished the stock was about two inches to the left. I twisted the tube back in place. I ended up having to get a new tube. At least the lower threading wasn't messed up.
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Posted: 9/2/2010 10:16:58 PM EDT
[#5]
After reading this,I checked mine and noticed that it rotated about 5-10deg after firing a couple hundred rds. I just now re+tightened it but I've never staked the castle nut because I was afraid of cracking the receiver.
How do you guys support the lower for the stake job? And what type/size punch? Thanks. |
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Posted: 9/3/2010 2:43:14 PM EDT
[#6]
You cannot crack the receiver by staking. The worst you could do is destroy the extension/buffer tube. You either blue locktite or stake it. I do both because like you I learned the hard way.
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Posted: 9/4/2010 4:05:16 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
A simular thing happened to me. I got a magpul trigger guard. While punching out the roll pin it was stripping the buffer tube threading. When I finished the stock was about two inches to the left. I twisted the tube back in place. I ended up having to get a new tube. At least the lower threading wasn't messed up. You were installing a trigger guard and f'up your buffer tube threads? how in the world did you accomplish that? 
Quoted:
After reading this,I checked mine and noticed that it rotated about 5-10deg after firing a couple hundred rds. I just now re+tightened it but I've never staked the castle nut because I was afraid of cracking the receiver. How do you guys support the lower for the stake job? And what type/size punch? Thanks. You really should have the lower locked into a lower receiver block and punch size I have no idea ... a little smaller than the notch I guess. I have never staked or loc-tited mine (just tightened them really good) and I've never had a problem |
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Posted: 9/5/2010 6:47:58 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
I pulled out my AR today and noticed that my stock was loose. I think this might have happened when I installed a new flash hider a few days ago and unknowingly put pressure in one direction on the stock when I was tightening the new flash hider. I guess I will have to replace the tube??? It basically looks like the threads were ground down where the small rectangle anti rotation part goes. Is there a simplier fix other than buying a new reciever tube? You should be using barrel blocks in a vice to remove or install a FS or similar device. |
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Posted: 9/10/2010 10:21:35 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
I pulled out my AR today and noticed that my stock was loose. I think this might have happened when I installed a new flash hider a few days ago and unknowingly put pressure in one direction on the stock when I was tightening the new flash hider. Quoted:
A simular thing happened to me. I got a magpul trigger guard. While punching out the roll pin it was stripping the buffer tube threading.  out of
If you are not sure what you are doing before starting a project read the tutorials here: (tacked at the top of the Build It Yourself Forum) http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782, or take it to a competent gunsmith to do the work for you. To the OP, I'd just replace the receiver extension & mark it as a learning experience instead of "rigging" it to fix it. |
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Posted: 9/10/2010 10:51:26 AM EDT
[#10]
I use a spring center punch to stake my castle nut. Didn't need a vice or block.
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